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10-12-2009, 02:42 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Sleek!
The taillight cups look great. I read back in this thread, so I understand that you glassed them in without the usual riveted rims - can you tell how you went about that?
Did you glass them in from inside and then grind the rims off? Take them off and then..
Also, just curious: Is the belly band going back on? Or are you going "sleek" in that area too?
Thanks,
Raya
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10-12-2009, 06:36 PM
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#62
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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I cut the flanges off the light cups and clamped them in place. I learned fiberglassing as I went and this was one of the most pain in the butt things I did.....but I wanted the look....and I'm pleased. The belly band is gonna go back on. I like the fact that it sticks out at the widest point of the body and acts like a buffer so the body won't get scratched......
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10-12-2009, 06:41 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Thanks, Scott!
I like the belly band on the Boler/clones too. I like the "ring of Saturn" thing it has going (although it does tend to collect dirt and whatnot on the top flange). They look great polished up, I think
Your taillights look great! I had thought if I ever painted that I would drill out the rivets, fill the holes, and glass the lights in, but I hadn't thought about eliminating the flange for a smoother look, so that intrigued me.
Raya
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10-12-2009, 06:41 PM
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#64
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Nice matching with your towing vehicle. BTW what is the towing capacity of the Scion?
Can't wait to see more pics.
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The Scion(according to the manual) has NO towing capacity...... However, the engine is larger than the old style "boxy" model and in my opinion is plenty powerful. If I hit any serious hills or mountains, I'll be taking it easy for sure.......
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10-12-2009, 10:33 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,555
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It's not just a matter of engine size, but wheel base, too. A trailer is much more likely to do the steering for you when you have a short wheel base or not enough weight over the front wheels to counteract the lever-action of the trailer as it tilts forward and downward on the hitch when you brake or the trailer bounces.
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10-13-2009, 01:51 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1984
Posts: 2,938
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When we repainted our Boler, I had the belly band off as well. The flange measured any where's from 5/8" to 1 1/2" so I marked it with a spacer and a pencil and ground it back to a common width. When I reinstalled the band I had to cut it shorter by about 1 1/2" because of the smaller sizing. I then polished the metal band with aluminum mag and wheel cleaner. Sure made a difference...... at least in my minds eye.
Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a very nice job. You're going to get a lot of looks when you go camping.
Jim
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10-15-2009, 08:33 AM
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#67
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Member
Trailer: 1972 13 ft Boler American
Posts: 86
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I love the XB & Boler look....
wish my 72 looked that good!!
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10-15-2009, 08:39 AM
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#68
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Member
Trailer: 1972 13 ft Boler American
Posts: 86
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Sorry - forgot most recent photos of mine
Still need some shots of completed outside - - and inside with my curtains and new front cushions....
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10-17-2009, 04:26 PM
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#69
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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Cut the holes in the benches for access. I ordered 4 interior window trim rings which had the correct profile
to rest panels in. The cover panels are 1/2 inch StarBoard. Oh, and, the LEDs went on today!
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10-17-2009, 04:55 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300
Posts: 319
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Brian, One sugestion:
Take a die grinder and cut the body back a little more from around the frame openings front and back. There is some different colored edge welting that you cane put on after to finish them off.
The reason being, over the years most or the frame cracks and breaks I have seen tend occur just behind the body opening. What happens is mud and water build up in there and doesn't get enough expose to air circulation. It is a spot most people don't think to hose out good after they have been on a muddy road.
You are doing a first class job on your rebuild.
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04-15-2010, 05:41 PM
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#71
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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Just checking in with my limited progress as of late. The windows are all in and I installed the door latch this evening.
I had the front and rear plexi windows put in by a local auto glazier $50.00 well spent as far as I'm concerned.
Next, I need to get a table in and a front backrest/top bunk built. Then I call the upolsterer. I'm not looking foward to
that bill.
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04-15-2010, 09:10 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Oh, and, the LEDs went on today!
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Brian, I was really busy with work when you posted your tail lights, nice job. I'd like to do the same.
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04-25-2010, 09:34 PM
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#73
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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Just a few little things that have been crossed off the list......
I just had to throw up a pic of my baby on the day I started.........
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04-26-2010, 11:47 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Personalized trailer plates in NY?
Way to go!!!
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04-28-2010, 03:38 PM
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#75
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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More pics!!! I'm so excited.......It's finally (after two years) out of my garage! The new wheels went on today and it won't be fitting through
the door anymore. I sure do hope there are no leaks. I'll find out next time it rains.
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04-28-2010, 03:57 PM
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#76
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Senior Member
Trailer: 16 ft U-Haul VT
Posts: 2,867
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Looks really sharp!
CindyL
__________________
1988 Bigfoot Silver Cloud, "The Egg Carton"
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04-28-2010, 04:31 PM
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#77
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1300 1973
Posts: 114
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Did you do anything to prevent spider web cracks to appear again before repainting ?
__________________
Boler 1300 1973
Jeep Wrangler 2dr 2012
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04-28-2010, 05:58 PM
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#78
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Member
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Posts: 61
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A good deal of the small cracks were ground out and filled in. There are a few I missed. Oh, well.... In fact, every penetration through the hull was covered over
(water inlets, heater vent, electrical, spare tire mounts, and EVERY DAMNED rivet hole) except the windows.......This way I can start and build as if it were new.
I need to get a few things done around the house and yard, then I'll begin the interior part of this project.
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04-28-2010, 11:26 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Quote:
In fact, every penetration through the hull was covered over
(water inlets, heater vent, electrical, spare tire mounts, and EVERY DAMNED rivet hole) except the windows.......This way I can start and build as if it were new.
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Rather than make new rivet holes for the cabinetry, you might want to consider tabbing it in (with fiberglass). That actually adds strength over rivets (not that the rivets aren't adequate) and .... no holes!
Rivets are much faster and easier, so they are well suited to a factory setting in making an affordable product. But on your own camper, where you are not trying to build 300 of them where shaving off a little time/skill is a big deal, a little extra time and effort could make it "better than new."
Raya
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04-29-2010, 05:45 AM
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#80
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Senior Member
Trailer: Cloud 13 ft and Compact Jr
Posts: 328
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Raya, I know you are a big fan or tabbing, and I know what you mean as far as technique generally. I am wondering if you know of videos or postings that descibes the process in detail?
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