Finally Starting The Rebuild !! - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-15-2010, 06:41 PM   #71
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Just checking in with my limited progress as of late. The windows are all in and I installed the door latch this evening.
I had the front and rear plexi windows put in by a local auto glazier $50.00 well spent as far as I'm concerned.
Next, I need to get a table in and a front backrest/top bunk built. Then I call the upolsterer. I'm not looking foward to
that bill.
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:10 PM   #72
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Oh, and, the LEDs went on today!
Brian, I was really busy with work when you posted your tail lights, nice job. I'd like to do the same.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:34 PM   #73
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Just a few little things that have been crossed off the list......

I just had to throw up a pic of my baby on the day I started.........
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Old 04-27-2010, 12:47 AM   #74
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Personalized trailer plates in NY?

Way to go!!!
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Old 04-28-2010, 04:38 PM   #75
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More pics!!! I'm so excited.......It's finally (after two years) out of my garage! The new wheels went on today and it won't be fitting through
the door anymore. I sure do hope there are no leaks. I'll find out next time it rains.
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Old 04-28-2010, 04:57 PM   #76
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Looks really sharp!

CindyL
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:31 PM   #77
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Did you do anything to prevent spider web cracks to appear again before repainting ?
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Old 04-28-2010, 06:58 PM   #78
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A good deal of the small cracks were ground out and filled in. There are a few I missed. Oh, well.... In fact, every penetration through the hull was covered over
(water inlets, heater vent, electrical, spare tire mounts, and EVERY DAMNED rivet hole) except the windows.......This way I can start and build as if it were new.
I need to get a few things done around the house and yard, then I'll begin the interior part of this project.
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:26 AM   #79
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In fact, every penetration through the hull was covered over
(water inlets, heater vent, electrical, spare tire mounts, and EVERY DAMNED rivet hole) except the windows.......This way I can start and build as if it were new.
Rather than make new rivet holes for the cabinetry, you might want to consider tabbing it in (with fiberglass). That actually adds strength over rivets (not that the rivets aren't adequate) and .... no holes!

Rivets are much faster and easier, so they are well suited to a factory setting in making an affordable product. But on your own camper, where you are not trying to build 300 of them where shaving off a little time/skill is a big deal, a little extra time and effort could make it "better than new."

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Old 04-29-2010, 06:45 AM   #80
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Raya, I know you are a big fan or tabbing, and I know what you mean as far as technique generally. I am wondering if you know of videos or postings that descibes the process in detail?
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Old 05-13-2010, 04:16 PM   #81
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I was thinking about "tabbing", but my interior walls are finished with rhino-liner. I was going to glass in some blocks before it was sprayed..........oh well.
The present plan is that all penetrations will be stainless nuts and bolts, neoprene washers in and out. I've done some through bolting so far with good, leak-proof results.

Today, I'm installing the side marker lights........I'm very pleased with the look.
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Old 05-13-2010, 05:38 PM   #82
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They are pretty nice and "retro" style
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:39 PM   #83
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More pics!!! I'm so excited.......It's finally (after two years) out of my garage! The new wheels went on today and it won't be fitting through
the door anymore. I sure do hope there are no leaks. I'll find out next time it rains.

Wow,
That is an envious Boler my friend.
Good work.
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:37 AM   #84
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I was thinking about "tabbing", but my interior walls are finished with rhino-liner. I was going to glass in some blocks before it was sprayed..........oh well.
The present plan is that all penetrations will be stainless nuts and bolts, [b]neoprene washers in and out. I've done some through bolting so far with good, leak-proof results.

Today, I'm installing the side marker lights........I'm very pleased with the look.
I did that by drilling out the holes and using 1/2-20 stainless hardware. For washers, I had a length of rubber compressed air line hose that is oil proof. I rammed a 1/4 inch wooden dowel in a ways, then cut off slices with a fine toothed blade on my band saw.

Then I used stainless steel washers over the rubber on each side that were specially prepared by making them slightly cone shaped. I did this by counter-sinking a small hole in a piece of hardwood, placing the flat washer over the counter-sink, then applying the rounded end of an old 1/2 inch socket extension and smashing the other end with a small sledge hammer.

This makes the flat washer into a reasonable facsimile of a Bellville washer which compresses the rubber inward when the hardware is tightened and also protects the rubber from harmful sunlight.

Just one of my tricks!
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