Floor help please - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-14-2015, 09:11 AM   #29
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Name: Stuart
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
Minnesota
Posts: 44
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pics of my fg-16 gut,rebuild

1974 Amerigo FG-16 "Alice" Gut & Re-Build

not all uploaded yet,takes forever ��...
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:23 PM   #30
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Name: Robert
Trailer: Casita
Minnesota
Posts: 13
Densilite source ??

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Originally Posted by Leonie Belcher View Post
Yup, the bump is part of the construction. I am going to make it a ramp because that will make the possibility of killing myself tripping less likely. I can still run lines under the ramp. I am also not putting in plywood but a material called densilite XP, it will never, ever, rot. Three sheets have given me enough to do the floor, the door side supports and all of the window supports. I have also just got the frame back from the welders. I had them weld in a crosspiece C channel that supports the floor from the door across. There was nothing there and the crosspieces are way too far apart IMO. I have also had them weld in a receiver where the coupler was. Now I can slide in and double pin a smaller receiver with the coupler welded on, and remove it and the chains when parked. I can also slide in a pin lock or two where the pins go. All GR III or better, so good and strong. To steal my trailer they are going to have to do some serious pre-planning. I am going to use neoprene cushioning on top of the frame because I had places where the FG skin was rubbed and damaged by the frame. Some of the hold-down tabs for the floor bolts were damaged or broken so I have new heavier duty brackets welded in. The axle is waiting to be installed as soon as the rain lets up and I have a chance to degrease and POR15 the frame. The bumper, tongue and around the wheels will be the only place I need to topcoat the POR 15 because it is not UV stable. I will put 1/2" board insulation under the floor with a nylon support ring at each elevator bolt so the insulation is not crushed by my enthusiastic tightening of elevator bolts. The back compartments under the dinette benches will be coated with truck bed coating then painted white so they will not be black holes. I have already riveted and FG'ed the belly band inside the trailer. I am installing cedar and then encasing that in FG so if a window does leak it will not soak in to wood and rot it. It is only really there for supporting the outside trim, stapling wire to and the board that supports the spare tire. It also had the support for the fridge attached. I am looking forward to the day me and my 4 friends, jack, jack, jack and jack can get the shell back on.

Leonie Belcher -- Where did you locate a supplier of Densilite XP ??
I am restoring the floor of my 13 ft Casita -- This sounds like a better solution than the 3/4 inch plywood I have been using !!
rdwatson (in Stillwater, MN)
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Old 10-18-2015, 07:23 PM   #31
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Name: Stuart
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
Minnesota
Posts: 44
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removable coupler

Hi Lonnie!
I have the original hitch coupler assembly on my '74 FG-16 which seems really hokey and unsafe as it cannot be locked in place. I know it should be replaced and really like the idea of a receiver style setup in the trailer side. Do you have any pics of it and was it expensive to have done?
Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:40 PM   #32
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Name: Robert
Trailer: Casita
Minnesota
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Question Densilite source ??

Ronnie -- I live in Minnesota and cannot locate a supplier of DENSILITE which seems to be preferred solution over the 3/4 inch plywood I have been using to restore the floor in my 13 ft Casaita.
Thank you. Bob W b-bengineering.com
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:02 AM   #33
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Name: Leonie
Trailer: boler,Amerigo,Airstream,Thomson
Ontario
Posts: 38
Densilite XP

We got very lucky, Plasti Span is the manufacturer and they are near Hamilton Ontario, they happened to have some seconds for 1/2 price and a company that does plastic forming here in Ottawa was making an order so we had it shipped with theirs and it only cost $75. I ordered enough for the Amerigo and the Airstream. Whoo-hoo. That said there are numerous comparables available in the US. A good place to start looking is FG boat manufacturers. Google extruded PVC composite sheets (or boards). There are many options, Nyloboard, Polyboard, Puckboard, Thermolite. Trucking companies also use composite PVC to floor and wall the trucks, dairy farmers also use it to wall super clean dairy barns. Good luck.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:22 AM   #34
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Name: Leonie
Trailer: boler,Amerigo,Airstream,Thomson
Ontario
Posts: 38
Coupler mod.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Stu View Post
Hi Lonnie!
I have the original hitch coupler assembly on my '74 FG-16 which seems really hokey and unsafe as it cannot be locked in place. I know it should be replaced and really like the idea of a receiver style setup in the trailer side. Do you have any pics of it and was it expensive to have done?
Thanks!
We had the welder unbolt the swingy coupler that worked the surge brakes and weld in a large receiver. He drilled holes to line up with the holes existing for the original bolts. He then welded the coupler to another 2"sq. receiver bar which slides in and is secured by 2 x1/2 inch implement pins. It is all Grd III or better. I am not sure how much it actually cost since we got lots of stuff done to the frame which cost a total of $500.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:28 AM   #35
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Name: Leonie
Trailer: boler,Amerigo,Airstream,Thomson
Ontario
Posts: 38
Pics

Coupler
Attached Thumbnails
IMGP0130.jpg   IMGP0132.jpg  

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Old 10-20-2015, 09:03 AM   #36
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
North Carolina
Posts: 201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Stu View Post
Hi Lonnie!
I have the original hitch coupler assembly on my '74 FG-16 which seems really hokey and unsafe as it cannot be locked in place. I know it should be replaced and really like the idea of a receiver style setup in the trailer side. Do you have any pics of it and was it expensive to have done?
Thanks!
Stu, did you catch this thread? Replacing attwood coupler - diy

It looks like the repair kit comes with an upgraded locking coupler. I need to do the same with mine as the non locking coupler is a little scary feeling to tow with. I'd wrap 12 gauge single strand wire around my non locking one as a safety but that gets old after a while.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:14 AM   #37
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Washington
Posts: 1,513
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Leonie Belcher,
Your work is inspiring...right now we have a completely gutted shell, still on the frame, waiting for a rigger to come help us get it off to take the frame in for checking over.
How's your refit of the Amerigo going? The Galileo? Love that idea, still searching for our "vision."
How are you coming with the question of what interior wall boards / material to use? We looked at the textured FRP white panels, they're quite nice but not sure they'd be strong enough...?
We cannot find "luan" ply; everything is thinner "hardboard" (cardboard-type stuff) or 1/4" ply, heavier than what came out.


Thanks, enjoying your photos and narrative very much.


Kai in Seattle
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Old 10-28-2015, 06:07 PM   #38
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Name: Doug
Trailer: Scamp 16, 1983
Maryland
Posts: 17
Don't know if its too late, but I used an angle grinder with a general purpose wheel to cut the FG flange. I pulled the rotted floor sections first and trimmed the upper and lower FG "flanges" off. It was a mistake to remove the lower flange though! I was worried that the grinder would be too aggressive and grind through the shell on my Scamp 16, but found it quite easy to manage in practice. If I had to do it again (and I probably will for some front floor sections!) Ill only grind off the top flange. Re-taping the bottom flange, i.e. fiberglassing UP really sucked!
Thanks
Doug
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Old 10-28-2015, 06:36 PM   #39
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
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Thanks, not too late, Paul said he was thinking that very thing, that fiberglassing UP would be a real trick. Am glad for your advice.
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