fools rush in........1971 boler 1300 reno - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:05 AM   #21
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Name: hue
Trailer: 1971 boler owner
Saskatchewan
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cindy I would love to know how to turn cabenets into shaker style, and i do not think i am alone. I think Shaker architecture and furnature is absolutely stunning.

The tiki torch support is Brilliant I am glad you mentionrd it Donna. I was in boston pizza the other day and was thinking of how to adapt their zig zag coat hook/stand for a support. It has kind of a cool Dr suss look that would go with the interior I am planning.

I ll watch for the shaker post,
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:01 AM   #22
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Bear in mind, these are our kitchen cabinets, not our camper cabinets. They are Eurostyle with an ugly and dangerous oak pull at the bottom. Kevin used the table saw to take that off and sanded it down. Then the melamine was sanded down and filled with Bondo. An edging made of thin ash veneer (Hardwood trim, woodworking hand tools, and more - Constantines.com - 1/16" Thick Veneers) was cut into almost 3 inch strips. Of course for camper cabinets, it would need to be thinner, just like it will need to be when we do the drawers in the kitchen. Then we glued them onto the holes, sanded it down a final time and painted it with primer. We are deciding on the color right now. The image is a before and after minus the final paint. This is primed.

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Old 05-31-2012, 02:34 AM   #23
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brilliant Cindy, That is very cool. I might try that on my kitchen at home.
it is scheduled for a rehab in the next year or two.

I wish I had seen it before I did my boler cupboards. I kinda went all over the place and have a few of my cupboards done already even though I did not finish the furniture yet. I'll try to take a pic and post them in the next day or so.

A while back I got the foam cut for the cushions. I got lucky and got some leftover pieces that worked on sale, I did have to get the two largest cushions cut custom which pushed the price up. It is very good quality foam and it ran me a little under two hundred.

A side note they cut the larger cushions too short but fixed them for free as i gave them the specs on paper. What they did was glue a piece of foam on to the foam that was short cut. It worked so good that if I was doing it again I would go through the leftover cpieces and get what I needec and some foam cement. A lot cheaper if you are on a tight budget. Also I saw some seals and edging that will work for the door there. So through in upholstery shops as another place to find obscure seals to fit a boler, ( even had sex bolts too)

Then I asked my mom to sew the covers, and she was able to. I am very thankful she could help my out. The covers are charcoal because i wanted a colour that was a little muted as I am going top paint the furniture red.

Anyway I have attached some photos as well as a photo of my princess auto doggydish bowl turned sink. I think it is going to turn out pretty good,

h
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:14 AM   #24
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Wow, rocks in the cupboard. Reminds me of the Long, long trailer.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:02 AM   #25
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Wow, rocks in the cupboard. Reminds me of the Long, long trailer.
Boy did we just date ourselves or what?

It's funny when I see the new shiny sink set in the under construction cabinet I don't feel so weird. There is just something encouraging about seeing one part of our "vison" for the future in place.

Can't wait to see the finished job, looks really neat so far.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:21 PM   #26
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Looking good so far Hue. Just a couple questions i have. First, i see your from the great province of saskatchewan and so im i. so i was wondering what place you got your fantastic fan from you had said locally. Second were did you get the cushions cut you had also said they had trim for the door and stuff were is that? Third and this is quite important part to me is the materials you used in covering up the fridge hole. I see you used bondo and stuff but what else did you use.
Thanks.
looking forward to your reply.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:45 PM   #27
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everything is looking wonderful, hue!!!! keep adding photo updates...i'm following right along.
you are doing a great job.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:01 PM   #28
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Name: hue
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I got the Fantastic Fan from the RV Superstore in Saskatoon, down the street from Wholesale Sports. They had a lot of stuff that I found handy like Butyl Tape, pedestal tables legs, all kinds of shiny pretty things. I liked them because they had a lot of their inventory on shelves, so I could walk around and get ideas.

Century Textile is where I picked up the foam and is where I saw the trim, they are located on Ave C.

I decided to change the bunks in the front to a dinette which could convert into a single bed. Not being the best of craftsmen I decide to try to use some of the fibre glass front bench as part of the dinette seats. On one side I am putting a portapody hidden under a seat. The other side will be a built in cooler with top access through the seat which will run through into the lower kitchen cabinet where the fridge used to be where there will be additional access through the top side.

So with all this major modification I had parts of the old bench sheet left. Whenever I had a need for a flat or curved piece of Fibreglass I would cut a piece and fibre glass it in place. This was important for me because I am better at fixing things that creating them from scratch.

So what you see is a piece of the bench fibreglassed into the opening, and then I bondo’d it until it was smooth. My thought was to save some time and effort by taking advantage of the already flat finished surface. I am not sure if it worked to my favour or not. I also cut some triangle shapes and tabbed them into the overhead cabinets as dividers to keep things from sliding from one end of the cupboard to the other. Definitely worked to my favour in the manufacturing process

Its a shame and no small irony that I am getting better at working with fibreglass, its likely that by the time I get half decent at it the trailer will be finished and I won’t have to fibreglass anything else. My altime favorite fibreglass is called Bondo Hair- kinda like bondo but with a lot of fibre in it . kind of goes on like stringy bondo but it is very very strong structurally. I’ve been using it like Ductape.

For the bench with the hidden toilet I used wood, but I want all the furniture to look like painted fibreglass. What I decided to do was to put a light coat of bondo over the wood, to fill all the grain. The jury is out until I paint them this coming week as to how well it worked. The cooler seat is a hybrid half fibreglass and half wood, again I want it to look like fibreglass.
h
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:21 PM   #29
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Name: hue
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I forgot to mention that I did some painting and installed the Fantastic fan. The photo of the fan does not have the trim on it yet, but I am waiting to address/create the wiring plan.

Apparently one can never have enough pretty shiny things and I just had a new light fixture added to the mix. I guess a good plan for me is a very fluid one.

Maybe someone could help me out. Someone here mentioned a souce where LED lights where available that would fit into a 120V socket ? It would save me Macgyvering and canabolizing a LED flashlight ???

anyway more to come
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:32 PM   #30
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Thanks for the great informtion Hue. Im wondering how i could best go about covering up the furnace hole im my boler as i dont use a furnace in it anymore. And since im painting and redoing the outside i would like to cover that up.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:33 PM   #31
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Also forgot to mension great pictures and following your thread right along.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:08 PM   #32
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Name: hue
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I can only offer suggestions from my personal experience, but maybe that is good because niether you nor I will likely learn to fibreglass like a jouneyman.

The two ways I tried was

A) tape a flat peice of something tightly against the outsid surface of the hole you want to cover. It should be firm because it is what will hold your new fibreglassing in line with the outside surface, and if it bends out when you put the glass in then you will have a lot of resurfaceing and bondo work. Tried that.... no fun

if the taped surface stays flush with the outside I would start laying fiberglass from the inside in reverse order. A layer of light bondo, then pour a little epoxy down to hold the next layer of glass against the bondo, then if you need stuctireal strength I would slapp on some of that magic Hair Bondo. As far as timing goes I would let each layer start to set before putting the next layer down. Tried that more fun....

C) cut a piece of fibreglass canabalized from some where else, tape it in place and fibreglass the seam , the a layer of finreglass mat. After it sets you can bondo the other side where it needs it. If things go right you moxt of the finishing work shouod be along the seams tried that too

I have attached some photos of what I did with my firnace holes left when I removed the furnace, on the outside wall of the trailer I employed option B, and on the inside back dinette seats I changed the hole to meet my requirements for a long opening. I chose option A for that one.

Fibreglassing gets much better when you stop letting it push you around. Like everything often the only thing resting between success and failure is confidence.

h
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100_0936.jpg   Atwood HydroflameII series.jpg  

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Old 06-04-2012, 07:16 AM   #33
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You could also make a piece of fiberglass on a flat surface outside the trailer to use as a patch.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:34 AM   #34
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What is the model of your furnace. I have a 1980 scamp and my furnace is under my sink (ok "was" under my sink, PO took it out). I like the location under the dinette. Thinking this might be a different model.

Thanks for the help.

PS do you like the locaiton, or is that why you are patching the hole, a no bueno location.

Thanks again. . cheers
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:20 PM   #35
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I like the location under the dinette.
Remember, if under the dinette and you have the bed set up, not only will the heat be trapped under there, but you'll be restricted in using the space for storage. Certainly wouldn't want to risk a fire.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:26 PM   #36
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I thought about that. Was wondering about maybe the Angled part between the dinette and the sink. Just trying all angels Thanks for the thoughts on that
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:50 PM   #37
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Was wondering about maybe the Angled part between the dinette and the sink.
That might work, if you never, EVER had bedding hang down over the furnace grill. Stay safe
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:23 PM   #38
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very helpful thanks alot hue.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:49 AM   #39
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Name: hue
Trailer: 1971 boler owner
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the furnace was an Atwood Hydroflame II 8012, put in by the PO. I tested it before I removed it it toasted up the place quick.

It was a forced air Furnace, and it was way too much furnace for such a little trailer. It also would have drawn too much power as I only boondock with it and have a tight energy budget.

If I thought I needed some heat I would try a wave 3 heater -very
efficient and no electric draw

That said it was a great furnace, and it basicall vented strait out the outside wall. If I had kept it I would have moved it as its location was pretty dangerous for reasons Donna previously stated. It would fit- work excellent and be very safe vented out the the front of the trailer under a dinette seat or it might fit with a little mod under the sink.

h
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:40 PM   #40
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Name: Jason
Trailer: 75 boler
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so here an interpertation of your post hue and roys. I dont have any pieces of extra fiberglass, it would be ideal to cut a piece from the benches or cupboard or something right(i dont really want to do that). so this is what im going to do make a fiberglass patch and patch from the inside of the boler. what would be the next best thing to use as a patch just fiberglass mat or should i use something more structural. this thing is the only thing that i dont know what to do about it.
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