Frame-off Resto Mod - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-12-2013, 09:19 PM   #1
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Name: Trevor
Trailer: 1977 13' Scamp
Arizona
Posts: 8
Frame-off Resto Mod

Got the body off the frame of my '77 13' Scamp and have it in the axle shop. Couple of questions:

1. I have seen a thread (or two) in here about tire/ wheel, hub, axle combinations and calculations with trick diagrams and pictures. Can anyone point me to them? I cannot seem to locate them.

2. I am going to a Flexride trailing configuration with the new axle going under the floor pan instead of behind. The frame is in decent shape and was just sandblasted, but now the already thin tube steel seems even flimsier. Has anyone done any kind of stiffening, shoring, or otherwise to their frame? I seem to recall seeing some posts related to this sort of thing as well. Since the frame is off this an excellent opportunity to do something about this.

Will try to get a resto thread going in the next couple weeks with pics and plans, but for now it's all over the place. Thanks for any help.

Trevor
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:43 AM   #2
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Name: Ian
Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
Alberta
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Check all welds carefully for cracks, check the left (drivers side) frame rail as it has a tendency to bend right behind the axle if the body bolt become loose, the rocking of the body places enough force to bend the left frame rail and often crack or break the right frame rail just in front of the entry step or at the tongue connection.

Rather than beef up my frame, original frame was 1.5x3 0.0625 or 16 ga rectangular tube, which I believe would have taken more time and resulted in a still weak and poorly designed frame I built one designed for the Flexi-Ride axle
Link: details on the frame I built
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:28 PM   #3
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Name: Trevor
Trailer: 1977 13' Scamp
Arizona
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Your's was the post I was recalling. Thanks for the reply. So, I wish I could build a beautiful frame like yours, but cost overruns are already starting to take shape. What I was thinking was some kind of channel over the top of the rails, welded to the sidewall of the tube steel to stiffen critical areas. Does this seem like it would do anything? I am not to worried about adding a little weight, I just don't want the frame to taco if I take a big bump or otherwise. I also notice that your frame has a diagonal brace which I imagine helps with the torsional rotation of the frame as the body rolls. I will have to incorporate something like this in my design as well. Thanks again!
Trevor
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:51 PM   #4
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Name: Ian
Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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One option would be to stitch weld 1.5"x1.5" angle iron to the top of the frame. This would strengthen the main frame rails and add additional material thickness to secure the body to.

Pay special attention to the stepped frame and step area on the right side. Add gusseting and some additional box channel under the step to support the right frame. This is the weakest poiny weith the highest stresses. With using the Flexi-ride in a trailing arm configuration set it at a 10 deg up-angle it will increase the ride height by about 1.5" but allow for considerable strengthening of that rail
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:44 PM   #5
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Name: Trevor
Trailer: 1977 13' Scamp
Arizona
Posts: 8
I was just drawing up something like 2-1/2x1-1/2 angle iron to 'box' out the inner edges of the frame. Diagonal bracing and 'gusseting' as you have suggested I think would do the trick and wouldn't be too difficult or expensive.
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