Furrion 30 amp power inlet - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-12-2016, 03:40 PM   #1
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Name: Wendy Lee
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Furrion 30 amp power inlet

Hello Friends.

I'm tired of the 30 amp power cord getting clustered under the bench when I hook up. Thinking of buying the round 30 amp power inlet by Furrion that comes with the power smart led light. Just a few questions:

I'm sure holes won't line up. Would JB epoxy water weld putty be ok to fill with or a recommendation for other product?

Fasteners? Rivets or SS machine screws and nylon nuts or?

This comes with a gasket, believe size of hole it fits is 2 3/4" anything else I'll need for install? Other than a new detachable 30 amp cord?

Any recommendations for the power cord? Lots of brands out there...
I appreciate your help!

Wendy

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Old 05-12-2016, 03:48 PM   #2
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http://furrion.com/product/power-inl...d-round-white/

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Old 05-12-2016, 04:11 PM   #3
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I have used Marinco 30 Amp twist-Lock cords and fittings for over 40 years, (mainly on my boats, but I also converted my shore power entrance on my trailer to one as well.) As to your mounting of it, you didn't say where you wanted to do your installation. A picture wouldn't hurt either to see what you are trying to cover up with the JB Weld.

As an aside, I drilled a new mounting hole to fit the Marinco shore power connection that I installed next to the original power cord storage hatch. Not that it is necessary, but I also replaced that hatch with a larger one for better access. Those little hatches are not very user friendly to work in.
Attached Thumbnails
New Electrical Hatch1.JPG   New Electrical Hatch2.JPG  

New Electrical Hatch3.JPG  
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Old 05-12-2016, 04:20 PM   #4
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Hi Greg,
Thank you for writing. In water weld is to cover river holes left from old scamp cord inlet. I'm sure new power inlet holes won't line up.

I don't have a storage hatch in my scamp. Just a plastic cord hole cover that I want to remove and replace with the furrion.

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Old 05-12-2016, 07:05 PM   #5
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I see that Marino and furrion make conversion kits now upon further research. Maybe that's what I need then you get a backing plate and other stuff

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Old 05-12-2016, 09:14 PM   #6
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I think we used the Marinco.
The exterior connection is round and the same size as the old pull-out plastic cord opening.
On Scamp Owners International, I saw articles on "sealing up the mouse hole". ☺

Good luck!

Ray

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Old 05-13-2016, 05:04 AM   #7
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Thank you Ray! You and another member pointed me toward a thread on SOI and it has been most helpful. I do feel now that the marinco would be best for me. Actually furrion has discontinued their kit, although you can still find it for sale. Only bad review I read on marinco is one person felt the plastic screw on part could be easily cross threaded. But to me that's just taking care. Just like nylon plug for my water heater. Start backward turn to catch and then go easy.

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Old 05-13-2016, 07:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
...Only bad review I read on marinco is one person felt the plastic screw on part could be easily cross threaded. But to me that's just taking care. ....
I have the Furrion and it feels like it will cross-thread, so I would call that criticism a wash.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:11 AM   #9
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I had the plastic Furrion inlet like in Greg's pic's, but replaced with this (Amazon):


Furrion F30INS-SS Stainless 30 Amp Marine/RV Inlet
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:07 PM   #10
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Sorry, but mine is a Marinco power inlet, not a Furrion.
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:53 AM   #11
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Hi Greg,

I see the marinco kit has what looks like a metal junction box. Would I put this on inside wall of scamp as extra support for FG? Further would you recommend I use rivets as scamp does for original mouse hole or SS machine screws and nylon nuts?

Wendy

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Old 05-14-2016, 10:35 AM   #12
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Another alternative might be one of those 5x5 inch fence post / railing sleeves many people attach either to the bumper or to the frame underneath. My shore power cord goes now through the floor into the sleeve and comes out of its end when needed otherwise it lives inside of it, neatly folded and slipped in. That way it is still attached to the Scamp, but on the outside.

From pictures, I see that the 13' Scamps ride low and this may not work for you. Just an idea.
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Old 05-14-2016, 02:30 PM   #13
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Hi Paul,

Thank you for writing. The only way I would do that is attached to the bumper. Does your cord go through some type of collar in the floor? Like a plastic sleeve or something?
Assuming you cut the male plug off at first so the hole in the floor isn't quite so big? Then through either a hole stop the fence post or straight down the back end square hole of the tube?

I honestly an just tired of that cord getting so jumbled up in there. It always gets stuck on something. Highly annoying when packing up or unpacking!

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Old 05-15-2016, 07:29 AM   #14
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On second thought, it might work in your case. The power cord would come out of the floor of the Scamp as far back as possible, then a short distance to a hole in the 5x5 sleeve, which you tie to the bumper. This section is best protected by a piece of a garden hose or a piece of automotive rubber hose. Those holes are only needed to take the cord through, which is about 1/2 inch diameter, and get sealed with Lexel, or like. Don't cut of the connector end, rather disconnect it where it is wired to the converter and pay attention to how it is connected, then thread it through the sleeve, rubber hose, and the small holes and reconnect the way it was. Mark the points on the cord where to fold it, hold it together with a Velcro tie, slide it in, close the tube (sleeve), done.

I mentioned this before in one of my posts, I don't have pics, but if you want to explore this solution, I'll take some. The solutions with the Furrion socket and separate cord are elegant, but expensive, and you can still leave the cord behind by mistake. This solution saved me money for a couple of cases of beer, at least.
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