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01-05-2014, 07:18 AM
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#81
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martins HeirCon
Can someone please direct me to definitive info about the frame reinforcement recall? I see no cracks, but it looks like some beef in that bend area would be a good idea.
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It was a simple search "Trillium Recall" http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...00s-46068.html
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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01-05-2014, 08:38 AM
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#82
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Thank you, Donna.
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01-05-2014, 09:06 AM
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#83
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Thanks,Donna. I had seen the older of those threads, but not the newer somehow.
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01-05-2014, 08:12 PM
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#84
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Well, I got her lowered 2 more inches today. I think that's just about all I can do, since the axle tube is only 1.25" from the frame and floor.
After all that, I noticed the trailer had a distinct list to the left. I guess I never noticed with it up so high. Investigated the cause and found one of the shackle holes for the retrofitted leaf springs drilled .25" higher than the other. I'll compensate with one more spacer on the right side.
Decided on a full-length gusset to reinforce the spliced axle as well as to mount the swaybar end links.
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01-06-2014, 08:52 PM
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#85
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Tonight I got the axle fully mounted, and added the Acura Integra swaybar.
It may be TOO low, time will tell. It is a lot more resistant to body roll now though.
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01-07-2014, 09:04 AM
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#86
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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How much suspension travel do you figure you have?
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01-07-2014, 10:23 AM
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#87
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Well,with the current setup only 1.25". As stiff as those springs are, that may be enough. If not, then I'll at least know what NOT to do!
It will be fine for this 2,000 mile all paved jaunt to the Keys, maybe not for some of the boondocking I plan later.
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01-11-2014, 05:48 PM
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#88
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
Those look great, Glenn- I like painted wheels!
What if anything are you going to use for hub caps? I didn't want to have to remove a 'cap to access my Bearing Buddies, but did add some bling with a couple of polished aluminum beauty rings from my local junkyard.
Francesca
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Francesca, it's been awhile since you asked, and I didn't know until today! I went to a local wheel place and bought two stainless trim rings and some Ranger "dog dish" hubcabs. This Ranger clip retainer thingy mounts with original hardware
And then the center cap clips over it. Used a 2 1/8" holesaw on my drill press to bore a hole for the bearing buddy, and voila!
This is almost exactly the look I wanted. The only thing better would be a smooth-domed cap, but for $24 per wheel I can live with it. That's 24 including the wheel itself!
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01-12-2014, 03:55 PM
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#89
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Talk about value for your buck! SCORE!
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01-12-2014, 07:26 PM
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#90
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Well, I paid 16 for the bearing buddies, so I guess that makes it $32...
I'm having a little trouble with bearing adjustment. This axle only has one hole cross-drilled for a cotter pin, and the castellated nut has only 6 notches and a coarse thread. This leaves me choosing between too tight or too loose. I'll need to either add another hole 90 deg. from the existing one, or find a 12 point nut.
Any thoughts on that?
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01-12-2014, 11:08 PM
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#91
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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Sounds just like the bearing buddies on my tent trailer. Hope you get an answer. My answer was to take the trailer to a mechanic, and then sell it.
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01-13-2014, 08:36 AM
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#92
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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It's been at The Mechanic's house since last March, and still not fixed! ;-)
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01-18-2014, 10:46 PM
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#93
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Took her out for a test drive behind Fool's Gold
My wife spent today cleaning and painting inside while I worked on the 4Runner TV for our upcoming vacation trip. 5 weeks and counting!
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01-19-2014, 11:57 AM
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#94
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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use a washer as a spacer, you can get them in different thicknesses, find the thickness you need to get the right pressure on the nut.
Joe
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01-19-2014, 01:16 PM
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#95
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Thanks, Joe. I'll give that a look when I take the hubs back off to change over to marine blue grease.
Today I'm trying to repair/ replace copper LP lines. Years of road rash have left the soft tubing in pitted condition, even flattened in places
I'm thinking more extensive replacement is in order
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01-19-2014, 04:51 PM
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#96
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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Well, the hole got deeper! After looking closely at the fridge and its connections...
I decided to remove it and at least do some refurbishing.
Now I'm thinking about shopping for a new one.
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01-19-2014, 10:34 PM
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#97
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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What is the model of your fridge? The name plate might be found on the bottom of the door frame. Kinda looks like an RM36.
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01-20-2014, 04:20 AM
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#98
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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It says RM-24-TF. Dometic's site says the current replacement is RM2193. Does that sound about right? Do you know of other products/brands that fit or perform better?
Looks like the Dometic is roughly $600 shipped.
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01-20-2014, 10:26 AM
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#99
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Does the RM24 work? If so, then I would keep it. Clean out the propane lines. Spiders like to spin webs in propane lines. It has a small freezer, which a replacement would not likely have. I like ice cubes in my drink. Then I would start shopping for another RM24 that works.
The best test of functionality is to set it for AC operation, then plug it in. If it gets cold enough to freeze ice. Then the cooling unit works. Everything else is repairable.
I have two Trillium's with an RM211, and two with that have an RM36, and one that has a RM24. I also have two spare RM211's and two spare RM36's. The reason for two is, I have one to swap out, if one breaks, and one I call a bone yard unit. That is, one I take parts off, if I, or someone else, needs them. I have not yet acquired a spare RM24. Kinda running out of room to store fridges.
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01-20-2014, 10:48 AM
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#100
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Senior Member
Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
Posts: 451
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It does work on AC power. I haven't tested for ice making though. The door is missing from the freezer compartment anyway.
Along with that, the door doesn't seal well, the plastic liner is swollen and cracked, the steel cabinet is rusty and has been poorly rattlecanned black etc. I was just thinking it would be better overall to replace it... Expensive, though!
How are Norcold fridges? Any other brands to consider? Any suggestions on where to shop for best deals?
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