GA: Trillium 1300 DE-alteration - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-06-2014, 07:52 PM   #85
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Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
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Tonight I got the axle fully mounted, and added the Acura Integra swaybar.

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It may be TOO low, time will tell. It is a lot more resistant to body roll now though.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:04 AM   #86
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How much suspension travel do you figure you have?
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:23 AM   #87
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Well,with the current setup only 1.25". As stiff as those springs are, that may be enough. If not, then I'll at least know what NOT to do!
It will be fine for this 2,000 mile all paved jaunt to the Keys, maybe not for some of the boondocking I plan later.
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Old 01-11-2014, 04:48 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Those look great, Glenn- I like painted wheels!

What if anything are you going to use for hub caps? I didn't want to have to remove a 'cap to access my Bearing Buddies, but did add some bling with a couple of polished aluminum beauty rings from my local junkyard.

Francesca
Francesca, it's been awhile since you asked, and I didn't know until today! I went to a local wheel place and bought two stainless trim rings and some Ranger "dog dish" hubcabs. This Ranger clip retainer thingy mounts with original hardware

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And then the center cap clips over it. Used a 2 1/8" holesaw on my drill press to bore a hole for the bearing buddy, and voila!

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This is almost exactly the look I wanted. The only thing better would be a smooth-domed cap, but for $24 per wheel I can live with it. That's 24 including the wheel itself!
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:55 PM   #89
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Talk about value for your buck! SCORE!
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:26 PM   #90
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Well, I paid 16 for the bearing buddies, so I guess that makes it $32...

I'm having a little trouble with bearing adjustment. This axle only has one hole cross-drilled for a cotter pin, and the castellated nut has only 6 notches and a coarse thread. This leaves me choosing between too tight or too loose. I'll need to either add another hole 90 deg. from the existing one, or find a 12 point nut.

Any thoughts on that?
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:08 PM   #91
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Sounds just like the bearing buddies on my tent trailer. Hope you get an answer. My answer was to take the trailer to a mechanic, and then sell it.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:36 AM   #92
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It's been at The Mechanic's house since last March, and still not fixed! ;-)
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:46 PM   #93
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Took her out for a test drive behind Fool's GoldClick image for larger version

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My wife spent today cleaning and painting inside while I worked on the 4Runner TV for our upcoming vacation trip. 5 weeks and counting!
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:57 AM   #94
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use a washer as a spacer, you can get them in different thicknesses, find the thickness you need to get the right pressure on the nut.

Joe
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Old 01-19-2014, 12:16 PM   #95
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Thanks, Joe. I'll give that a look when I take the hubs back off to change over to marine blue grease.

Today I'm trying to repair/ replace copper LP lines. Years of road rash have left the soft tubing in pitted condition, even flattened in placesClick image for larger version

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I'm thinking more extensive replacement is in orderClick image for larger version

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Old 01-19-2014, 03:51 PM   #96
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Well, the hole got deeper! After looking closely at the fridge and its connections...Click image for larger version

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I decided to remove it and at least do some refurbishing. Click image for larger version

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Now I'm thinking about shopping for a new one.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:34 PM   #97
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What is the model of your fridge? The name plate might be found on the bottom of the door frame. Kinda looks like an RM36.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:20 AM   #98
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It says RM-24-TF. Dometic's site says the current replacement is RM2193. Does that sound about right? Do you know of other products/brands that fit or perform better?

Looks like the Dometic is roughly $600 shipped.
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