Garage storage

[Roy in TO]

Roy in TO
Something like this?
Wheel is white in photo. cut bottom part off.

Yes Kevin,

Something like that
I'm imagining that in your second picture the side walls of the steel box are the inner and outer halves of the rim with the castor wheels are welded between them. That is ... the mounting plate is inset into the rim.
Can you draw that?

Attachment 12901

[Kevin K]

Daniel V.
"Wrap some padding around the hubs."

GREAT IDEA.

I might have to try this.
No welding required.
VERY cheap also.
Could use a 6" Inner tube , cut apart around the hub.

[Kevin K]

Roy in TO
Like this ?

[Roy in TO]

[quote]Roy in TO
Like this ?

Attachment 12902


Sort of, remember the rim is a single thickness where it bolts onto the hub but it has two flanges where the tire mounts. If you can make the inner wall of the box the inner wall of the rim you would have it. Depending on the offset 1/2 the profile of the rim looks like an
h or a Y when viewed from the cut portion.

Can you make your white rim a little wider and set the castor between the inner and outer portions?

Now for those people where an 1/8 of an inch is making a difference, the castor could be bolted to the underside of the welded plate and raised or lowered with washers to adjust to the required height.

[Daniel V.]

I might have to try this.
No welding required.
VERY cheap also.
Could use a 6" Inner tube , cut apart around the hub.

Or just put a layer or two of old carpet on the ground, perhaps.

Or red carpet, if you think your egg deserves it. I hear it's pretty expensive though.

[james kent]

Forget the rim and trying to modify the flange. Just cut the semi circle from 1/4" plate and add the casters, drill the matching holes to your wheel spacing and hub and bolt into place.

[Roy in TO]

Sort of, remember the rim is a single thickness where it bolts onto the hub but it has two flanges where the tire mounts.

I can see a plate welded between the two bead seats in the picture below that would approximate the shape and location of the outline between the arrows designating "rim width" and the inner part of the rim.

[james kent]

Or cut a wheel, of 1/4" plate, just slightly larger than your hub and roll on it. You're not going down the road. Just 20' into the shop or garage. No extra parts to work with.

[Roy in TO]

Forget the rim and trying to modify the flange. Just cut the semi circle from 1/4" plate and add the casters, drill the matching holes to your wheel spacing and hub and bolt into place.

Simpler yet would be to use angle iron with 2 holes drilled into one side of the angle to match the bolt pattern and attach the castors to the other side of the angle.

[Roy in TO]

Simpler yet would be to use angle iron with 2 holes drilled into one side of the angle to match the bolt pattern and attach the castors to the other side of the angle.

Which is pretty much what this thread started with (shown below), but the flat of the angle would face outwards without a notch and the angle iron would be mounted to the bolts/lugs below the hub/spindle.

[Angelo F.]

Why not just replace the caster wheels with much smaller diameter skateboard or roller skate wheels & bearings? Seems the only "tough" part would just be adding a bushing/sleeve to fit the thru bolt and maybe a washer or two on each side to make up the width?

[Kevin K]

Cut some 3/4" plywood the same size as he hub, then put some rubber around the outside or some thin metal to protect the plywood bottom..






Many good ideas listed here.

[Daniel V.]

Cut some 3/4" plywood the same size as he hub, then put some rubber around the outside or some thin metal to protect the plywood bottom..

Interesting. Your "plywood tire" does have the advantage of being easily removable, as opposed to a rubber + duct tape, or carpet-that-gets-in-the-way solution. Plus it attaches to the proper "load points" on the hubs and that's most likely the way they were intended to work. We're discarding the sideways moveability, but I suspect that's not something you had as a requirement to begin with.

[Pete Dumbleton]

Wish I'd thought of plywood wheels before I spent money on some small trailer wheels that scratch the concrete (inside the garage, I don't care, but the outside apron is part of the condo, so I have to put down carpet to protect it.

With a wheel on the tongue jack, my 13' is easier to move back and forth to get some sideways movement, but it's not like it was on caster wheels.

The closer the frame and axle get to the ground the more difficult it is to get a jack under it....

[Alf S.]

Hi: What about using a pair of doughnut spares from the wreckers that are the appropriate bolt pattern. Would that lower the trailer enough to clear the door height??? Just " thinking outside of the Box"
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Pete Dumbleton]

I had to use 12" tireless wheels to get enough drop. I haven't checked, but I doubt there are many 12" or less automotive wheels out there in the wrecking yards.

[Roger C H]

...
The closer the frame and axle get to the ground the more difficult it is to get a jack under it....

For a low clearance jack, you can't beat a scissors jack

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1MZK5

[Roger C H]

I had to use 12" tireless wheels to get enough drop. I haven't checked, but I doubt there are many 12" or less automotive wheels out there in the wrecking yards.

I think there would be a problem clearing the brake drums unless you used the size wheel that your trailer came with.

Our Trillium has 13" wheels. The tires are 24" dia, mounted. So 24-13 = 11 and 11÷2 = 5.5. This would be the amount of lowering I would get.

A plywood disk would seem to be the best way to go because you could make the O.D. a minimum amount larger than anything that would need clearing like the brake drums. We have 7" brakes, so the drum is maybe 8" dia. If I made a 9" dia plywood wheel, now I would have 24 - 9 = 15 and 15 ÷ 2 = 7.5. Another 2 inches of lowering compared to the wheel. Plus the plywood would be cheaper. The only thing I would worry about is if it would hold the weight.

[Roger C H]

I put a new axle in my 13' Scamp . (April 2008) Now the scamp won't fit in my garage. My solution is, to make some wheel dollies, so I can get the scamp in the garage, when winter comes back in the fall. I will use the lug bolts from the wheel hub to secure the wheel dolly. The trailer hub will be only about 1/8" off the ground. I will take off the rims,mount the dolly and push the Scamp into the garage.

This is a good solution, however, I wouldn't weld all those braces but just use 1/4" thick 3 x 4 angle iron about 12-18" long. Then all you would need do is drill holes to match the wheel pattern and the casters. Bolt the casters on and fasten the angle iron to the wheel plate or brake drum using the wheel lug nuts. One would control the height of the trailer component with the height of the casters and location of the holes for the wheel studs. You could also place the angle iron vertical flange up or down as needed. You could also use 4 revolving casters, 4 rigid casters or 2 of each.

"Make it stout and get it out"

[Roger C H]

A little off topic, but what program did you use to make your drawings? I have Turbo Cad but find it difficult to use.