Garage storage - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-29-2008, 10:58 AM   #29
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Forget the rim and trying to modify the flange. Just cut the semi circle from 1/4" plate and add the casters, drill the matching holes to your wheel spacing and hub and bolt into place.
Simpler yet would be to use angle iron with 2 holes drilled into one side of the angle to match the bolt pattern and attach the castors to the other side of the angle.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:04 AM   #30
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Simpler yet would be to use angle iron with 2 holes drilled into one side of the angle to match the bolt pattern and attach the castors to the other side of the angle.
Which is pretty much what this thread started with (shown below), but the flat of the angle would face outwards without a notch and the angle iron would be mounted to the bolts/lugs below the hub/spindle.



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Old 05-01-2008, 08:41 PM   #31
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Why not just replace the caster wheels with much smaller diameter skateboard or roller skate wheels & bearings? Seems the only "tough" part would just be adding a bushing/sleeve to fit the thru bolt and maybe a washer or two on each side to make up the width?
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Old 05-02-2008, 07:47 AM   #32
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Cut some 3/4" plywood the same size as he hub, then put some rubber around the outside or some thin metal to protect the plywood bottom..

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Many good ideas listed here.
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:16 AM   #33
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Cut some 3/4" plywood the same size as he hub, then put some rubber around the outside or some thin metal to protect the plywood bottom..
Interesting. Your "plywood tire" does have the advantage of being easily removable, as opposed to a rubber + duct tape, or carpet-that-gets-in-the-way solution. Plus it attaches to the proper "load points" on the hubs and that's most likely the way they were intended to work. We're discarding the sideways moveability, but I suspect that's not something you had as a requirement to begin with.
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:48 PM   #34
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Wish I'd thought of plywood wheels before I spent money on some small trailer wheels that scratch the concrete (inside the garage, I don't care, but the outside apron is part of the condo, so I have to put down carpet to protect it.

With a wheel on the tongue jack, my 13' is easier to move back and forth to get some sideways movement, but it's not like it was on caster wheels.

The closer the frame and axle get to the ground the more difficult it is to get a jack under it....
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:47 PM   #35
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Hi: What about using a pair of doughnut spares from the wreckers that are the appropriate bolt pattern. Would that lower the trailer enough to clear the door height??? Just " thinking outside of the Box"
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:15 PM   #36
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I had to use 12" tireless wheels to get enough drop. I haven't checked, but I doubt there are many 12" or less automotive wheels out there in the wrecking yards.
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:50 AM   #37
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...
The closer the frame and axle get to the ground the more difficult it is to get a jack under it....

For a low clearance jack, you can't beat a scissors jack

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1MZK5
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:06 AM   #38
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I had to use 12" tireless wheels to get enough drop. I haven't checked, but I doubt there are many 12" or less automotive wheels out there in the wrecking yards.

I think there would be a problem clearing the brake drums unless you used the size wheel that your trailer came with.

Our Trillium has 13" wheels. The tires are 24" dia, mounted. So 24-13 = 11 and 112 = 5.5. This would be the amount of lowering I would get.

A plywood disk would seem to be the best way to go because you could make the O.D. a minimum amount larger than anything that would need clearing like the brake drums. We have 7" brakes, so the drum is maybe 8" dia. If I made a 9" dia plywood wheel, now I would have 24 - 9 = 15 and 15 2 = 7.5. Another 2 inches of lowering compared to the wheel. Plus the plywood would be cheaper. The only thing I would worry about is if it would hold the weight.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:11 PM   #39
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I put a new axle in my 13' Scamp . (April 2008) Now the scamp won't fit in my garage. My solution is, to make some wheel dollies, so I can get the scamp in the garage, when winter comes back in the fall. I will use the lug bolts from the wheel hub to secure the wheel dolly. The trailer hub will be only about 1/8" off the ground. I will take off the rims,mount the dolly and push the Scamp into the garage.
This is a good solution, however, I wouldn't weld all those braces but just use 1/4" thick 3 x 4 angle iron about 12-18" long. Then all you would need do is drill holes to match the wheel pattern and the casters. Bolt the casters on and fasten the angle iron to the wheel plate or brake drum using the wheel lug nuts. One would control the height of the trailer component with the height of the casters and location of the holes for the wheel studs. You could also place the angle iron vertical flange up or down as needed. You could also use 4 revolving casters, 4 rigid casters or 2 of each.

"Make it stout and get it out"
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:32 PM   #40
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A little off topic, but what program did you use to make your drawings? I have Turbo Cad but find it difficult to use.
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Old 09-30-2008, 11:45 PM   #41
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Egads! There are TWO threads dealing with this topic and I am posting to both!

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry290756

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Old 10-01-2008, 06:37 AM   #42
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Google sketchup--FREE program---> http://sketchup.google.com/ Very easy to learn.
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