Generator mod on 13 Scamp

[Joy A]

Donna,

I secured the piano hinge on top of the frame and then under the lid which gave me more clearance from the Scamp rather than if I had secure to the back of the box.







I forgot to measure it but the bumpers I put on the back of the box are about 1/2 thick and they don't touch. The box is probably 3/4 to 1 inch from the Scamp at it's closest.

[Joy A]

Finally, if you recall I made the box removable and it's locked on with locking hasps. Here's a couple of pictures.

[Donna D.]

Donna,
I secured the piano hinge on top of the frame and then under the lid which gave me more clearance from the Scamp rather than if I had secure to the back of the box.

Cool beans! Looks like quite the ticket for everything Joy.

[Bill K]

Donna,
I can't begin to tell you how long it's been since I heard the saying "Cool Beans"

I would guess when I was a teenager, and Im no spring chicken.

Bill K



" Cool beans! "

[Donna D.]

I would guess when I was a teenager, and Im no spring chicken.

Bill K



" Cool beans! "

I'm not a pullet either Bill maybe that's why it felt so right to say it!

[Coach George Jessup]

Didnt go back and reread this whole thread. My apologies if you answered this already.

Do you also have it clamped or bolted to the frame? Eliminating vibration and ability to hop up and down a little is my reason for asking.

Your locking hasp look like they will allow travel up and down 1/2 inch or so they are not enough to cinch the whole unit tightly down.

[Roy in TO]

Your locking hasp look like they will allow travel up and down 1/2 inch or so they are not enough to cinch the whole unit tightly down.

Maybe we are seeing different things. I see the hasp held in place by a six sided elevation beneath the rotating lock in the second picture of the hasp. Looks like there might be a little room to wiggle but not 1/2 an inch.

Do you see something different?

[Time K]

Hi Joy, thanks for sharing the excellent ideas and your project looks awesome! Nice work!

I have a question on the hasps as well. Before deciding on what style of lock to use, was road grime and it's potential ability to gum up the lock tumblers ever a concern? Can you get rubber covers for those hasps you're using? I understand those displayed can be locked and secured separately

Mike

[Coach George Jessup]

Maybe we are seeing different things. I see the hasp held in place by a six sided elevation beneath the rotating lock in the...
Do you see something different?

if that is how it works then you should be pretty good to go. I thought it was a larger cut out in the hasp so it will slip over tumbler body but once that's rotated to lock the tumbler shaft could travel up and down full distance of the hasp's opening, but still unable to remove item due to horizntal position of tumber body.

Knowing better now how it works; it looks "fine". Looks like it would work "real good" if you put a piece of squashable rubber or neopreme as a mat below the unit. Just enough that when you go to lock it you have to squash it down tightly to allign the lock.

This would provide tension to make it void of vibrating. Will help prevent lot of wear and tear on things if you put lots of miles on her or if you get into your share of bad roads.

BTW- Looks great

[Parker Buckley]

Question:

I know this type of generator is very quiet, but I'm still curious to know what folks' experience might be in terms of noise and vibration with them fasted directly to the trailer. There is one in our future, probably this year. We'll probably start out leaving it portable, but mounting it on the the tongue (also a 13' Scamp) would certainly have a lot of advantages. Thanks for posting your installation details. Very nice setup.

Parker

[Roger C H]

I have three questions about this install:

1. Will the generator receive sufficient cooling air while it is running in this enclosure.

2. Could the generator be damaged by road dirt coming up through the grate floor when traveling in the rain?

3. Could the heat build up in the enclosure be dangerous to the propane tank?

Looks like a nice job otherwise.

Oh, oh. Look what I found on the Honda EU2000i website:

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/product...et=gg_operation

Give the generator plenty of space. Leave at least three feet of space around the top and sides of the generator. Do not enclose the generator in a box or other casing. Proper ventilation is vital to its use and your safety.

That doesn't look good.

[Pete Dumbleton]

That's a general warning -- This generator is already in a box -- Others have done similar things and not reported problems -- Were it mine, I would have vents in the sides where the vents in the generator casing are, in addition to the open bottom, plus vents in the top cover.

There's going to be more vibration on the frame than there would be on the ground and some attention should be paid to parking and the prevailing wind to prevent carbon monoxide buildup -- A CO alarm may not be useful because it will likely be on -- I've seen 'remoted' (twinned 1000i's) setting off the alarms.

[Greg A]

Give the generator plenty of space. Leave at least three feet of space around the top and sides of the generator. Do not enclose the generator in a box or other casing.

That's a general warning --

I'd call that a very specific general warning---

[Joy A]

Parker, I ran my generator in the box on the tongue and there is no noticable vibration in the Scamp. The tray and box are sturdy and solid to the frame. I can hear it with the door closed but it's no bad. With the door open it is obvious but not objectionable. Probably because it is mounted on the door side of the tongue which vents the exhaust to that side. And no the exhaust fumes do not go into the trailer.

Pete, just to let you know, if you read my original posts you'll note that I mentioned the right/street side is removable. So if I find the generator needs lots of air this is what I can do. Open the lid, open the deck plate on the curb side, take the street side off, open the two plates on front plus the bottom is an open grate. Now if that doesn't do the job I can simply remove the entire box exposing both the propane tank and generator while I operate it.

As for others, you may do what you wish. I choose to mount my generator in my new mod. Our original owner of this site, Michael, made a similar box on his Casita back in 2002. His mod. prompted quite a few others that I know to do the very same mod. I have heard of no problems with any of these.

I thank you all for you thoughts and comments.

I have nothing further to post on this subject.

[Roger C H]

I don't want to be a spoil-sport, but dissimilar metals cause galvanic corrosion when wet. This is a small electric current formed by dissimilar metals in the presence of an electrolyte, water. All water is a little acidic. The galvanic corrosion eats the metals away. From Wikipedia:

"When two or more different sorts of metal come into contact in the presence of an electrolyte a galvanic couple is set up as different metals have different electrode potentials. The electrolyte provides a means for ion migration whereby metallic ions can move from the anode to the cathode. This leads to the anodic metal corroding more quickly than it otherwise would; the corrosion of the cathodic metal is retarded even to the point of stopping. The presence of electrolyte and a conducting path between the metals may cause corrosion where otherwise neither metal alone would have corroded."

The article gives some hints on how to prevent galvanis corrosion and is worth reading for anyone building metal assemblies for outdoor use:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

[Pete Dumbleton]

I'd call that a very specific general warning---

It's boiler plate that they include with all their generators, including the open frame ones and the already-enclosed ones -- Clearly the ones already encased rely on only the vent holes in the plastic to cool them, so as long as the vent holes are ventilated, all should be well -- Joy can open the end and top, and the bottom is already open, so in one sense it's better ventilated than it would be when sitting on the ground.

I wouldn't be at all concerned about galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel in the typical environments we camp in, esp as it only applies to DC, not AC current.

Joy, I've had my CO detector go off when from cars idling in a nearby parking lot -- CO migration will depend on where the wind is taking it -- It can also happen with furnace vented outside if wind is right and window is partially open -- Or from a generator sitting at the end of an extension cable -- The difference is that it's easier to move such a generator if yourCO alarm starts going off.

[Roger C H]

"I wouldn't be at all concerned about galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel in the typical environments we camp in, esp as it only applies to DC, not AC current."


You have missed the point. Galvanic corrosion happens on an aluminum screen door with brass fittings. All you need are two dissimilar metals exposed to rain. The combination forms a battery. It has nothing whatsoever to do with AC or DC. Admittedly, there are certain metal combinations that are more active than others (see below). You can get galvanic corrosion with two steels that are slightly different compositions.

Read the Wikipedia link.
Galvanic corrosion is the reason boats have sacrificial anodes mounted on them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode

I see by the table
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_of_stan...rode_potentials
that Aluminum (AL) is -2.33 whereas Iron (Fe) is -0.44. That difference indicates that a strong current would be set up between a piece of aluminum and a piece of iron in the presence of water. During rain, the water seeps, indeed is wicked into joints and then galvanic corrosion occurs until the water dries out, or one metal or the other is destroyed. Try it. place an aluminum nail and an iron nail connected to each other with a wire in a bath of water. Add a little salt or vinegar to the water to speed up the process.

[Donna D.]

Corrosion is precisely why the very helpful gentleman at the hardware store suggested I put thin nylon washers between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum window frame when I reinstalled a window the door in my Scamp. The nylon washers were easy to die black with a permanent marker and now aren't noticeable.

[Pete Dumbleton]

Of course there may be galvanic corrosion , just as there may be on many parts of your tow vehicle in the rain, it's just not enough to WORRY about in our usual environments -- In the unlikely event that there was a 12VDC 'leak' to the frame or box, it would still not amount to much because the fresh water is not much of a conductor -- If this installation were on a boat operated in salt water then I would be more concerned, but that's not the case here.

Aluminum and steel are much closer to each other in the galvanic series than aluminum and brass.

There is DC involved in this because the dissimilar metals plus the water MAKE a DC battery -- No DC battery, no flow and no anodic decay -- However, if there is 'loose' DC flowing in the right direction, it will make the effect worse.

I also don't think it would be a good idea to try to isolate the aluminum from the steel for anti-corrosion purposes unless they were carefully electrically bonded together again with a grounding strap because one might create the potential for a personal safety problem with the 120VAC.

[Bigfoot Mike]

As y'all may know I sold that Casita last year. I used it for several years. I used three metals: mild steel, aluminum, stainless fasteners.

I made three boxes. My first box was not just what I wanted and I gave it to my father-in-law who used it until last month. My second box was on my Casita and I sold it. The third I built for my brother , who is still using it in Idaho.

All three boxes have had NO problems with electrolysis. I think it may show signs if given enough time.

I hope this helps,
Mike

PS: Yes my box did have an open bottom (a little) and an open back on the trailer side. The doors were open when running in the box. I also added a high volume computer fan to the 12 volt plug to add ventilation when the motor was running. When I started the generator, it automatically provided electricity to the fan. YES, you could feel a small amount of vibration when the generator was running, but not enough to even talk about. My generator was hard wired to the Casita until we camped at an RV park.

Hey, I was just trying to solve a couple of problems we had.

• How to have 115 volt any time.
• Where to carry our bikes.
• Easy starting.
• Plenty of propane.

This solved all those issues very well. This weekend I am building a new generator box for my newest trailer, 25' Bigfoot.