Going to replace or fix my frame. Take the body off? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:45 PM   #21
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Trailer: 1991 Scamp 16 ft
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I've already gone on a trip with this thing but want to finish up what I started here. I put the vinyl in the back as well. I built a little shelf to cover the water hoses that run along the back.
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:54 PM   #22
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Next I had to get rid of the supports that go under the body since I couldn't get the two together with those huge beams in the way. I put the corners on blocks and actually started to raise the wheel-less frame up with jacks and supported it with four jack stands. I then started to lower the body onto the frame. I felt like this gave me more control as I only had to drop the frame a touch as compared to 6-8 inches. I would put a 4*4 post under the back floor and lift in the middle there as I took wood off the corner supports. In front I had to just use the floor closest to the edge and do a corner at a time. Leave the door piece long and don't cut it until the frame is almost all the way down. I cut mine too early and regretted it. It's almost too short.
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Old 06-25-2019, 10:02 PM   #23
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I secured the body to the frame with two methods, screws and I made a couple of homemade U-bolts as Lowe’s doesn't sell the kind for square for ramen and I was set to leave on a trip so made my own with some steel they had that already had holes in it that were the right spacing for what I needed so cut two longer pieces into four sections each and rounded off the corners. The fact that the body is held on with only screws boggles my mind so wanted to add a little more security. I drilled pilot holes for the screws as it's just easier to get them in. I used the smaller screws for the metal where it's relatively thin (up front) and the other ones for the thicker material. Pictures show the brackets I made.
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:02 PM   #24
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I did two of those in front and two in the back section for a total of four. There's just no place to do it in the middle section so you have to put screws in there where you can. With the fridge, heater, etc., it's hard to find places.
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:13 PM   #25
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After all of that is when the real work begins. Putting it all back together is a fairly major undertaking. I did put those ears back on the side of the steps and applied new fiberglass and resin there so it's sort of like it was before. I am not sure what those do but I did put a few screws through them from the inside out.

One area of warning - when I went to put the front bench in, it wouldn't sit right. It looks like the bottom actually rests on the metal frame and the floor butts up to it. I ended up cutting off a little off the bottom of the bench since there was no way I was going to be able to remove 1/4 inch of flooring under that shower overhang. The same thing happened on the side cabinet right by the door. I was able to cut that section of the floor out with an oscillating multi-tool.

Like I said, from this point on is actually a lot of work. Hooking the gas back back up, installing trailer chains, mounting the battery box, running new electric brake lines, putting everything back inside, and everything else takes forever. I barely finished in time for our trip. By the way, the new five hole wheels still fit the four-hole bracket on the back with no modification. I bought a mounted spare at Northern Tool.
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:18 PM   #26
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Got it done just in time for our annual National Parks trip! Really like the fold-out step and the brakes are a big improvement over what I had. The new stabilizers in the back are much more substantial and useful and the front jack goes higher than the old one did. Very happy with what's under my camper now!
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Old 06-26-2019, 12:23 AM   #27
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Looking good Bryan, nice job .
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Old 06-26-2019, 06:09 AM   #28
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Great work! Well done! Enjoy! I love those National Parks! They are a treasure that many from other parts of the world thoroughly enjoy but they seem underutilized by US citizens. So sad.
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Old 06-26-2019, 06:58 AM   #29
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A quick question for my own curiosity. I've watched several of these off the frame renovations, mostly because of rotted floors. Is there any reason people use OSB instead of treated plywood or at least marine grade plywood? I've researched it and they say there is no problem using it in interior applications as long as it doesn't come in contact with food. Outside of negating the 5 second rule I would think using a rot resistant product would be a prudent choice.
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