Gutting 1987 13' Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-22-2014, 10:21 PM   #1
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Name: Rachael
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 13'
Alaska
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Gutting 1987 13' Scamp

Hi all, very happy to join this group. I just bought a Scamp in Fairbanks, Alaska and the fix up project has begun. Overall it's in decent shape, usable with no major damage, but a ton of little repairs needed. I'm wanting to start with the ensolite, do you recommend taking all cabinets and the closet out to do it right? I assume I have to drill all these rivets out? And do I replace with new rivets or can I use better hardware? What's the best way to seal new hardware from rain? Thanks, looking forward to lots more questions.


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Old 07-22-2014, 10:27 PM   #2
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Name: Rachael
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:32 PM   #3
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Stop! If it's usable, safe to go down the road... it just needs cleaning. Your dirt is cleaner than their dirt. The ensolite is repairable, paintable and caulkable. You don't NEED to remove cabinets, etc. unless the floor is really bad. Others will step in and give you some great advice.

Cute kiddo BTW. Start out right, take the kid camping and make a ton of memories!
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:42 PM   #4
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Hi Donna, thanks for that, I really don't want to remove them! I guess I thought I should because the ensolite routes behind the closet and it's hard to reach seams. I am keeping the ensolite, was going to caulk, tape & paint. Lots of the white caps to the existing rivets are missing and someone just globed caulk over every nook and cranny on the outside so it's all sloppy.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:32 AM   #5
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Name: RogerDat
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Caulk removal will be your biggest headache! You can order snap cap set and rivets from Scamp store.

Snap caps have a seal cup under the rivet that acts as a seal. The cap snaps onto the cup. I put a little wafer of butyl tape under each cup, setting the rivet squeezed it tight.

You might find this thread of rivet sizes of use. Scamp Rivet Size List
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:14 AM   #6
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Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
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Originally Posted by AKscamper View Post
Lots of the white caps to the existing rivets are missing and someone just globed caulk over every nook and cranny on the outside so it's all sloppy.

Been there (still there), done that (still doing it), got the T shirt. Take it slow and assess each rivet/base/cap individually. Concentrate first on the ones on top that may actually be leaking. I found that although a lot of mine looked terrible they were not leaking and I could fry other fish first. Donít forget (like I did) to buy the bases when you get the caps, although you should not need as many bases. And there are two sizes of caps/bases, you donít need many of the smaller ones.

My research revealed three levels of rivet tools, crappy, better, and best. I have tried all three and the crappy was, well pretty crappy. The "best" riveter (borrowed from a friend) worked great but the "better" was perfectly adequate and at $3 from a yard sale was the "best buy". I am not sure your little rivet buddy there is big enough for the job, you may need to recruit another helper to hold the acorn nuts inside. My ten year old was up to the task although she complained quite a bit.
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:26 AM   #7
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The white outer cap is "sacrificial" to the UV damage from the sun. It protects the cup underneath. And provides a cover for the rivet.

Decent rivet tool works better than the cheap ones and still not too expensive. I had a rivet shaft get jammed in a cheap one in the middle of a job when the internal mechanism broke. Frustrating.

When replacing the cabinet rivets I would do them in sets of three. One on the left, and two on the right, leaving the rivet between the two on the right alone. I think it helped keep the cabinet from shifting to not have two adjacent rivets out. Three also seemed to be the number my wife wanted to hold acorn nuts for before taking a break while I drilled more rivets.

Post #19 in that link on rivet sizes are some notes on when I replaced acorn nuts. Mine is 10 years older so the acorn nuts may have been a different size but the size of mine was not readily available. A shallow nut driver gave my wife a handle for pushing the acorn nuts against the wall and seemed to make it easier.

When I did the curtain rods I used snap caps but with a stainless steel machine screw and brass acorn nut on the inside. PITA for the person inside with the wrench on that small acorn nut but I think it looked nicer than the crumpled rivet to have a brass nut that matched the rod bracket. I could have probably used a rivet with the brass acorn nut come to think of it.
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