Holes you don't want - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-30-2015, 08:37 AM   #1
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Name: Steve
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Holes you don't want

This is my barn find.
A 3-way refrigerator was poorly (dangerous) installed.
Our style of camping would not be enhanced by having LP or DC powered refrigeration.
I don't intend to do restoration. I am sure a full rewire is in order, a lot of bare conductors and poor mods by previous owners.
First will come the shell repairs and window rebuilds.
Looks like I will be learning to lay up fiberglass.
Any advice from the group?
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:13 AM   #2
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I have one use sheet metal such as heating and cooling shops use to cover the inside of the openings, and rivet new vent covers over them. Looks like vents but has sheet metal behind them.


Even 110 volt electric refrigerator needs the air flow in the back so if you want any fridge there keeping some venting might be smart. Leave a hole in the sheet metal inner panel for air flow but reduced in size.


There is this long running thread with lots of information on repairing fiberglass. Including how to patch large openings such as those if you decide to go that route. You Can Repair Fiberglass


Heck you might even want to consider getting a replacement door for that lower section. Storage accessible from outside is one thing the Scamps lack. Even if just enough space to store a few items such as a jack or extension cord it would be useful. Assuming you had a fridge in front of it that left some room being less bulky than a 3 way LP fridge.
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:04 PM   #3
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RogerDat

[QUOTE
Even 110 volt electric refrigerator needs the air flow in the back so if you want any fridge there keeping some venting might be smart.
Heck you might even want to consider getting a replacement door for that lower section. .[/QUOTE]


We have a very nice SS Coleman that will live in that spot.
I had considered an outside hatch but the vent holes were cut very close to the hookups hatch. The sidewall is pretty flimsy with that much material gone.

Your link was a great confidence builder. I have a few smaller areas I should start with to learn how the resin acts. All in all fiberglass seems forgiving.

Steve
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Old 11-30-2015, 04:15 PM   #4
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I've heard that you can buy fiberglass panels from Scamp, pieces that they cut out for windows. I have a dorm fridge in our Uhaul, vent space around the front but no outside ventilation, and no problems. I installed a Scamp side and rear window in ours.
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Old 11-30-2015, 04:57 PM   #5
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This is why I am going to R&R all the wiring.
Thanks for all the advice. I looked at the Scamp parts store but could not find the cutouts.

RE: PM from Tom
I have watched Youtube Videos until my head hurt.
Laying up a flat panel seemed like a workable solution.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:22 PM   #6
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Scamp online store is only so-so. Better by far to call them directly. Especially for more major work. Or parts for older models. I ended up on the phone with the owner who looked up what rivets fit what on my 1977 13ft.


Also if you call and order the parts listed on the web store you can get USPS shipping which is generally a whole lot cheaper than what the web store charges.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobDog View Post
This is why I am going to R&R all the wiring.
Now that's ugly!
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Don't drill holes, try custom storage you design: http://RVWidgetWorks.com
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:32 PM   #8
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This I think is the right vent for the top opening. The bottom is an access panel / door.
http://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-s...02-detail.html


The bottom is an access panel / door on mine and this looks like what they replaced it with.
http://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-s...nt-detail.html


The phone call is to get dimensions and/or find out what they have that fits yours. Don't forget most camper manufacturers do not make this stuff they buy it someplace (mostly they all buy from the same places) so a phone call to get dimensions or supplier name and number could have those "holes" fixed for a lot less than cost of fiberglass and/or the time to lay up the panel.


The door and vent normally in those holes add strength being a frame and rigid in a couple of directions.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:32 PM   #9
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Wow, that's a lot of ventilation! I have no specific fiberglassing advice, but if I could learn to do it, anybody can.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:37 PM   #10
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Also I do not think that is a Scamp. Looking at the first picture the flare going back to the rear tail lights and over the door is NOT Scamp. At least as far as I know. Scamp has a metal deflector over the door.

Why the scamp store?


Just saw the UHaul CT13 in the profile.


Might want to check around Vintage trailer may have parts.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:05 PM   #11
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RogerDat,
You are correct. I have a Uhaul.
Mary and Bob had a source for fiberglass panel.
Quote "I've heard that you can buy fiberglass panels from Scamp, pieces that they cut out for windows. I have a dorm fridge in our Uhaul, vent space around the front but no outside ventilation, and no problems. I installed a Scamp side and rear window in ours"
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:07 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=RogerDat;561114]Also I do not think that is a Scamp. Looking at the first picture the flare going back to the rear tail lights and over the door is NOT Scamp. At least as far as I know. Scamp has a metal deflector over the door.

Why the scamp store?


Just saw the UHaul CT13 in the profile.


The Scamp store because the Uhauls are long out of production and no parts available. My recommendation only for fiberglass panel and rear window. Many parts including the wheels are unique to Uhaul only. Nothing available from Vintage Trailer either. The Uhaul 13 originally had only an icebox, the OP's trailer had a fridge added later and those holes cut in the side. That area of the shell is kind of flimsy and flexible so some sort of reinforcement may be necessary. As for the wiring, they typically used those Scotch-lock connectors, and I found some of the original wiring with deteriorated insulation and exposed bare wire, so a complete rewire is a very good idea
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:10 PM   #13
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Thanks for the advise on the floor rot repairs

I cut out all the rod and made a cardboard pattern of the cut out area and traced it onto a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood then sealed the seams with the fiberglass cloth and then used the resin and hardener on the entire area including the underside. Worked out great and was not all that difficult.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:10 PM   #14
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I did use Vintage Trailer to source a new power converter and awning rail, mainly because they gave out discount coupons at a rally. Original style marker lights without "uhaul" molded in the lens are available from Uhaul's parts site, but they are a common light made by Arrow
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