How can I mount these stablizer jacks? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-29-2012, 11:45 AM   #1
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How can I mount these stablizer jacks?

I purchased a pair of these for the rear of my Trillium:

BAL 20" Light Trailer Stabilizer Jacks - 2 Pack - Other - Stabilizer & Leveling Jacks - Jacks & Levelers

I'm looking for a way to mount them that does not "hang" below the existing frame, as the frame has only about 9inches of clearence, and is likely to "drag" going over low pot holes.

These jacks require side access to operate the screw to make them go up an down.

Ideas:

* weld on a bar on top and inside the box frame for mounting. Drill a hole thru the existing side member for screw access

???
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freddo411 View Post
I purchased a pair of these for the rear of my Trillium:

BAL 20" Light Trailer Stabilizer Jacks - 2 Pack - Other - Stabilizer & Leveling Jacks - Jacks & Levelers

I'm looking for a way to mount them that does not "hang" below the existing frame, as the frame has only about 9inches of clearence, and is likely to "drag" going over low pot holes.

These jacks require side access to operate the screw to make them go up an down.

Ideas:

* weld on a bar on top and inside the box frame for mounting. Drill a hole thru the existing side member for screw access

???
One easy way to get minimal clearance would be to cut one ear off of the end of the stabilizer,then place a length of mild steel angle along the frame member recessed enough to allow the tip of the screw to clear the bottom of the frame with the stabilizer attached to the angle.
That would give minimal clearance without frame modification.
I have the larger (full frame member) version of ball stabilizers on my 13 Scamp and I have no problem with clearance in the seven years since they've been installed.
There is something called "angle of departure"...
Take a straight edge and place it from under your rear bumper to the bottom of your tire. If the jacks fit above that line on the frame, they should be fine as it relates to most obstacles.
Those you have will work better, the further forward they are placed(up to a couple of feet)... you could even add another crossmember to locate them where you want them.

Look here....
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:09 PM   #3
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Mine were bolted on one end and welded to the bottom of the bumper on the other, not sure what was used to weld them as the bumper I think is aluminum and the stabilizers are steel.





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Old 05-29-2012, 08:31 PM   #4
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Your bumper must be steel. That's a pretty poor looking weld by the way. There is almost no penetration into either the bumper or the jack. I guess since the load is pushing up its no big deal but if your trailer ever did a little forward roll while on the jack I would expect that weld to break free or crack. You might want to look at the weld on the other end and see if it's better. I hope however welded that isn't doing other more critical parts.

Sorry about the hijack. Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #5
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My scamp rear legs are bolted to the bumper.

At time mine do not lock solid. Perhaps because they are old, seems to do it more when cold. But I have considered finding an alternative and your selection looks like it would be solid and allow for minute, precise adjustments.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
One easy way to get minimal clearance would be to cut one ear off of the end of the stabilizer,then place a length of mild steel angle along the frame member recessed enough to allow the tip of the screw to clear the bottom of the frame with the stabilizer attached to the angle.
That would give minimal clearance without frame modification.
I have the larger (full frame member) version of ball stabilizers on my 13 Scamp and I have no problem with clearance in the seven years since they've been installed.
There is something called "angle of departure"...
Take a straight edge and place it from under your rear bumper to the bottom of your tire. If the jacks fit above that line on the frame, they should be fine as it relates to most obstacles.
Those you have will work better, the further forward they are placed(up to a couple of feet)... you could even add another crossmember to locate them where you want them.

Look here....
Those look very solid, what kind of legs/stabilizers are those?
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
Those look very solid, what kind of legs/stabilizers are those?
They are Bal Stabilizers but they form their own crossmember and are heavier duty, there are two different heights available.
you can see details and read my review here...

BAL Deluxe Telescopic Stabilizing Jacks - JCWhitney
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:11 AM   #8
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On the "new" Trilliums they have two pieces of angle iron welded; one to the main frame member and one to a cross member. Raz
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:15 AM   #9
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Floyd

When we got our trailer we received sets of scissor jacks by BAL. similar to what you have. I'd like to mount them on the frame. What did you modify per your review.

Thanks


Gary
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:32 AM   #10
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We have the same BAL Leveler that Floyd posted. We love it. We ordered the 20" version and, for our 16' Scamp, we had to trim some of the cross piece or it would have been too wide for the Scamp. Not hard to do. Then we bolted it on to the frame underneath. As Floyd said, measure your 'angle of departure' and you should find a suitable location. When we upgraded to a 19' Scamp we took the BAL Leveler off and had it welded to the 19' Scamp. We were having some welding done for the axle anyway so we just had the welder do the BAL also.
It is quite convenient and the best part is that you have a full range of heights instead of dealing with incremental heights on the Scamp factory stabilizer legs.
Fran in NM
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:15 PM   #11
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I have those same levelers mounted on my boler. When I had the frame rebuilt, I had a cross member welded in and the levelers are welded to that. With them positioned at this height, the screw handle just clears the body. I'm not sure what the Trillium frame looks like or how low the body is on the outside, but on my boler I would have had to drill a hole in the body for the handle if the leveler was mounted any higher.
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:19 PM   #12
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I used unistrut and a Square UBolt to mount Atwoods on the front of my U Haul. It will work for any type of support. Unistrut has some special nuts that fit inside the cross section which allow for infinite adjustment as to position. I used metal screws designed to hold metal siding on steel buildings to attach the ends to the trailer perimeter frame. No welding was needed. the Unistrut was flexed to fit on the bottom of the frame and the top of the main tube of the frame.all the bearing weight is directed through the outer frame and results in a pretty secure setup. picts attached.
Michael J.
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:53 PM   #13
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How about this mounting system?
SaveAJack.com
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:51 AM   #14
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I think I'd like to weld them on if I can get enough clearance. I've got to carry them anyways and would like 4 less things to store.
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