How do I Stabalize a Hunter I?

[Jellykean]

Proud (green) owner of a Hunter I and looking for some advice.

I have been browsing different threads but I figured this would be a better way to get a clear answer.

What is the best way to park and stabilize when we are detached from the towing vehicle? Jacks? Scissor jacks? Stabilizers?

What is the best and why? Looking for convenience and stability since we have kids.

Thanks in advance!!!

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Jellykean

Proud (green) owner of a Hunter I and looking for some advice.
I have been browsing different threads but I figured this would be a better way to get a clear answer.
What is the best way to park and stabilize when we are detached from the towing vehicle? Jacks? Scissor jacks? Stabilizers?
What is the best and why? Looking for convenience and stability since we have kids.
Thanks in advance!!!

Don't think there is a "best" way Kelly. As you've probably found in your thread browsing, folks use all those type jacks. If I had to guess they use what came on the TT when they got it. I have the drop down stabilizer jacks on the rear of my SD but I also added the Bal, frame rail to frame rail, screw down jacks. The one I use depends on where I'm parked and both types are convenient to use. The Bal I can use also for side to side leveling if I'm close instead of blocks or 2x6s. I once had, for a short time, the stackable stands like in your pic, they were a PITA, both to use and store. From just looking at you pics, I think I would go with a bolt on high lift scissor jacks. Nothing to store except the jack handle. Bottom line, they all do the same thing, use the type you're most comfortable with . BTW, had to chuckle with your mention of kids. My kids have been around RVs since birth, they never had a problem with the RVs stability but I had one when they discovered the fresh tanks drain for making mud pies. Beautiful pies but we were boondocking.

[Jon in AZ]

In my opinion BAL stabilizers are the best. The are more stable and don’t hang down as far. I would mount them under the rear of the cabin rather than on the bumper. It’s not necessary, but for maximum stability you could mount another pair under the front of the cabin. If they fit, the ones that include both sides with a connecting rail spanning the trailer frame are best.

Scissors jacks will work too, and they’re quite a bit cheaper. You’d have to figure out where to mount them so they won’t drag.

The “drop down” (or more accurately, swing-down) Atwood stabilizers are convenient because they don’t require tools, but I think they’re being phased out. That’s what my Scamp came with, but they recently switched to BAL. You might be able to pick those up really cheap from an RV salvage yard since many older tent trailers had them. Caution, though- rust and/or dirt can make them bind up.

Regardless, you’ll need to know the approximate height of the trailer frame off the ground to get the right size (lift range).

[k corbin]

You are already using the easiest and least expensive way to stabilize a low ground clearance vintage trailer. My vintage Campster is very similar and looking at all the options most of which involve welding I realized the stabilizer jack stands were the lightest in weight and would work just fine. It only takes a few minutes to set them up. Also if you forgot to remove them it won't significantly tear up the trailer frame, they will just fall over instead . Should they get damaged, bent or rusty they won't cost all that much to replace and it won't be difficult to find replacements for them.


As to the kids...you teach them how to behave in the trailer and also why they have to behave. Show them exactly why the trailer needs those jacks at the back and at the front, it is a good lesson in physics for fulcrum points.

[Cathie Sadler-Pare]

Love your lil hunter! I am finally prepping mine to be painted, and we will look very similar. Yacht blue for my shabby beach shack! Doesn’t look at all like that now but I have high hopes and lots of elbow grease in my future : )
. I look forward to seeing you driving down the road!

[Brian G.]

We like to use the same screw-type stabilizers that you show in your picture. But sometimes, after we level the camper, we find that one or more of the stabilizers is too tall to fit under the frame -- even when it is screwed down to its lowest height. The Hunter sits quite low to the ground. Our solution for this problem is to pull the trailer wheels onto planks of wood. The frame, thus raised an inch or more, is then high enough to accommodate the stabilizers.

[Jellykean]

The problem we have is it seems like our wheel base is higher than the othrr models ive seen online. We end up using cement blocks, wood blocks, and even rocks at the sites if we cant get enough height with whats around. So scary and I'm tired of hauling blocks and cement all over the place.

[Tom Trostel]

When we had our Compact Jr, I traveled with 2 screw jacks that came with the trailer and 2 salvage yard automobile scissor jacks. Usually the screw jacks went under the rear bumper and the scissor jacks went under the frame where it joined the tongue. If the rear of the trailer was very low at a new site, then the scissor jacks were used in the rear. We never had a problem with this system.

[ststefan]

We chose 24" scissor jacks. They will easily raise the entire trailer off the ground so there's enough lift for uneven terrain. Your trailer looks about as high or higher than ours. They are attached with 3/8th inch rivnuts and bolts. Fast set up with a cordless impact gun. I carry a cheap black & decker for it.

[ststefan]

Originally Posted by ststefan

We chose 24" scissor jacks. They will easily raise the entire trailer off the ground so there's enough lift for uneven terrain. Your trailer looks about as high or higher than ours. They are attached with 3/8th inch rivnuts and bolts. Fast set up with a cordless impact gun. I carry a cheap black & decker for it. Attachment 127427Attachment 127428

4 jacks front and rear.

[Gerry]

I found that 2 Scissor jacks, welded to frame right at corner of where Fiberglass meets frame and 2, welded in the rear about a foot in form rear works OK.
If ground is unlevel I make sure trailer is level from right to left with wheel lifts. Remember these are stabilizers not trailer levelers.
Also I use those lift blocks so Scissor Jacks are not extended too high. Found that the higher I have to jack the less stable the jacks work.

[Brian G.]

Originally Posted by Jellykean

The problem we have is it seems like our wheel base is higher than the othrr models ive seen online. We end up using cement blocks, wood blocks, and even rocks at the sites if we cant get enough height with whats around. So scary and I'm tired of hauling blocks and cement all over the place.

Kelly, I wonder about your axle. My camper has its original drop axle (axle is a few inches below the spindles where the wheels attach). Also, the springs on my camper are attached below the axle. Both of these characteristics result in a lower ride level. Sometimes owners will replace the drop axle with a straight axle. Others may flip the springs to the top of the axle. Both modifications will raise the suspension. Changing the axle and springs is not a difficult thing to do on these trailers, and you might consider that if you are sitting higher than you like.

[Jellykean]

Wow, great information and picture! I checked and it looks like we have a strait axle. If you check out our pictures:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-ii-87801.html
I think whomever owned it before us used it only for hunting, which would explain the high ground clearance?