How does the Floor Attach to the frame? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-25-2015, 01:57 AM   #1
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Question How does the Floor Attach to the frame?

1979 Scamp 16.......

I have removed the dinette and am in the process of removing what is a bad floor repair job by the previous owner.

Can someone tell me how the plywood is suppose to be attached to the frame?

It looks like it tucks up under the fiberglass shell and should have a width of glass (lip) from the shell extending to the perimeter of the new floor?

Correct????

Thanks in advance,

Dave
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:26 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Dave Frazer View Post
1979 Scamp 16.......

I have removed the dinette and am in the process of removing what is a bad floor repair job by the previous owner.

Can someone tell me how the plywood is suppose to be attached to the frame?

It looks like it tucks up under the fiberglass shell and should have a width of glass (lip) from the shell extending to the perimeter of the new floor?

Correct????

Thanks in advance,

Dave
Dave, only from reading posts the floor is screwed to the frame. The fiberglass overlap needs to be cut back and redone after the floor is installed. Fiberglass repair like that is pretty easy to do. You may want to do a search here for pasted replacements from others although they will answer you soon with particulars for you. A multitool works very well for cutting FG, low dust and a fine line.
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:27 AM   #3
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Scamp has a video about their trailers. In it, it shows a fellow screwing the floor to the frame with what appears to be self drilling, self tapping screws. The video might still be available on the scamp site?? Raz
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:59 AM   #4
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Thanks guys. The repair part doesn't scare me as I have been playing with fiberglass on and off for 52 years.


Screwing the floor makes sense.


What I wonder now is what holds the shell in place? Kind of scary to think it is just the fiberglass to the plywood?
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:14 AM   #5
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O.K., I just watched the Scamp video. It looks like there is a lower fiberglass lip (under the floor) and the plywood sits on top of it so when you screw the floor down it sandwiches the lower shell half to the frame?
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:04 AM   #6
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HD and Lowes sells self tapping self tapping wood to metal screws. They seem to be hardned. Even though self tapping, drill a small pilot hole through the wood and metal. On the shell cut off the upper tab and leave the bottom tab in place if you can.
Eddie
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:59 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Dave Frazer View Post
O.K., I just watched the Scamp video. It looks like there is a lower fiberglass lip (under the floor) and the plywood sits on top of it so when you screw the floor down it sandwiches the lower shell half to the frame?
I have always understood (from reading others' posts, not personal experience) that there are two fiberglass tabs (or lips), both below and above the plywood (or OSB, in the case of newer Scamps). When repairing, it seems like people cut off the top tab, R&R the floor, then fiberglass in a new upper tab. I also understood that Scamp applies a coat of resin (?) to the underside of the floor before installation to protect it from road spray. Am I close?

Hope I never have to do this, but I like to understand how things work...
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:59 AM   #8
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Jon,




I love your post! ("I hope I never have to do this but, like to know how things work") I apprenticed for several years with a friend of mine who (in his mid 60's now) has made a career restoring late twenties to mid thirties Packard Automobiles. I love to accumulate what at the time may seem like useless knowledge but boy has it come back to help in ways I could never imagine! Eddie Seems to have done this project a time or two and I am glad to learn from his experience.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:02 AM   #9
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P.S.--- Talk about how opposites attract, when in between Packard projects there is an occasional vintage Indy car that comes through his shop. Reminds me of my Scamp versus my Avion 30 P. Simplicity versus complexity.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:32 AM   #10
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On my Scamp if you look under it you can actually see the exposed screws ends coming done through the floor and through the frames cross bars. Its a stock trailer. Floor has not be messed with by PO's. As others have indicated there is a lip on the bottom the floor sits on around the edges and then there is a top inside lip that is fiberglass. A pretty common approach seems to be to cut away the top inside lip and once you have the new floor in place fiberglass it back in with a new lip. Here are a few links that may help with visualizing how the Scamp floor is constructed & the approaches others have taken:

Fiberglassrv.com New OSB Floor on Scamp Question


Fiberglassrv.com Front Floor Replacement Couch Removal

CamperBob Blog - Recreational Engineer - My Problems With Scamps - post Feb 2013
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:43 AM   #11
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Dave,
I asked kinda' the same question a couple of days ago and got a great answer.
New OSB floor on scamp question

But as I'm slowly learning the search engine option on the site I found this too. Both great advice by same person.
Fiberglassing Floor

Have fun!
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:46 PM   #12
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Hope ours never needs the floor repair it has 1/4" thick fiberglass subfloor with gelcoat to road and top side then plywood, and linoleum on top, know this from the bathroom shower drain work.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:16 PM   #13
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When I did mine I drew heavily on other members experiences, I used a oscillating tool with saw blade to cut close to the wall but leave some of both the top and bottom lip to use when aligning the wall and the new floor. Put thickened FG in the joint when setting the floor into that groove, followed by layers of FG mat and resin to create a new "tab" that extends onto the new floor a few inches (underneath and on top).

Don't bother trying to unscrew the screws into the frame, those things are rusted solid. Use a grinder to take the head off and/or pry the floor loose after cutting back the FG tabbing (lip) around the edges. Grinder and screw in wood = smoke but it works and allows you to just grind the old screw off even with the frame to leave the old hole plugged.

Here is a post that has some pictures of my front floor being replaced. In need of a newer door for my Scamp

One thing I would not have thought of is you need a thick bead of construction adhesive between the frame and floor as a seal in some places but just to take up space when going over welds and other frame irregularities.

Suggestion to use 2x4's cut just a little longer than distance from belly band to ground and belly band to bumper and tongue allowed wedging the 2x4's under the belly band to support the wall when that section of floor was removed. I would only do a section at a time. Rear riser, front riser then center on a 13 ft. Not sure if 16 ft. has these same "natural" sections or if you would have to just decide how large a section to complete before removing the next section.
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