How to physically remove a heater ... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-13-2012, 02:58 PM   #15
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I went to Calgary Fastener & Tools at lunch. The weld screws that I sheared off cost $12 for a box of 100. Now to find someone to spot weld them in.

Since all I want is for the screw to stay in place until I tighten it, is there a glue that would be able to take some heat that I could use? Both of the ports that I need to replace the screws on don't get very hot.
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:13 PM   #16
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You could probably use any kind of metal epoxy to get it to stay in place long enough for what you want. The drawback would be down the road when/if you need to undo it for any reason.
I would spot weld it on- but then, I have a cheap Harbor Freight wire welder.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:09 PM   #17
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I give up. The exhaust vent overlaps too much and it is too hard to get to. The pictures detail the removal of the furnace.

I had intended to cut a square the shape of the red lines. I could cut the horizontal lines, but the verticals were too awkward to reach. I cut the sides instead.

As you can see the bottom horizontal was a mistake.

While I was able to get the furnace out this way, I still need to get the two telescoping tubes apart. I can't get the burner out because the hole in the heat shield around the burner box is too small to get the two tubes through. Maybe I will just make it that much larger. I just need to pull it out two more inches.
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Furnace - Exhaust mod 1.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust mod 2.jpg  

Furnace - Exhaust mod 3.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust mod 4.jpg  

Furnace - Exhaust mod 5.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust mod 6.jpg  

Furnace - Exhaust mod 7.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust mod 8.jpg  

Furnace - Exhaust mod 9.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:34 PM   #18
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What a job! I've taken apart a lot of old things that were put together on an assembly line. I always think - you know, they put this thing together pretty fast - there has to be a trick! Finding the trick usually comes after I destroy the first one (whatever it is) LOL!
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:27 PM   #19
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Well - there is ONE over-riding rule to ALWAYS be followed.

DON'T FORCE IT!!! (just get a bigger hammer!)
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:51 PM   #20
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I am having the same issue with a Hydroflame! I have been tugging on it for 3 hours, assuming it was a compression fit. I decided to ask here to see if I was wrong or insane.

I do not intend to re use the furnace as it started billowing smoke out the vent and flame out the front, so I don't really care about damaging it.

I have enough room in the wall try to get a wedge and pound the outter tube into submission..I'll let you know the results. LOL.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:51 AM   #21
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Would you be willing to sell the old furnace?? I'm looking at re-installing the ones missing out of 2 Trilliums I own and really would like to buy yours it looks just like the ones in my other Trilliums....
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:12 PM   #22
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Gina,
I ended up pounding the hell out of mine with various hammers to help yank it out.

If I remember correctly, the inner, smaller outside vent must come out (or be destroyed) first.

Use the side access by the door, and use a pipe or 2x4 to apply heavy pounding blows to the outside vent piece.

When I finished, I pounded the remains for good measure.

Attached is a pict of the interior furnace cutout, with work in progress. You can see that I have cut out a bit more on the bottom, and I've patched the right side and the power converter holes. I've backed the edges with wood which is held in place temporarily with screws. Once the fiberglass sets up, I'll remove the screws, bondo it smooth, and refinish with paint.

The new heater is a 3000 watt radiant heater. It will mount on hinges outside of the closet, one the bed side.

The new power center is going in the side access cutout.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D. View Post
I am having the same issue with a Hydroflame! I have been tugging on it for 3 hours, assuming it was a compression fit. I decided to ask here to see if I was wrong or insane.

I do not intend to re use the furnace as it started billowing smoke out the vent and flame out the front, so I don't really care about damaging it.

I have enough room in the wall try to get a wedge and pound the outter tube into submission..I'll let you know the results. LOL.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:38 PM   #23
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Heres a quick and fairly easy solution to remove the furnace if you have a dremel tools and a cut off disc. Slice the outer shield as shown in the first pictures. This leaves a little flange on either side to reattach another piece of sheet metal on reinstall. Then use your dremel toll to cut the inner pipe from the inside leaving a small piece of pipe to attach a sleeve and slip back over the pipe when you put it back together. The furnace will then pull out easily from the inside and the outer pipe will pull out from the outside. No beating or solvents needed!

Spanke
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:26 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanke View Post
Heres a quick and fairly easy solution to remove the furnace if you have a dremel tools and a cut off disc. Slice the outer shield as shown in the first pictures. This leaves a little flange on either side to reattach another piece of sheet metal on reinstall. Then use your dremel toll to cut the inner pipe from the inside leaving a small piece of pipe to attach a sleeve and slip back over the pipe when you put it back together. The furnace will then pull out easily from the inside and the outer pipe will pull out from the outside. No beating or solvents needed!

Spanke
The problem is that if you want to remove the burner it is necessary to get the fire box out of the housing. The two pieces of the exhaust tube will not slide out of the housing. The smaller tube is welded to the fire box. and the hole in the housing that it fits trough is too small for the outer piece. It is still necessary to separate the two telescoping pieces of the exhaust tube to get the burner out.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:00 PM   #25
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David- in post #9 you show the burner pretty good. Is that all that lights up on these. I used mine a few weeks ago and might as well have sleeping outside. I could see the flame through the little hole I lit it with. I couldn't see if the whole row was lit or not, though.
Do these heaters work pretty good in a 13' Trillium when it's 23 F outside- assuming they work as designed?
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:44 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by itlives View Post
David- in post #9 you show the burner pretty good. Is that all that lights up on these. I used mine a few weeks ago and might as well have sleeping outside. I could see the flame through the little hole I lit it with. I couldn't see if the whole row was lit or not, though.
Do these heaters work pretty good in a 13' Trillium when it's 23 F outside- assuming they work as designed?
The test I did involved a 1500W electric heater, or about 5000 BTU, (1 KW = 3414 BTU). And my 8200 BTU heater, (more then I thought).

At -13C (9 F), with just the furnace, I froze. I could see the pilot through the same hole you describe. There was some heat coming from the furnace, as much came out the exhaust. With the electric heater running at 900W, (3100 BTU) I was comfortable. With the furnace off, and the electric heater at 1500 W, it was about the same as 900W with the furnace on. By my estimate, the furnace was producing at best, 600W, (2000 BTU). Since the burner looked good, it was my conclusion that the gas valve was defective, (what else could it be?). The heater is rated at 8200 BTU. The folks at Outback / Trillium tell me that the heater should be able to cook me, even at -13 C.

Since I spent a bunch of cash at Trillium / Outback, Jo Thoen offered to get it going for me. That was a couple of weeks ago. I think I will give him a call and see how it is going.

I did not try this, but on my home furnace, before we changed it, sometimes it would not come on. If I tapped the gas valve with the handle of a butter knife, I would hear the familiar whoosh of ignition. Maybe give that a try.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:53 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info. I'll try "fiddlin" with it before I change it.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
The problem is that if you want to remove the burner it is necessary to get the fire box out of the housing. The two pieces of the exhaust tube will not slide out of the housing. The smaller tube is welded to the fire box. and the hole in the housing that it fits trough is too small for the outer piece. It is still necessary to separate the two telescoping pieces of the exhaust tube to get the burner out.
You don't have to remove the fire box or the exhaust tube to remove the burner.

In Pic.1 the Burner Stud as marked holds the burner in place. Remove the nut on the stud along with the nuts labeled 1,2,3,4 Behind and the sheet metal shield.

Slide the pilot and control valve assembly out and set aside. The burner will remain inside Pic.2

Slide the burner out through the same hole Pic.3

You can then clean/test etc. outside the fire box.

This furnace is a Duo-Therm 65810-2. Yours may be different.

Does anyone know what to use in place of the existing asbestos gaskets?

Spanke
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