How to physically remove a heater ... - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-11-2012, 10:48 AM   #1
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How to physically remove a heater ...

Hello,

I am removing the factory installed heater in my 1978 trillium. At least I'm working on it ....

As far as I can tell, it should be in two pieces (innner furnace & outer flue), joined by a horizontal 4 inch metal flue. I've removed all the exterior rivets. The exterior assembly is definitely moving (just a bit) but it seems to be firmly attached to the interior furnace. The interior furnace has also been de-riveted, and it won't release out either.

It looks like there is a friction joint in the flue about 1/2 way between the inner and out assemblies. I don't see any thing holding this together excepting friction. I'd expect this to release -- but it has not despite my desperate yanking.

Anyone done this before successfully? Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your replies.
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:26 AM   #2
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Hey Fred, whenever I do something like this, I like to take pictures. It would be great if you made this thread into a picture tutorial with explanations!

BTW- No, I haven't done this. But, I am going to take my fridge out (with pics). - Mike
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:44 AM   #3
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Fred it may help you get more responses if you tell us what model of furnace it is.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:03 PM   #4
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Fred

Do you realize that the flu pipe is a sleeve with 2 pipes in it?
There is an intake pipe and an exhaust pipe mounted coaxially.
One goes right through the middle of the other.

I remember when I removed the one in my 78 4500 to work on it that it also did not want to budge but I won in the end.
I think the alignment just causes them to be a lot tighter than I thought it would but also if you don't realize there is an inner pipe you likely could not have un-riveted it either?

Just a guess.

Ed
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Harris View Post
if you don't realize there is an inner pipe you likely could not have un-riveted it either?

Just a guess.

Ed
It looks like Fred and I are on the same path, (belly band, window frames, now furnace). The inner tube is attached by two screws on the outside.

I also am having trouble getting it out. According to the instructions in the document center, both the inner and outer tubes telescope for different wall thickness from 19" to 28". I think the inner tube, the exhaust, has rusted so badly that the two telescoping pieces do not slide against each other anymore. I was thinking of using WD40 or CLR, maybe both to help with the rust.

Carol, if it is like mine, which I am sure it is, it is a Duo-Therm 65812-002 gravity feed furnace.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:20 PM   #6
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The furnace model: Dou therm 65810-2

Here's some picts:
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_1764.JPG   IMG_1762.JPG  

IMG_1761.JPG   IMG_1760.JPG  

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Old 01-12-2012, 08:27 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
.
I also am having trouble getting it out. According to the instructions in the document center, both the inner and outer tubes telescope for different wall thickness from 19" to 28". I think the inner tube, the exhaust, has rusted so badly that the two telescoping pieces do not slide against each other anymore. I was thinking of using WD40 or CLR, maybe both to help with the rust.

That would have been my guess. On my Boler the "slip" was "welded" with rust and corrosion. I think we banged on it till it loosened and used muscle. Now I would try some PB Blaster.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:44 PM   #8
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Me Too!

As I said, I have exactly the same problem. The exhaust tube no longer telescopes. There is enough rust that the two coatings of rust have fused. The inner tube is attached to the furnace, the outer tube is attached on the outside vent as shown in Fred's picture above. As you can see in one of the detail pictures attached, the overlap is within an inch or so of the end of the tube. This makes for lots of surface area in contact. If I ever get them apart, I will trim the outside vent end so that the overlap is what it would be if the furnace was installed in a 28" wall. If it leaks a bit of exhaust gas, then it is leaking into the combustion air. Not a big deal.

I am assuming that others have run into this. How do we dissolve the rust? I am currently soaking it with WD40 daily. It does not seem to be helping. Now I am considering a blow torch and some wire around the outside vent to pull hard while I torch it. I am expecting flame form the WD40. If I do this, I will keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Attached are the pictures I took.

The galvanizing has been very effective.

It looks like the intent was to force the combustion products through a bit of a tortuous path. There is a deflector ridge on the back wall of the fire box, and another on the front, higher up. From the outside, this front ridge is of course a depression. I have observed that the hottest spot on the furnace was at a point on the front deflector. It has caused a rusty spot on the grill. I see, in pictures of other furnaces on this site and in adds online, the same rusty spot. I am assuming this was the intent of the designers.

I just wonder why the hot spot is not along the whole depression in the front of the firebox. You can sort of see the hot spot on the front of the firebox. It is to the left side. It almost looks like a slightly darker flame shape at the 3/4 point to the left.

In one of the side views of the inside of the firebox, you can see the part of the studs that is welded on the inside. These studs hold on the inspection hatch and the burner hatch. I have three of these to replace because they sheared off when I put a wrench on them. Any suggestions of how to do this would be appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails
Furnace - Exhaust - Intake - Right Side View - As Found.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust - Intake - Top View - As Found.jpg  

Furnace - Exhaust Detail 3.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust Detail 2.jpg  

Furnace - Exhaust Detail 1.jpg   Furnace - Firebox and Gas Valve - Inspection Port Open 1.jpg  

Furnace - Firebox and Gas Valve - Inspection Port Open.jpg   Furnace - Firebox - Inside - Looking Up.jpg  

Furnace - Firebox - Inside - Looking Left.jpg   Furnace - Firebox - Inside - Looking Right.jpg  

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Old 01-13-2012, 12:15 AM   #9
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A few more pictures. One is the surface of the burner, with the intake port partially visible behind it. The other picture is shooting up at the exhaust port inside the firebox.


With this post I am now a senior citizen.
Attached Thumbnails
Furnace - Burner and Intake - Inside.jpg   Furnace - Exhaust from Inside Firebox.jpg  

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Old 01-13-2012, 09:35 AM   #10
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Do you get a discount at Denny's now? ;-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
A few more pictures.

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Old 01-13-2012, 10:07 AM   #11
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David, on getting rusty nuts and bolts apart. I've done a lot of old cars and I like PB Blaster and a propane torch. I'll usually wet it down and let it sit for a few days if I have time. If I'm in a hurry (read that- impatient), I'll use the torch and a wrench and work the nut back and forth.
Sometimes though, I'll just use my Dremel, cut it off and replace with new.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:24 AM   #12
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Sometimes though, I'll just use my Dremel, cut it off and replace with new.
Unfortunately, new is not an option. They don't make it any more. I suppose I could have the outside piece fabbed up, but in Calgary, that would be expensive.

What is PB Blaster, and where do I get it?
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:56 AM   #13
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David, if it's just the studs, I would grind them down/cut them off and have a new one welded on- simple enough.
PB Blaster is available in any auto parts store or Wal-Mart down here. I don't know about Canada. It's a penetrating solvent. It doesn't catch fire (or hasn't with me) when I use it and a propane torch to loosen nuts. You can order it on line.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:41 AM   #14
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Heat and cooling cycles and tapping with a hammer to breakup the rust and allow the PB Blaster to penetrate usually works for me. I think WD40 is a poor second for rust penetration. Finally quickly heat the outer pipe to expand it before you pull.

Last ditch effort for me would be a sawsall at the flange and then re-attach when out and disassembled. Let us know what finally works and best of luck!
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