How to Remove Propane Tank?

[Gilda]

Hi all,
Does anyone know how to remove a propane tank from the tongue of a 13' Scamp? We ordered two tanks when we purchased the trailer new. I assume we need to center the solo tank. We really do not need two tanks and don't have the skills to remove one ourselves so I assume we will hire someone to do the job, but who?

[RogerDat]

Picture would help but don't they just have a holder or bar that is tightened to pull the tank down tight against the base it rests on?

Double tank typically has threaded rod between tanks to tighten, single typically has threaded rods on each side. Some have bands to wrap around the tank. Scamp uses straps on either side of the single tank.

If you get your double tanks off you may well see the holes already exist for the rods on both sides to mount a single tank.

Scamp store has this for double tank, note the slots in the bottom, that is where tray bolts to tongue. https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-...re-detail.html

Scamp store single tank shows a strap that hooks on tank at the top and just gets bolted down. https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-...ap-detail.html You need two straps.

You may well find that the holes that bolt the double tank tray down will align fine to bolt the straps to hold a single tank. If not a new hole might need to be drilled for one of the straps. Using an existing hole for the other strap.

[Borrego Dave]

Not sure if moving the tank to center would make much of a difference as it's only a few inches. Having never eliminated a tank would you also have to change the valve/auto switch end to a single tank unit?

[Eddie Longest]

I just switched from a double to single tank on a Scamp. I ordered the hold down straps, single tank regulator and hose from regulator to the tank. The holes are pre-dilled in the frame to mount the single tank regulator but the new regulator did not come with the mounting bracket. No big deal I just made a bracket. Just make sure you get them to send the frame mounting bracket. You also may need to get them to send you a brass connector for the regulator where it hooks to the trailer hose.
Tell the parts guy what you are doing and tell him to get a technician to figure out what parts you need. It should cost about $50-$60 + shipping. But you won't be dragging an extra 50lbs around on the trailer tongue.
You reuse the current hose from the trailer to the regulator. Remove the tanks, unhook the hose at the regulator going to the trailer, and undo the two bolt holding the tray to the frame. The old regulator lives on the tray to tank mounting system. Then start mounting your new stuff and leak check.
Eddie

[Gilda]

Thanks Eddie,
I knew there would be someone out there to give me good advice! Turns out it's simpler than I thought it would be!

[Eddie Longest]

Gilda
The only small issues I had was the regulator mounting bracket and the hose adapter fittings. The single tank regulator mounts to the right frame rail. You should see two pre-drilled holes on the outside of the frame rail between the battery and tank that is where the reg. bracket mounts. The regulator came with a mounting bracket but I think Scamp makes their own because the bracket with the regulator would not fit. The other issue was the adapter fittings between the regulators and hoses. Scamp has them you just have to order them, I got mine from my local RV shop. You could take them off your old regulator but I just wanted to retain the dual tank setup intact. I had a single tank trailer next to mine to go by so I could see how things needed to be mounted. If you have any questions just PM me.
Eddie

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Gilda

Hi all,
Does anyone know how to remove a propane tank from the tongue of a 13' Scamp? We ordered two tanks when we purchased the trailer new. I assume we need to center the solo tank. We really do not need two tanks and don't have the skills to remove one ourselves so I assume we will hire someone to do the job, but who?

A simpler option might be to swap in two smaller tanks. The cost to hire someone to do this might be better spent on a pair of light smaller 10 lb aluminum tanks.

On boats where we only use propane for cooking the smallest size aluminum tanks are popular. Frequently I see pair of 6 gallon tanks.

For you, I'd recommend two 10lb aluminum tanks--blue option below. Or two 11lb Fiberglass tanks. These are half the size of the typical 20 lbs size and just slightly shorter--and about the same weight as the single 20 lb propane tank you are considering. This would bolt in right where your existing tanks are mounted as they are about the same height. No modifications are needed--just lock them down. If it were me, I'd choose the Fiberglass 11 lbs tanks, but some places will not refill these because one manufacturer had a recall. If you buy those, get the ClearView by Ragasco, which past stringent certification.

Two tanks offer the benefit of having a spare tank in the case where one tank runs out. Going to a single tank means you would need to purchase a single output pressure regulator.

All of these are vertical tanks, and must be secured vertically, unless the tanks is specifically designed for horizontal use. A single horizontal tank might be easiest to mount as these have a flange on the bottom that can be bolted in place.

Weight comparison of several vertical tank options in decreasing capacity:

(2) 20 Lb steel tanks: 9.4 Gallons 74 lbs
(2) 10 lb Alum. tanks: 4.8 Gallons 40 lbs
(2) 11 Fiberglass: 5.2 Gallons 37 lbs
(1) 20 Lb steel tank: 4.7 Gallons 37 lbs
(1) 10 lb Alum. tank: 2.4 Gallons 20 lbs
(1) 11 lb Fiberglass: 2.6 Gallons 18.5 lbs
(2) 6 lb Alum. tanks: 2.8 Gallons 28 lbs
(1) 6 lb Alum. tank: 1.4 Gallons 14 lbs

Aluminum tanks will cost more, but will most likely pay for themselves in the vehicle fuel savings by carrying less weight in the long term. It always pays to keep things light.

A brief discussion of 20 lb steel and aluminum tanks:

I have a pair of 20 lbs aluminum tanks, and a dozen new steel tanks. Modern 20 lb steel tanks are lighter than those made in the past. The Tare Weight (Empty weight) is typically 16.6 lbs.

The Worthington Aluminum 20 lb tanks are taller because there is a taller second band around the top, and a taller heavier band welded on the bottom. Compared to steel, they are only 2.4 lbs lighter. I plan to cut that second band off the top, and file it smooth, which will make it shorter, but still not as short as a steel tank. It should then fit in my propane locker. Even if it didn't I'd cut it off to make it lighter.

[Timber Wolf]

I removed the double tank holder off the tongue of my 1988 Scamp 16 and discovered a single tank mounting rack under it welded between the bottom of the frame rails. I would need some kind of hold down straps but the rest was there to position a single bottle. I suspect it had a single tank from the factory and was "upgraded" sometime later to the double set up. It was a base screwed to the top of the tongue with 6 self-drilling screws. I am deleting propane from the trailer altogether for now (maybe permanently, if I really get into Solar) so am not hooking anything back up and bought the appropriate tapered plug from Home Depot to seal the piping (somebody else may want propane in the future, and there are enough places for bugs to live besides in the piping in my Scamp). As far as a new regulator for a single tank, mine had a lever to select one tank or the other. Why could I not have just plugged one side if I was only running one tank?

[Gilda]

Thanks for all your great ideas! I hope others reading this forum were helped as well.

[RogerDat]

Timber Wolf - Scamp sells those hold down straps, one would need two. And plugging is critical, water gets in, flows to the low point then freezes. Splits the copper line.

I found the use smaller tanks from Night Sailor a really good idea. Reduce the weight, purchase refill in smaller amount AND preserve the second as a backup tank in case one forgets to refill.

Not to mention if someone later needed larger tanks say because they camp in colder weather and run the furnace they can just swap out for larger tanks. Your not paying to remove a feature someone else may find desirable.

[ThomasE]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

As far as a new regulator for a single tank, mine had a lever to select one tank or the other. Why could I not have just plugged one side if I was only running one tank?

That's what I've done, I have one side of a changeover regulator hooked up to a propane tank, the other side has a 1/4" MPT plug in it. I've been carrying two tanks, but using the unconnected tank for my portable grill. But I'm thinking to just carry one tank at all times, but reuse everything else I can like the regulator.

[Night Sailor]

I would think it better to remove the second pigtail and plug it at the regulator than have it flopping around.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

<snip>I am deleting propane from the trailer altogether for now (maybe permanently, if I really get into Solar) so am not hooking anything back up and bought the appropriate tapered plug from Home Depot to seal the piping (somebody else may want propane in the future. <snip>

I like the idea of eliminating propane completely. What will you use to cook? Charcoal?

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by Night Sailor

I like the idea of eliminating propane completely. What will you use to cook? Charcoal?

I should have said eliminate it from the trailer. I will still carry a bottle for cooking outside on a seperate one or two burner stove. I have a rack in the back of the pickup truck that secures a propane bottle. Too bad I have a bunch of regular bottles, I would like to have an excuse to buy a lighter bottle. At present we are camping where we have 120V hookup so I cook on a cheap hot plate. Not very sexy for camping but it is dead easy and gets the jonb done.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

Too bad I have a bunch of regular bottles, I would like to have an excuse to buy a lighter bottle.

Those small aluminum bottles are very nice and feather light. Ice sailed on a few boats that only carried one of those for cooking. And I'm sure you have seen those refill adapters for the single use bottles. I got out of the habit of using the non-refillable tanks years ago because of the cost.

Like you I have many 20 lb bottles. I also have two 30's painted over with dates that can't be read, and had a few others with the old style valve.

I tossed out the old ones which turned out to be a mistake.

I swapped all my small bottles for new ones. Home Depot and Lowes will take these in exchange for new bottles, just to get your business. Of course now that I have new bottles I will take them somewhere I can get them filled up instead if short filled. In fact I took all of these "filled" bottles and topped them off. I just wish I'd swapped the few old ones I had instead of tossing them, then again I have so many it is not an issue.

Now I find myself wishing I had a few 100 lb bottles to mount on my utility trailer and one 6 lb aluminum tank, I sometimes car camp in my Volvo, and a means of refilling the small one.

[Darral]

I removed my propane tank from my 13' Scamp last year. It's very simple by removing the two tie-down straps held on with bolts & nuts. You will need to also remove the safety device that's mounted to the frame...or at least mine was mounted to the frame. Then you will want to remove the hose (unscrew it) from the Scamp's body. You can buy a "cap" at a local hardware store like Lowes/Home Depot to put on the open connector on the Scamp.

Darral

[Gilda]

What I want to do is center the one tank that will be left. Is that easy to do also?

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Gilda

What I want to do is center the one tank that will be left. Is that easy to do also?

The scamp single tank holders are just two metal straps that bolt down to the base the tank sits on. May find holes already there, if not then a few minutes with a drill will probably be all that is needed to drill the two bolt holes that pull the straps down to the base.

Easy peasy

[Darral]

Gilda,

As I was explaining, I have completely removed my propane tank. I'm all "electric" which is the way I prefer to camp. But here is a photo I found that I had taken showing where my single 20lb tank was mounted. There IS some extra bracing there for it to sit on along with some small tabs weld there to help keep the tank from shifting around. Otherwise, the straps that have already been mentioned hooks on the tank and holes drilled through the support angles you see there in between the tongue have apx 3/16" holes drilled for 10-32 screws (I would go 1/4" and 1/4-20 bolts/nylock nuts).

Hope this helps!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/50351683@N08/13991859062/

Darral

Originally Posted by Gilda

What I want to do is center the one tank that will be left. Is that easy to do also?