I Did It Again...A Compact Jr. - Page 9 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-06-2008, 02:03 AM   #113
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Well after following this thread and seeing the finally of Larry's rebuild,
I'll add a few of my pics, so you don't go into withdrawals. ha ha.

I made a comment, that I wish I could just hit the inside
with a pressure washer. Well, I got my wish! Here are todays pics.


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Just gettin' everything ready for the paint stage. The logo I outlined with a Sharpie marker before hitting it with the sander.
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:21 PM   #114
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we would have enjoyed gossiping w/you.. Sounds like your window has a slight sealing problem-- betcha it's on the side rather than top. SNIP!
Well, we made it home, so I thought I'd post the "window leak" update here. Don't know, Larry, really where the leak was. But we repaired it by uninstalling the front window in Theodore Roosevelt National Park (South Unit) after being locked out by an errant screw in the deadbolt. See...the kid who owned this trailer before us, or maybe the guy before him, stripped out the two screws that hold the face plate of the deadbolt in place, so the screws wiggled around. The door was tough to close early on in our trip, but I didn't want to completely remove the lock (woman and two children camping alone...though it didn't provide MUCH security, it provided a false sense of security that allowed me to sleep). So I tightened them as well as I could then siliconed them in place. Worked grand for a coupla weeks 'til we arrived in the boonies on a Friday evening. Then we were COMPLETELY locked out! All the windows had been closed before our move, and the top was, of course, latched tight.

Neighboring camper offered help and was equally baffled when he, too, discovered both the door knob and lock sounded like they were moving properly. His solution: remove a window, crawl in and get that door open from the inside.

I wasn't for it. I had two windows that worked wonderfully, one that had a minor leak, and no know-how about window installation. Turns out this guy really did know what he was doing, and I learned how to remove and install my windows!

Broke into trailer, removed lock (for the time being - have since reinstalled with bigger screws), and reinstalled front window with a healthy new lining of silicon. Seems to be holding up!

Jen
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:22 PM   #115
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Do your drawers have a U-shaped plastic guide on them? The factory installed a cheesy one that breaks real easy and then you just have a piece of plastic that acts as a slide.
Yup, my drawers do have that cheesy plastic slide, though some of them are broken and even those that are in shape don't work well. I'm headed to OSH to look at some solutions because, of all things, these drawers drove me near nuts on this trip!

Otherwise, trailer ran fantastically well. Loved it. Topic of conversation and curiosity whereever we went!

Jen
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:33 PM   #116
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Thanks for the measurement last night, and for offering to check it loaded - very valuable information.

Since I just figured out how to adjust my photos, here's what my rig is looking like...more pics after our trip this weekend.
Wow! That's really purdy! Thanks for sharing (and inspiring me).
Jen
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:17 PM   #117
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Larry, or anyone,

Talking about windows and frames... What type of sealant did you use between the interior walls and the wood frames? There were a few dabs of some kind of cement to hold the window frames to the walls. I will use the butyl tape for the exterior side. I am considering a PL type of sealant.
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:22 PM   #118
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Larry, or anyone,

Talking about windows and frames... What type of sealant did you use between the interior walls and the wood frames? There were a few dabs of some kind of cement to hold the window frames to the walls. I will use the butyl tape for the exterior side. I am considering a PL type of sealant.
Cliff- nuffin---- To be honest with you, Mike and I never even gave it a thought. We just used Kool Seal butyl tape on the outside. (by the way, we consumed 8 rolls on the project, and that was with slicing the rolls in half, as they are 2" wide) Prob our thoughts were, "if it doesn't leak on the outside, why worry?" I bet the dabs of cement were to hold the wood until the first screws went in. That would make it a one person job. Luckily, there were two of us.
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:50 AM   #119
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Yup, my drawers do have that cheesy plastic slide, though some of them are broken and even those that are in shape don't work well. I'm headed to OSH to look at some solutions because, of all things, these drawers drove me near nuts on this trip!

Otherwise, trailer ran fantastically well. Loved it. Topic of conversation and curiosity whereever we went!

Jen
On Sis' trailer, I just cut a wood plate with a notch to slip down over the drawer rail and glued it to the back of the drawer. Kind of a wood equivalent of the cheesy plastic slide.

The feature which is supposed to keep them from sliding out when you're travelling was broken, too, so I glued a little ramp onto the bottom of the drawers about 3/4 inch from the front. As you close the drawer, the ramp lifts the drawer slightly and then plonks down behind the cabinet face. To open the drawers, you lift slightly. If this isn't clear, I can make a sketch tonight and post it here.
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:40 AM   #120
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The feature which is supposed to keep them from sliding out when you're travelling was broken, too, so I glued a little ramp onto the bottom of the drawers about 3/4 inch from the front.

THAT is actually still intact on all the drawers, but it didn't really work well with unladen drawers. (Two fell out on the drive home.) So I installed baby latches which we'd recently removed from most of our kitchen cabinets here at home. They're basically very thin stainless steel plates with a hole and a notch on them. You install it to the inside of the door/drawer, bend it down with your fingertip, then close the drawer. A screw you've installed on the facing cabinetry lines up with the big hole and slips right in, but if the drawer tries to open, the screw wedges in the notch and there's NO way the drawer will open! (Believe me...DH and I have yanked pretty hard on the drawers and cabinets here at home when we've forgotten these suckers are installed.) Anyhow, the latches worked great for the trip.

As for my current project, discovered not all the plastic brackets were broken (two of three were), and that the one remaining bracket was merely not "on track." Replaced broken bracket on second and on third I'm working on replacing a rail that wasn't grooved with one that is (and a bracket - yep, the plastic one - to slide along that rail). Was going to go with the slides, but it was a lot more work than this simple fix. GOt a lot to do. Figured I'd go simple here if the end result made me happy.

I'm happy.

Jen
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:58 AM   #121
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Lifted the body off, and high enough to pull the frame from under. Welded additional supports on the frame. One problem is the tongue seems to be sagging, and bent up slightly. Not sure how to make the adjustment. The hitch as a slight angle up. I will have to take a closer picture later for suggestions.
Going camping this weekend starting Thursday! Using a different trailer of course...
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:05 PM   #122
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Lifted the body off, and high enough to pull the frame from under. Welded additional supports on the frame. One problem is the tongue seems to be sagging, and bent up slightly. Not sure how to make the adjustment. The hitch as a slight angle up. I will have to take a closer picture later for suggestions.
Going camping this weekend starting Thursday! Using a different trailer of course...
Gonna be a little rustic camping in that this weekend.... When I discovered that the tongue was a little flimsy, I trussed it, in fact I trussed the whole frame. If you have a welder, it's easy. Another place to add crossmembers is the high traffic area, i.e. the floor right inside the door. For the tongue I put jack stands under the frame, letting the tonque hang there unsupported, then added weight to the tonque to load it it (bring it down) then welded the trusses in. (BTW small block chev heads are 40#, 409 chev heads 60#) Bring it down slightly more than you want it to end up (approx 1/2")
Have fun this weekend, I'm leaving in a couple hours for a 2 week Elk Camping trip. (taking the Scamp- Compact is going to a different Elk camp with my friend Mike) Larry
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:08 PM   #123
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I love watching the progress on these Compact Jr's , wish I could find one in my neck of the woods. But I've never seen one around me. I don't think the wife would care for another trailer right now, quess two is enough. But I'll probably sell one next year, so I'll make room just in case. Nice work guys.
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:31 PM   #124
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There WAS one in New Hampshire no too long ago. Erm... yeah, I called They're just so CUTE! When I was very first thinking fiberglass trailer, that's what I thought I wanted, but they were always in California, or the like so I gave up.

I like the way the inside is laid out like a boat

I'll see if the one I'm talking about it still on Craigslist, and if it is I'll put it in the referrals.

Update: I just looked and it's gone. Shoot, I should have put it on the referrals when I saw it - I've just never done that so I'm not in the habit..

R.
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Old 10-24-2008, 02:16 PM   #125
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That may have been the one that was on Ebay a couple of weeks ago ? Anyway it looked pretty good and I was going to get on touch of the person, they I forgot about it.
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Old 10-24-2008, 04:42 PM   #126
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That may have been the one that was on Ebay a couple of weeks ago ? Anyway it looked pretty good and I was going to get on touch of the person, they I forgot about it.
This one was a one-tone robin's-egg blue (I didn't see the one on e-Bay).

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