I need a ground - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-19-2012, 03:19 PM   #57
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I suspect most folks here are using those yellow handled wire strippers that take half the wire with the insulation, untinned wire they bought at the hardware store, and a crimping tool from Harbor Freight. Old school.
not me. I've got me a real good pair of wire stripper and I'm a solder and shrink wrap kind of girl. As taught to me by the Tin Can Tourists. Did it that way when changing over to LED running lights - funny enough Scamp had used twist on wire connectors on the rear running lights - which explained some of the intermittent problems I was having with the old lights.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:52 PM   #58
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I just ordered one of these, I borrowed a friends and these really make it easy and simple
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i01
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:23 PM   #59
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not me. I've got me a real good pair of wire stripper and I'm a solder and shrink wrap kind of girl.
Carol, good for you. Jim, don't put your fingers in the wrong place.

I would suggest folks avoid the V notch strippers. (left)

The strippers with individual cutters are ok but I prefer the clamp and cut type. Mine were made by Speedex which are no longer around but can be found on eBay.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:13 AM   #60
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I found my ground in that I used a snap splice into a black wire, ran a short piece of 12g wire to my 18g led black wire. I used ThomasG method, wire nut/tape and then taped the entire splice/wirenut connection to the existing wires/pipes bundle, tight with no vibration possibility. The led now is lit when the pads are activated. Remember I'm working upside down under my bed in a space smaller than a MRI chamber without my glasses since I'm working so close to my eyes I can not see wearing them nor with them off. The sense of touch becomes important as one gets older. I am also using a flashlight held in my mouth which I find keeps my cursing to a minimum.
Sounds good, pretty much what I was thinking, but likely did not put across well. Glad to hear you got it set up and working good.

I understand the wiring under the bed issue, as I just did a bit of that a short while ago hooking up additional tail/brake lights. I have good distance vision, but do need reading glasses to see close, and they are not always the best thing working all twisted up and laying cramped under the bed.

The black wire is a negative though, and not a ground. The fact that the ground in a vehicle is bonded to the negative for safety reasons, should not be confused with how DC power works. I know that this is just a case of terminology, but I also think proper understanding of these terms and how things work, is very important as it leads to less confusion.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:24 AM   #61
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You are correct Jim, perhaps my title and labeling was misleading. The only time I remember a ground was needed was when I built my crystal radio in cub scouts, wrapping the toilet tissue coil and then attaching a wire inside our house to the radiator and my dad putting the antenna out on the roof resulted in hours of listening to out of town radio stations. This was before I had my first portable radio which was the size of a 12 pack!!
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:42 AM   #62
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This was before I had my first portable radio which was the size of a 12 pack!!
Did it have tubes?
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:25 AM   #63
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yes and a 9v battery, around 10 lbs
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:49 AM   #64
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I acquired an old Zenith from the trash. It used a couple of D cells for the filaments. and a rather expensive 90 volt battery for everything else. I was too poor to afford the battery just to see if it worked so I stripped it for parts. You're right, big and heavy.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:51 AM   #65
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I acquired an old Zenith from the trash. It used a couple of D cells for the filaments. and a rather expensive 90 volt battery for everything else. I was too poor to afford the battery just to see if it worked so I stripped it for parts. You're right, big and heavy.
Sure it wasn't a 9 v- I have never heard of a 90 v battery/
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:35 AM   #66
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Sure it wasn't a 9 v- I have never heard of a 90 v battery/
Yes, the tube plates required large voltages to get those thermionic emissions going. If yours had a 9 volt battery it was for the filaments. There would be a second battery lurking somewhere. At least 45 volts. The Japanese took the transistor, invented at Bell labs, and gave us 9 volt " transistor" radios. This in turn gave us Gidget, the Beach boys, and much later, cell phones.

RadiolaGuy.com : tube portable radio: portable tube radio
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:59 AM   #67
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The 90 volt battery was referred to as the "B" battery, and as Raz said, supplied plate voltage for the tubes. There is a photo of a typical one in the middle of This PDF, which also shows how to build one for antique radio fans...
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:03 PM   #68
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Wow, I never realized there was another battery.
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