Icebox to electric fridge - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-12-2012, 01:46 PM   #1
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Icebox to electric fridge

I know this is a duplicate question, but I can't figure out how to get the search engine to limit itself to this topic and every other post has at least one of the keywords.

I ran across a fridge the exact size of my icebox space. I've thought of replacing the icebox before, but it is very tempting if it doesn't require too much in the way of modifications. I could run the cord right down to the outlet strip the microwave is plugged into.

I am pretty sure I would need to vent it, though, if you did this what did you do to vent?

Any other concerns?

This model is available with or without freezer (not a separate freezer). Pros and cons? Con is obviously less refridgerator space.

Edit: freezer ruled, out, manual says freezer model needs six inches in back, fridge only two inches. I'm looking at this one.

http://www.danby.com/en/US/our_produ...tion/dar0488bl

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Old 06-12-2012, 04:56 PM   #2
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Are you always going to be plugged in. Is the 120 volt wiring heavy enough to handle another 15 amp.

See specification here
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:06 PM   #3
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I'm skeptical that this would work well if you didn't vent it somehow. The heat has to go somewhere.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #4
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Worth further investigation if you stay in one place for a week or so and have shore power. As I recall we have a member with a non gas (compressor) fridge who added a round vent to the side of his trailer. I believe he found it at a home center. Also, you can have wiring added if need be. My concern would be whether a dorm fridge can take the vibration inside a trailer. I suppose using a room air conditioner in a trailer would be similar. Might try searching dorm fridge to see what others have done. Raz
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:31 PM   #5
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Bobbie,

This is doable, but you have to watch out for a few things. In my scamp, I switched out an icebox for this 12V/120V fridge: link It is made for this environment, stays cold on the long drives (because of the 12V), draws minimal power, and is roughly the size of the other fridge (not exact though). I did have to modify my opening by 1" in each direction to get it to fit. It vents to the main compartment and has a fan to help the circulation. I ran it on a 90 degree day with the scamp closed up and the fan didn't run and it stayed cool.

On my last trailer I just put in a 120V fridge where the icebox was. We only used it on trips up to 4 hours and it would stay "cold enough".

All these fridges need a little air flow. The link above designed it in. With the 120V fridge I had a big compartment I put it in and made sure air could flow above and below it. Your electrical system has to handle the load which usually isn't a problem with most typical systems until you start running multiple things. I couldn't run the fridge, heater and frying pan at the same time on my last trailer. With off the shelf fridges we have had problems with the door opening as we travel so you have to make sure it doesn't happen to you! The fridge I linked to has a door switch to prevent that problem.

I hope that is helpful. Let me know if I can answer specific questions.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #6
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And the price for the DC refrigerator is???

NORCOLD DE-0751 AC/DC Marine Refrigerators at West Marine
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #7
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I got quotes $650-$800 for the 12V/120V Norcold 0751 fridge.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:13 PM   #8
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I figured it would need venting but I think I would just vent it to the cabin now that most of my camping is in cooler climates. It would be near a window, anyway. Power could be an issue as I do have the microwave plugged into the same outlet it would need to use. I don't know about vibration but as it has instructions in the manual on securing things in it for travel I think they planned on it sometimes being used in an RV. Hmm, I'll have to think about it.
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:54 PM   #9
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When I bought my Boler, this mod had been made. The PO had put in a dorm fridge (in replacement of the ice box) and had been using it that way for years. The cabinet was wide open underneath the sink - nothing was too tight - and no heat build up of note. The fridge still works fine, tho it got moved out of the Boler when I put in a 3-way.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:28 PM   #10
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A previous owner replaced the icebox in our Compact Jr with a GE dorm fridge. It measures 33" tall x 18.5" wide, x 18" deep. It is mounted on a 2"x2" frame with a strap over the top. There is a drawer above and a cabinet with no top below. There is no outside vent on the trailer. This arrangement has worked very well with no problems even in the Texas summer heat.

Compact :: dorm frig covered with maple contact paper picture by tomNjo - Photobucket
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:29 PM   #11
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What's nice about this little model is that it would require no change in the size of the fridge/icebox opening. I think maybe after my boondocking trip in July I'll pull out the icebox and either insulate it (if that looks easy) or try installing the fridge. I'll vent it to the cabin (I don't camp in the heat) and hopefully it will be an easy mod. I won't do the freezer model as there should be more venting for that one.
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