Id plumbing part - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-14-2013, 08:28 PM   #15
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2000 YOM is smack in the middle of Escondido production, Donna, but still a valid conclusion concerning Burro and no doubt other marques with less suspect production standards. It is very likely that Thomas will have Per W.'s strange shower pan.

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Old 01-14-2013, 08:47 PM   #16
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After reading a whole bunch of threads, Burro did some really strange things. Not only plumbing but electrical as well. It just really important that folks don't tear into something without checking all items out. IMHO it would be sad if owners spent money/time/effort and aren't successful. I'd almost feel responsible....
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:14 PM   #17
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Burro did some really strange things without reading even a single thread LOL. I'm giving attention to the very real possibility that Thomas should NOT attempt the repair if the tearout is likely to uncover an install similar to PW's. Thankyou for your concern, DD.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:15 PM   #18
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Thomas, fotos of the Burro toilet refit follow along with a brief gloss on what's shown/happening in each.

[To Burro owners who may happen on this thread, please DO NOT assume that Escondido Burro used a single method of plumbing rv toilets (with specific reference to the configuration of the shower pan beneath the toilet) nor that the refit illustrated is compliant with either current industry standards or sanitation codes governing rv plumbing. I cannot take responsibility for your understanding, interpretation, or use of what you see here nor can I guarantee that the results of the choices and decisions you make will be satisfactory. I do not represent myself as a professional plumber and normally would not consider this disclaimer necessary in a public forum composed largely of amateurs. DonnaD expresses the opinion that my experience with Burro plumbing is a special case which warrants special scrutiny and caution. So be it. As she would say: YMMV]

#1. The old Valterra pulled showing the ABS riser solvent-welded to the botton of toilet where closet flange seal would normally be found. This piece of pipe a friction fit in the black tank grommet.

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#2. Removing old toilet revealed a flat floor to shower pan without the saddle-like protuberances which Per W. found. Used a router and piloted rabbeting bit to put a 3/8" wide X 3/16" deep step on the edge of the hole in showerpan to accept "bolster" on underside of PVC closet flange (next shot) and allow flange to seat to floor. Closet flanges have this feature to greater or lesser degree to provide strength to the cone-shaped seal cavity on the upper side. Other ways to provide clearance for the bolster would be champfer bit in router or drum sander in drill motor.

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#3. Neoprene grommet was placed in hole in black tank and 3 1/2" dia end of closet flange pressed into grommet to locate for drilling of bolt holes thru pan and floor. Closet flange removed and bolt holes enlarged to 5/16" to take barrel of tee-nut from underneath floor. Tee-nuts were "pulled" into underside floor with a 1/4"X20thrd hex bolt and socket from above. [SS would be good here but I used plated steel]

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#4. Grommet sprayed with Canola oil and placed such that lower ring inside tank/upper ring on top. Altho the old grommet came out easily, the new one did not go in easily! I also heated the new grommet to improve flexibility and needed all my fingers and the rounded end of an adjustable wrench as a prybar to get it in.

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Continued next post.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:33 PM   #19
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Burro toilet refit continued

#5. Closet flange and home-grown neoprene gasket]

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#6. Neoprene gasket in place.

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#7. Closet flange bolted down. Closet flange oriented such that hold down bolts for hopper are in the open t-slots because more resistant to breaking and deflecting than the longer closed slots. Not necessary to do it this way if you don't wish to. Transverse spacing is also a bit more flexible this way in case the holes in the potty are not precisely on 6" centers.

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#8. Threads of all bolts including holddowns "kissed" with antiseize compound. Anyone who has watched this stuff spread over everything knows what the plastic bag is for. Keep some mineral spirits handy to get it off your fingers or whatever you touch.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:37 PM   #20
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You have been busy Jack.....nice documentation.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:46 PM   #21
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More Burro toilet refit:


#9. Stepping back for a moment.

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#10. Cute caps for hold down bolts.

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#11. Cap in place on toilet base.

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#12. All done and teak floor grate cut down 1" as distance toilet base to aft shower bulkhead was less with the new Thetford hopper.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:57 PM   #22
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Birdbath Revisited (Burro toilet refit)

#13. Lucky Me! My upright auxiliary cooler can still travel in the WC despite the loss of space. NOTICE the retention bar and bungee. It goes outdoors after landing.

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#14. Say, the new one sure looks stark white against the old gel coat. And the parchment tint was way too rosy. Time, grunge, and UV will solve that.

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#15. Keeping my supply shutoff no matter how well this one seals.

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Old 01-15-2013, 05:19 PM   #23
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Thanks Jim. Unfortunately, a script, a photog, and a continuity girl are all necessary to really illustrate step by bitter step. Sometimes the mess gets vacuumed and the blood washed off before you get the shot. Well, you know. I tried to do most of the work up to "dry fit" and then disassemble and shoot components but something is lost. Fortunately, it's mostly for ThomasE who knows the pitch and won't jump in where angels fear.

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Old 01-15-2013, 06:46 PM   #24
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You did a great job Jack. Now I'll just have to be brave enough to see what's under my setup. A couple questions...

The original toilet was held on with 2 bolts through the floor and not the standard closet flange/closet bolts?

What seals between the new closet flange and the toilet?

Did you get the standard height or hi-profile toilet? And how does that compare to a household toilet in height. My current Burro toilet seems kind of low.

Any reason you went with handle flush instead of foot flush? I clean and flush the black tank with a hose spraying into the toilet, with my current handle flush I have to bend over and hold it down to keep the flapper open which gets tiring. Was thinking foot flush would hold it open with less effort.

I see your bathroom has an accordian style, is that stock or did you add it yourself? Mine had a glass shower door that opens outward, but was too inconvenient so I removed it and added a shower curtain. But I like the accordian style doors.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:15 PM   #25
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Holddown bolts appeared to be althread ground to a point on the end going into the floor; flange nuts under the floor and holding down toilet. They were pretty rotten. Nut came off one; other side froze and finally pulled thru floor and pan.

Seal between hopper bottom and flange is standard closed cell foam ring supplied with Thetford toilet.

I believe I have the taller model at 17 1/2" hgt.

I chose the hand flush because I was used to it and thought perhaps the linkage to the foot pedal might be more complex or more susceptible to getting out of whack. I keep a large supply of whack on hand for just this situation. I also was unconsciously thinking ahead to the cargo bay for my Coleman cooler altho I installed the floor flange before I discovered the loss of space in that area. I could have got an offset flange which would have set the toilet an inch or so to the rear. I like the strait drop to the tank. Gravity is a wonderful thing. Planned or unplanned the foot treadle that's not there doesn't get in the way. I see why you want the foot treadle.

Trailer had a vinyl accordian-fold when I bought it but the sliders were torn off the top due to the track being screwed to a bowed header. I had to scribe in a white Sintra filler which followed the bow on top and was straight and level on the bottom to which to attach the track. Devil in details! I also have a shower curtain inside the shower. The only "showers" I take are when I'm winterizing. I hate the elcheapo vinyl accordian door from the big box but the choices seem to be cheap and cheerful there or send an arm and a leg to some decor specialist for maybe the same quality.

It seems that the most common part in every plumbing system is the "adaptor." Sometimes you need to make it up as you go along as with the neoprene gasket which I fabricated to stop shower water migration from getting to the floor bolts and exposed edge of floor. Given that the pan was reasonably even and true, I felt it was a better seal than a caulk preparation which might or might not have stuck to the gel coat.

I hope there are some hints here, if only of better components and smarter ways to accomplishment than I resorted to. I really believe the tank grommet is going to be one item in common so if a new one is needed, Dyers RV is the source. I've got my fingers crossed about your shower pan. Go slow.

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