If you had it to do over again - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-25-2006, 05:19 PM   #29
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Roger has spent the last two weeks totally rewiring and adding outlets and lights. It sounds incredible that we have 5 outlets in a 13 foot trailer. One is outside, one in the closet, as I use a C-pap machine to sleep. It will be on the bottom shelf of the closet and we'll cut a hole for the breathing tube to come through. Another outlet will be in the cabinet under the sink to plug in an instant hot water dispenser. There was already an outlet on the front of the kitchen cabinet and he put one in the back cabinet over the bed. There will be three 12 volt lights and a converter under the refrigerator. We have a couple more blocks to install for a new shelf, then we are ready to start applying the wall covering. R n'B in WA

Great job. All it takes is a little elbow grease and time and viola it is done and really makes a difference in the trailer. I know that it did for me in my trailer. Have a good one. Pat
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Old 11-25-2006, 06:41 PM   #30
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We just bought a small one with a lock off E-Bay last week. It has to be pretty small to fit the curve of the trailer. I think there were still about 40 available. (Item # 4614813362) It does have a gap around the door opening which will need a seal of some sort. It was $10 plus shipping of $7 I think.

Bonnie
I just installed one of those locker doors from ebay. Not too hard to do. I put the hinge on the underside so it stays open while I'm in it. There is a gap to fill at each side. I cut some "camper tape" foam to fit. I used rubbber tape and pop rivets.
The only problem is I can't remove the blue felt pen lines I made for sawing. Acetone got most but not all.
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Old 12-15-2006, 09:16 PM   #31
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I just installed one of those locker doors from ebay. Not too hard to do. I put the hinge on the underside so it stays open while I'm in it. There is a gap to fill at each side. I cut some "camper tape" foam to fit. I used rubbber tape and pop rivets.
The only problem is I can't remove the blue felt pen lines I made for sawing. Acetone got most but not all.
Here are some things I have used to remove Sharpie marks in the past. Pam cooking spray, WD-40, Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, and aerosol hairspray, have all worked on different surfaces. There is also a product called "Goof Off" that might work. Good luck. Bonnie
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Old 12-15-2006, 09:40 PM   #32
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We've found that good old isopropol alchol (rubbing alchol) works pretty darn good at removing 'Sharpie" marks.
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Old 12-16-2006, 12:44 PM   #33
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MEK will eradicate any trace of the sharpie in most cases. Use with caution. It can also harm some surfaces so try on some hidden spot first.
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Old 12-18-2006, 06:57 PM   #34
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Now--if I could just figure out how to squeeze in a shower and flush toilet
Bonnie and Roger in WA
Roger, you don't say what kind of trailer you are working on. It says you have "none".
As for the shower, there are many that have rigged up poles, and shower curtains, on closet pole holders, and made a removable shower in the middle of the floor, with a large plastic storage container for the water, I am sure you are aware of that. I did that, scooted it up to the door, and dumped the water outside. I know, a no no.
But the reason for my posting is to say, that if you have a flush toilet, then you are going to have to fool with sewer hoses, , instead of an old garden hose for the gray water. That is why I took my flush toilet out, and use a porta potti. To each his own !! Penny
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:40 PM   #35
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A trick I've used many times is to center masking tape so the "cut line" marks were on the tape. The saw or Roto-Zip "blades" cut right through the tape and the tape eliminated the erasure problem. It works on fiberglass, drywall, painted surfaces, plywood and fine finished surfaces.
To prevent scratches caused by the metal foot of the tool, cover the foot with masking tape.
Works for me.
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:27 PM   #36
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I use a wide carpenters pencil, really nothing more than a #2 pencil, only fatter. Nothing that would permanently mark the gel coat. An art gum eraser removes all traces of the lead.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:51 PM   #37
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A trick I've used many times is to center masking tape so the "cut line" marks were on the tape. The saw or Roto-Zip "blades" cut right through the tape and the tape eliminated the erasure problem. It works on fiberglass, drywall, painted surfaces, plywood and fine finished surfaces.
To prevent scratches caused by the metal foot of the tool, cover the foot with masking tape.
Works for me.
Kurt & Ann K.
Remember to remove the masking tape off the saw foot after use....a year later it becomes a chore...just ask me! ... ...Benny
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Old 12-25-2006, 01:29 AM   #38
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Roger, you don't say what kind of trailer you are working on. It says you have "none".
As for the shower, there are many that have rigged up poles, and shower curtains, on closet pole holders, and made a removable shower in the middle of the floor, with a large plastic storage container for the water, I am sure you are aware of that. I did that, scooted it up to the door, and dumped the water outside. I know, a no no.
But the reason for my posting is to say, that if you have a flush toilet, then you are going to have to fool with sewer hoses, , instead of an old garden hose for the gray water. That is why I took my flush toilet out, and use a porta potti. To each his own !! Penny
Really I was joking about the shower. We very seldom boondock, so there are usually showers available at the camp grounds.

I think somewhere in past posts, it says that we are redoing a 13 foot Lil Bigfoot. It's coming along. The wall covering is done, windows back in, lino on the floor and the upper cabinets are refaced and hanging on the wall. A couple more days and I'll have all the lower units and closet covered with Formica and they will be ready to re-install. There is still plenty to do. Everything has to be reconnected. The new counter top is yet to be designed and the appliances reinstalled. My wife will do the upholstery and curtains.
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Old 12-25-2006, 06:27 AM   #39
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If i had to do it over again, i'd get "two" U-Hauls, 1 to build the wifes way she wants it and 1 my way ( mine is strickly for fishing), hers is for usless stuff like sleeping and eating...
heheheh .
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Old 12-25-2006, 11:32 AM   #40
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I just put all my mods to the test.

In the back of my mind when doing most of them, it was a "what if I have to live in this thing?" scene.

Well, I just did for 3 weeks and I really didn't see anything I could change to make a major improvement. I was comfortable, and the layout worked for me with the front dinette mod.

Since I was in a full ammenities park, city water would have been nice, but filling the tank was not that big a deal.

The bed, however, will need some work. It is cozy and comfortable for a couple nites, but it is a bit hard on my old bones for long periods of time. I sleep on an air mattress at home, I am wondering if I could find a place that will custom shape one for the trailer?
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Old 12-28-2006, 11:14 AM   #41
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I just put all my mods to the test.

In the back of my mind when doing most of them, it was a "what if I have to live in this thing?" scene.

Well, I just did for 3 weeks and I really didn't see anything I could change to make a major improvement. I was comfortable, and the layout worked for me with the front dinette mod.

Since I was in a full ammenities park, city water would have been nice, but filling the tank was not that big a deal.

The bed, however, will need some work. It is cozy and comfortable for a couple nites, but it is a bit hard on my old bones for long periods of time. I sleep on an air mattress at home, I am wondering if I could find a place that will custom shape one for the trailer?

Gina,

Years ago - 30 or so - there was a company in California that made a camper/backpacker mattress that was a sewn outer shell with individial compartments running lengthwise. In the compartments you inserted individual bladders that were inflated to your needs. As I remember they sold replacement bladders that were just a roll of plastic tubing of some kind. I don't remember how the ends were sealed or the inflation valves were installed.

We didn't buy them because we were just poor students at the time.

However, if they are still available, it would seem one could be customized for the Scamp. If you ever find a source, or a satisfactory solution, let me know, because we just returned from a 3-weeker in the back roads and back country of So. AZ and noticed the same problem as you. For us it would need to be converted from bed to table each day.

Loren
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Old 12-28-2006, 11:27 AM   #42
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I was thinking of actually taking my one at home out there, and simply inflating it to see how it filled the curves. There is a natural barrier at the kitchen and closet side to keep it from filling up over there, but I don't know how the curves will effect it.

It's wierd, of all the expensive and high tech bed types there are, I discovered that an air mattress fits my needs best. After a major thoracic surgery, where I could have NO pressure on my right side, I used a single air mattress to sleep on during my recovery. It worked so well, I went to one permanently. It is easier on my back and legs. Go figure!
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