Inexpensive voltmeter - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-15-2012, 11:41 AM   #57
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Hey EEs, can I jump on here and get off at the next stop? Got one of those "auxilliary port" voltmeters which is showing 9+/- cranking voltage in my truck. The battery is at least 3 yrs. old. I am guessing that since retiring in Aug. I'm not driving enuf to make up vampire discharge. I have a trickle charger and I also have shore power to the Burro and the PD9245 converter maintaining charge on my house battery all winter. It occurs that I could jump the house to the starter battery, kick the Wizard to boost, and let the trailer converter make up for the 300+ mi. per wk. that I no longer drive. This battery appears strong in our mild (high 30s) weather right now but I know I'm headed for trouble later this winter. Do I have a chance of reviving this battery? Any downside to jumping it into the converter circuit?

jack
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:12 PM   #58
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bumped to attract Sparks
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:17 PM   #59
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bumped to attract Sparks

Well, I'm an ME, but I never let ignorance on a given subject stop me from pontificating.

Are you proposing to plug the trailer into the TV and basically back power the TV battery with the converter? So, the question is, " would having two batteries in parallel, befuddle the smart charger logic?"

It seems like once both batteries are charged, the float mode would keep them topped off.

See figure 9: Connecting Chargers - Batterytender.com
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:23 PM   #60
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Hey EEs, can I jump on here and get off at the next stop? Got one of those "auxilliary port" voltmeters which is showing 9+/- cranking voltage in my truck. The battery is at least 3 yrs. old. I am guessing that since retiring in Aug. I'm not driving enuf to make up vampire discharge. I have a trickle charger and I also have shore power to the Burro and the PD9245 converter maintaining charge on my house battery all winter. It occurs that I could jump the house to the starter battery, kick the Wizard to boost, and let the trailer converter make up for the 300+ mi. per wk. that I no longer drive. This battery appears strong in our mild (high 30s) weather right now but I know I'm headed for trouble later this winter. Do I have a chance of reviving this battery? Any downside to jumping it into the converter circuit?

jack
Have you considered one of those small solar chargers you put on the dash? If you park outside, maybe this would keep the battery topped off? I wouldn't count on this actually charging the bat, but it may be enough to keep it full.

For the sake of discussion, are we assuming this battery is still good? ...it may not be.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:02 PM   #61
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I accept the rephrase to the distilled essence of the question. Yes, jumper cables in parallel from the trailer house batt to the vehicle starting batt as normal for jumping. No negative consequences except the possibility that the vehicle battery may not take a charge? Sounds like an acceptable non-risk. The Wizard idjot light is showing float and the multimeter says the house batt's getting float current (13.17V) so it's as juicy as it's gonna get. I'm going to Indiana and Michigan next week. If I can get the charge up on the starter battery, maybe I won't have to worry about anything except what to do later to correct discharge in a battery that's sitting a lot and not receiving the tender ministrations of the alternator. It's a Diagnostic! No it's a Solution! It's Muddledthought!

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Old 12-15-2012, 09:29 PM   #62
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I looked a second time at your reply, Tom. I wondered the first time what you meant by back power. No trailer connector involved; jumper cables between the two batteries is what I envisioned. I guess maybe your scenario would work also as the charging circuit thru the connector is closed when the ignition is open. Anyway, I've got nothing but time and the tug can sit there headon with the hood up. I am sort of wary about the vehicle circuitry as I know less than anything at all about it.

Unfortunately, Fig 9 in the battery tender info says I can't just jump red to red and black to black between the two batteries so I guess I should steer clear of a method which requires a bit more in the way of rerouting connections to batt terminals. I could fiddle it with a coule of set of jumper cables maybe but I think I'll let this half-baked idea die. Boo hoo.

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Old 12-15-2012, 10:26 PM   #63
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OR? Could take the house battery out of the equation. Remove the converter cables from the battery on the tongue and jump directly to the truck batt.

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Old 12-16-2012, 05:34 AM   #64
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I looked a second time at your reply, Tom. I wondered the first time what you meant by back power. No trailer connector involved; jumper cables between the two batteries is what I envisioned. I guess maybe your scenario would work also as the charging circuit thru the connector is closed when the ignition is open. Anyway, I've got nothing but time and the tug can sit there head on with the hood up. I am sort of wary about the vehicle circuitry as I know less than anything at all about it.
Jumper cables should work, too. I assumed connection via trailer plug. At low amps, you could just wire a plug in for the cigarette lighter, too, assuming it is live with the key off.

Quote:
Unfortunately, Fig 9 in the battery tender info says I can't just jump red to red and black to black between the two batteries so I guess I should steer clear of a method which requires a bit more in the way of rerouting connections to batt terminals. I could fiddle it with a coule of set of jumper cables maybe but I think I'll let this half-baked idea die. Boo hoo.
I don't read that (below). Did you look at the wrong figure?
Quote:
In Figure 9 we see a pair of 12-volt batteries connected in parallel. This 12-volt battery pack is connected to a single 12-volt charger. Note the blue wire designated W1. The purpose of this wire is to balance the voltage drop evenly across both batteries and each wire during charging. This is not critical for lower current chargers, but when you start to get into the 10 amp and above range, the voltage differential can be significant. The blue wire W1 must be connected to the opposite end of the battery pack as the black wire at the top of the battery pack.
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OR? Could take the house battery out of the equation. Remove the converter cables from the battery on the tongue and jump directly to the truck batt.

jack
Yes, that should work as well. All you are doing is using the converter as a battery maintainer, except for your truck. At this low charge rate you could use a much lighter wire with alligator clips
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:31 AM   #65
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I had the correct Fig. 9. Too lazy to deal with the more complicated physical connection. Thanks for the advice. I'll wait until Monday and, if the weather is decent, I might try charging the tug batt. Leaving later in week. Possible that the battery will react well to extended driving and pick up some charge.

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Old 12-16-2012, 06:56 AM   #66
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I had the correct Fig. 9. Too lazy to deal with the more complicated physical connection. Thanks for the advice. I'll wait until Monday and, if the weather is decent, I might try charging the tug batt. Leaving later in week. Possible that the battery will react well to extended driving and pick up some charge.

Jack
Yea, drive it and charge it. The solar mini-charger is not a bad recommendation if you can plug into a hot cigarette lighter socket.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:14 AM   #67
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Got one of those "auxilliary port" voltmeters which is showing 9+/- cranking voltage in my truck.

jack
A battery measuring below 10.5 volts is usually considered in need of replacement. Might want to have it tested. If it tests ok then perhaps your "auxiliary port" voltmeter might be in need of calibration . Raz
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:42 AM   #68
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I'll run out and put the multimeter on it. No question it's at "rest" most of the time

jack

12.19V slowly rising for about 1.5 minutes. Maybe the electrons were just waking up. My stick it in the socket gadget cost about as much or more than my multimeter. I trust the multimeter because it always reads .04V under stated charging voltage for all three rates of the Progressive Dynamics converter. That's precision. There's something else that this reinforces. What was it?
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:30 PM   #69
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There's something else that this reinforces. What was it?
With retirement come new challenges .
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:05 PM   #70
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vetustior humo!
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