Installing a 12v DC refrigerator in a Lil Snoozy - Page 8 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-29-2014, 01:14 AM   #99
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Ouch, this trailer sounds a lot heavier than I thought it would be which is really too bad. Must be the large amount of wood or the double wall construction, at least it sounds double wall. I would have thought it would weigh no more than the scamp at about 2,000 lbs.

I really like this design but it looks like I'm back to looking at the Scamp or others.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:00 AM   #100
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Ouch, this trailer sounds a lot heavier than I thought it would be which is really too bad. Must be the large amount of wood or the double wall construction, at least it sounds double wall. I would have thought it would weigh no more than the scamp at about 2,000 lbs.

I really like this design but it looks like I'm back to looking at the Scamp or others.

I see the Lil Snoozy factory website now has raised the weight spec to 2500 lbs. Mine was supposed to be 2150 lbs but actual weight after my mods was 2850 lbs. It's also 18'6" long, about 18" longer than a Scamp 16 both inside and out.

Everybody wants a light trailer. Manufacturers tend to understate weight to attract customers. The "real world weights" thread here is a lot more reliable data.


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Old 07-29-2014, 01:29 PM   #101
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My empty shell Hauley is supposed to weigh about 1200 lb. A person could buy one like that from Snoozy and finish the interior himself, thus keeping the weight low (if that were a high priority).
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Old 07-29-2014, 02:04 PM   #102
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Everybody wants a light trailer. Manufacturers tend to understate weight to attract customers. The "real world weights" thread here is a lot more reliable data.

In an interview with Jay Leno a while back he said "everybody lies about sex and electricity (refering to electric car's range)". I guess we can add weights of FGRVs to the list.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:29 PM   #103
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I think the total depth of the DF130 is 20 " but how deep is it from the back edge of the mounting flange to the very back of the unit?
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:25 PM   #104
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18.5"
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:00 PM   #105
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Thanks Denny.

So if the galley cabinet is 23", I'm guessing on this, then there is 18.5" to the outside wall at the widest point to the back of the fridge.

So the question still is will it clear the wheel well.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:54 PM   #106
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Thanks Denny.

So if the galley cabinet is 23", I'm guessing on this, then there is 18.5" to the outside wall at the widest point to the back of the fridge.

So the question still is will it clear the wheel well.

The flange goes outside the face frame of your cabinet. If the outside of the frame is 23" from the inside of the exterior wall then you would have (23-18.5) 4.5 inches from the back of the fridge to the exterior wall.

Doesn't sound like it would clear the wheel well. In my Snoozy the wheels are outside the trailer body.


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Old 06-06-2016, 07:40 AM   #107
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Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy
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Smile Your Truck Fridge install tutorial!:)

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The 110V AC Magic Chef 3.6 cu. ft. refrigerator that came with the trailer has not worked out so well. We just replaced it with a 12V DC 4.2 cu. ft. Truckfridge model TF130. The two year old Magic Chef dorm fridge always worked fine on 120v shore power and initially worked fine running off the 600w inverter too but as time went on it got harder and harder to start with battery power through the inverter. By last month it wouldn't start at all. Even with electric hookups at all the places we camp this means the fridge doesn't work while driving. An all day drive is long enough to have the freezer defrost itself and melt water to run onto the floor.

The Magic Chef manual states specifically not to use it in an RV and my theory is that the trailer hitting bumps caused the motor - compressor unit to wear and gradually require more power to start. That would be no problem when plugged into the normal 1800w 15amp shore power circuit but became a big problem when limited to the 600w max inverter output. It's operating consumption is only 80w, the rule of thumb states starting load should be 5x or 400w but the 600w, 900w for two seconds, inverter can no longer start it.

The Truckfridge is a rebranded Indel B unit made mainly for marine use. It used a high quality Danfoss compressor. Subjectively it is much quieter than the Magic Chef and is much more efficient. It has 17% more capacity yet uses 40% less power. We should be able to manage 3-4 days of off-grid camping.

The new 12v fridge is wider but shorter than the old one so the cabinet frame needed to be cut back and the electrical panel moved an inch forward to accommodate the greater width. The new unit is 3" shorter so I had room to add a 2" high drawer under the counter, perfect for silverware and cooking utensils.
Attachment 68284
Here's the fridge space with the Magic Chef removed. The face frame must be cut back flush with the 1/2 plywood cabinet side and the wiring bundle must be rearranged so as to lay as flat as possible against the plywood.
Attachment 68285
I stripped the outer black insulation from the 30 amp shore power feed to the AC panel and relocated the neutral and ground bus bars against the outside wall so they are behind the new fridge rather than beside it, restricting width.

The lower wires are for the DPDT switch used to connect a pair of outlet boxes and the USB power strip to either inverter output or shore power output. I also added a SPST switch in the +12v line to the fridge so it can be turned off easily without using the thermostat inside the fridge. This wasn't strictly necessary but I wanted the extra convenience.
Attachment 68286
Attachment 68287
The fridge needs a level platform to support the feet and needs to have at least an inch between the floor and the bottom of the fridge for air flow to cool the compressor. The supports need to be contoured on the bottom to fit the Snoozy's curved floor. I used 1 1/2 x 1 1/8 wood with an 1/8 deep x 1 wide groove to guide the feet as the fridge is slid into place.
Attachment 68288
I added another layer of 3/4" oak to the cabinet side and replaced the 1/2" Snoozy panel frame with one 3/4" thick and made a 3/4 frame for the DC switches. This was necessary to move the backs of the circuit breakers, fuses and switch terminals forward to avoid interfering with the side of the fridge.
Attachment 68289
Inside view of revised wiring.
Attachment 68290
Fridge installed. Note the trim flange screwed to the cabinet face frame. The feet support the weight and the flange holds the fridge in place. There is also a positive lock on the the door so no more forgetting to latch the old door for travel.
Attachment 68291
The new fridge left a 3 gap from its top the the underside of the countertop. That left room for a 2" high x 20 wide x 16" deep drawer. Self closing drawer slides (from Lowes) will keep it shut when traveling.
This is so GREAT McDenny!! Please ignore the private message I sent asking for exactly this information!! Wonnnnderful!!! omgosh...so complete!! Thank you!!! You're the best!!
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