Installing a front dinette while retaining bunks, couch and porta-potti in 13' Scamp" - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-04-2015, 10:23 PM   #29
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Name: Ray
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Missouri
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Actually, without the shower, my intended mod should be much simpler.

I have already built a wooden platform that the porta-potti can sit on to bring it up to
home facility height. That platform could sit over the top of a table post base in the
bottom of that cabinet.

My plan would be to leave the front of the trailer in sofa/bunk-bed mode most of the time.
At night (or when desired), the center cushion and compartment top could be removed
to make the porta-potti usable right where it normally sits in that cabinet.

If the cabinet top was opened and the porta-potti+platform were removed (and stowed
in the tow vehicle or ???), a table post and table top could possibly be set up.

The under-sofa storage compartments would remain available for storing other gear.
That is important to me in a Scamp13 with the 54" bed. Because of the loss of other
storage space with the 54" bed, every cubic inch of storage space extremely valuable!
Simply converting that single sofa cushion to a 3-cushion setup makes it much easier
to get access to those under-sofa storage compartments ... even with some stuff piled
on part of the sofa. 😀

Just my current thinking .....

Eventually, if I get it done as planned, we'll see how it all works out. 😉

Ray







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Old 04-05-2015, 03:18 PM   #30
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Name: Jim
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Ray,

Now I have a better understanding of your proposed project.

After your first post I envisioned you cutting a hole in the center section of fiberglass with a lift-out hatch. Then the porta-pottie lid would be flipped up also and the “party-of-the-first-part” would slide their back bacon through the fiberglass cut-out to drop down and rest on the porta-potti for the “logistical operations”. I could see some complications there.

I see now that is probably not what you have in mind. I am not clear though how the porta potti would still fit in the current space after having been raised to home facility height. There is not much clearance available for doing that, or am I missing something here.

Your having an understanding that your desired objective of preserving as much space as possible after any mods is good for you. It's keeps your project on target.

Jim
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:54 PM   #31
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Shower hanging system

Mike,

I took photos of the shower hanging system. I used the flat type clear Command hooks from 3-M, cut out the area in the Ensolite, cross-hatch gouged the fiberglass with a utility knife, and hot-melt glued the hook to the ceiling. They are fairly inconspicuous and notice them only if looking for them.

The cord is the stretch type used to make bungie cords. Can be bought by the foot at Ace Hdw. The cord can be put up without being precise about individual hangers, but I did put a black mark on the cord for the location of each hook. It keeps tension on the entire shower curtain so there is no need for the numerous hanger hooks.

When finished showering, just unhook it, shake it into the pan, and lay it over the hood of your vehicle or on picnic table, it will be dry in just a few minutes. No worry about mold or mildew in a humid bathroom.

You can raise the left front corner of the pan to chase all the water into the drain in the right rear corner.

I used the white, medium shower liner from W-M. It is thinner, easier and smaller to fold than the regular
plastic shower curtain.

The system is quick and easy, my two criteria for most things any more!
Attached Thumbnails
Shower hanging system.jpg   Shower hook up-close.jpg  

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Old 04-06-2015, 06:11 PM   #32
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Great ideas and well done Jim! Thanks for sharing these.
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:36 PM   #33
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Name: Ray
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Missouri
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Jim,

The 3-cushion sofa is/was supposed to make access to the under sofa
storage compartments easier (even with the bunk bed configuration
and some stuff/bedding piled on one side or the other) and facilitate
a possible mod to allow the porta-potti to be used, on some trips,
right in the same spot where it normally travels.

The wooden platform previously used to raise the Dometic Sanni-potti
to "facility height" is/was 4" tall and was intended for use in an outdoor
"privacy tent" or in a corner of the "dance floor" inside the Scamp.

As I'm sure you know, without an adjustable height platform, the most
added height that I could get with the porta-potti in its current spot is
about 2".

Whenever we get a small twinge of 3-foot-itis, it's because we would like
more private indoor OBF (what Dennis Archer calls "onboard facilities")
and more storage space for use on longer journeys.

Moving the porta-potti off of the "dance floor" would also make it easer
to put in a "privacy curtain" between the 54" bed and the porta-potti
space.

Similar to what you did, I had intended to open up that cabinet by
cutting up from the current opening for the porta-potti cabinet door
and then cutting toward the front of the trailer to a spot just aft of
where the sofa back cushion sits. I would then put .5" plywood on
either side of that area to support the fiberglass sofa-bottom fiberglass.
A top lid for that area would also have an attached vertical piece of
plywood which would cover the hole where the old cabinet door was
also and provide support for the lid to that area.

We had a setup like that in our old StarCraft Starmaster 21 (or was it
the Venture?) pop-up tent trailer.

In the pop-up, when the lid was raised (and the attached vertical piece
came up with it), the two pieces of plywood could be secured in the
upright position with a catch mounted on the side of the sink cabinet.
To similarly secure the two pieces of plywood in the Scamp, I had
considered snap attached to cord/cable that could be run around
the top bunk attachment point.

At that point, the porta-potti (sitting on a 2" raised platform) would be
exposed and could be used right in the spot where it normally is stored.

Although we really like most everything about our Scamp13 L1 with the
54" bed, you do lose a little storage space and the 54" bed does extend
an extra 10" into the "dance floor" space.

On a positive note, the 54" bed and bunk beds recently allowed us to
sleep my wife, myself, and 3 grandkids (two 12year old twins [boy+girl]
and one 10yo girl).
We slept 5 in our Scamp13 with 54" bed
We slept 5 in our Scamp13 with 54" bed

On that same trip, we also registered 25 mpg towing the Scamp at
59 mph. I'm guess it might be difficult to get that same economy
and utility from some of the 16ft trailers. See later segments in the
following thread:
Towing a 16' Scamp with small diesel
Towing a 16' Scamp with small diesel

Although we want to keep the bunk-beds capability for some trips, there
will often be trips when it is just my wife and I traveling around. Those
would be the trips where it would certainly be nice to be able to use the
porta-potti in its normal storage spot .... especially on nights (or days?)
where there is major thunderstorm going on outside or we are parked
far far away from a bathroom with flush toilets.

With your creativity, I'm sure you could also envision a way of putting a
table-post base of some sort below the porta-potti platform so that we
could maybe occasionally have a front dinette if we really wanted it.
Right now, we sometimes use a fold-flat portable table for meals where
we are just sitting on the front sofa.

In case you hadn't seen them, pictures of our Scamp interior/exterior
can be found in some of the later segments of the following thread:
Scamp Full Size Bed = Smaller Table Size
Scamp Full Size Bed = Smaller Table Size

We have only had our 2014 Scamp since October of 2013 and we are
still learning how to make the best use of the space available to us.

Sorry this rambled a bit .....

We will see how things work out as future trips unfold.

Ray
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:37 PM   #34
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Jim, good pictures, thanks. I can see the cords on the other side going to the curtain rod, too.
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:31 AM   #35
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Oklahoma
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Jim, I was wondering if you had a close-up photo of the "H" shaped wooden frane work, that is in the front dinette area, that holds the metal table attachment?

From overall views, it appears that the frame work is constructed from 1" x 4" boards. Is that anywhere close?

Is the top of the "H" frame work glued/screwed to the bottom of the top bunk flange?

Again, I'd like to say you have really done, and are still doing, a great service for the Fiberglass RV members, with your sharing of all the improvements you have made!

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:10 AM   #36
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Ray,

So you are talking about cutting up a Scamp less than two years old??? Do you have any idea the s***storm that is headed your way when your wife finds out about your bright idea. You are likely to wake up some morning with all your power tools in your bed with the electric cords cut off!

Btw, I know Nooothing.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:23 AM   #37
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H frame

Bill,

I did use 1 x 4's, not the regular pine ones, but those in the moldings dept. It's a better grade of wood and has rounded edges on it to give it a more finished look.

I didn't have a way to do half-laps, etc, so I used butt joints and glassed it on the back with two long narrow strips of matting, and then screwed on an aluminum angle across the full back also for insurance.

I used construction adhesive on the bottom vertical pieces, and pre-drilled and screwed two long sheet rock screws in from the top of the shelf for the top ends of the vertical pieces. I cut the Ensolite and put in the screws, then allowed the Ensolite to cover the heads again when fully in. You don't even know they are there.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:54 AM   #38
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Diane,

Nice to hear the positive responses to my project. It is also interesting to receive them from females who have seen and commented on many types of modifications or feel more confident taking on their own larger projects.

I may get an ear full regarding that silicone seal thingy from DonnaD, but hey, old habits die hard. I was probably using silicone when she was still kicking slats out of her cradle!
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:01 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Bill,

I did use 1 x 4's, not the regular pine ones, but those in the moldings dept. It's a better grade of wood and has rounded edges on it to give it a more finished look.

I didn't have a way to do half-laps, etc, so I used butt joints and glassed it on the back with two long narrow strips of matting, and then screwed on an aluminum angle across the full back also for insurance.

I used construction adhesive on the bottom vertical pieces, and pre-drilled and screwed two long sheet rock screws in from the top of the shelf for the top ends of the vertical pieces. I cut the Ensolite and put in the screws, then allowed the Ensolite to cover the heads again when fully in. You don't even know they are there.
Thanks Jim!

One additional question...is the frame-work off-set from the front shell, or is it flush against the shell?

Bill
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:08 AM   #40
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Bill,

It is off-set because the middle of the shell is further out than the bottom of the shell. They are not straight up from each other. So they are flush with the shell at the bottom but are about mid-way from the shell at the top shelf. I used a level to get vertical plumb and locate the top location.

Jim
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:00 PM   #41
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Thanks Jim!

Bill
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:12 AM   #42
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Hello Lisa,

Thanks for the offer, I will keep your information for when I am ready for them. They would be very simple, just sew around the edges and leave some at the top to insert the rod. Just name your price.

Ian G asked and I have given him permission to do a write-up of my modifications with my photos for his Boler-related web site. It will be a little bit yet until I have covered all aspects related to the mods. I imagine he will tweek the information if necessary for adaptation to Bolers.

Since you have an earlier Boler, you may have the type with separate front bunks that have the indented ledge already formed into the top side of them. Wish I had a pair of them, would have saved a ton of time and work in modifying mine. Those front bunks could be worth some real money!
Hi Jim, the cost would cover shipping, materials and maybe enough for a fancy coffee at Starbucks. I love to create stuff and to tinker. Besides, I can use the design for my own new curtains when I do my reno, lol. I am thinking of insulated curtains with a Velcro tab on the corners. Looking forward to it

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