Isolating the water heater tank on my ParkLiner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-25-2013, 08:02 AM   #1
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Isolating the water heater tank on my ParkLiner

Don't mind me folks, I have absolutely no experience with a PEX tool, but hope to start getting some soon.

I'm running a separate line to my hot water tank so it can be isolated before winterization. This saves me from filling the tank with antifreeze. From what I understand, later model ParkLiners are already set up for this. In mine the line just tee'd off to the hot water tank...



If I could get this drain hose off, I could move the water line PEX to where I could get at it easy. I loosened a screw clamp only to find another metal clamp up against the end of the hose tight to the fitting. Best to forget trying to move it?



I have two layout ideas for this line. I think I like the 2nd one best because the PEX doesn't have to curve as much. Whadya'll think?





Thanks for any help, advice, etc.

Frank
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:24 AM   #2
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What you are doing is called a Water Heater Bypass. There are a number of u-tube videos on doing this as well as a lot of hits on Google.

A good PEX tools is a bit pricy, but if one of the small clamp-on type tools are used, the first leak will cost more in time and PITA, than the larger tool.

I
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #3
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What you are doing is called a Water Heater Bypass. There are a number of u-tube videos on doing this as well as a lot of hits on Google.

A good PEX tools is a bit pricy, but if one of the small clamp-on type tools are used, the first leak will cost more in time and PITA, than the larger tool.

I
This is what I bought to do it (the orange thingie). I think it's the right thing?

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Old 10-25-2013, 10:42 AM   #4
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Looks like the right thingy.....
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:55 AM   #5
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Did the first clamp, gage said "go" in one place, but not all around? "No go" didn't go on at all.

Fitted everything. Using Sharkbite that came with the trailer and 1/2" PEX I had laying around. Fittings are tighter in the PEX than the Sharkbite.

What do you think?



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Old 10-25-2013, 01:33 PM   #6
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:21 PM   #7
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You might want to repipe in the bypass. Makes it much easier to fill the hot water line with antifreeze.
The way it piped, how will you get antifreeze to the hot water lines?
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:38 PM   #8
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You might want to repipe in the bypass. Makes it much easier to fill the hot water line with antifreeze.
The way it piped, how will you get antifreeze to the hot water lines?
Missed this post I guess. Bottom line, no clue. How would I do that?

Frank
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:48 PM   #9
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Might have been less expensive just purchasing the bypass kit with the snap in couplings. No apex tool required, etc.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Missed this post I guess. Bottom line, no clue. How would I do that?

Frank
How I do it is to add some anti freeze to the fresh water tank. Open up the hot water tanks by pass and turn on the water pump & away it goes it into the hot water tank line ...... you only need to leave the by pass open for a very short time - just long enough to fill the line. Take cap off the hot water tank drain after to make sure whats running out is actually anti freeze.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:36 PM   #11
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Might have been less expensive just purchasing the bypass kit with the snap in couplings. No apex tool required, etc.
Thanks Darwin, but if I had known such a kit was available, I would have done it. I had no clue.

Frank
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:10 AM   #12
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You might want to repipe in the bypass. Makes it much easier to fill the hot water line with antifreeze.
The way it piped, how will you get antifreeze to the hot water lines?
Frank,
FYI, here's what I do. After pumping anti-freeze into the cold water side, I briefly open and close the bypass valve to get anti-freeze into the cold inlet side of the water heater. Then I open the hot and cold valves on the shower, but with the push button shut off at the shower head closed. This will force anti-freeze from the cold water side of the shower valve through the hot water side and through the piping back to the hot water outlet side of the water heater.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:34 AM   #13
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Frank,
FYI, here's what I do. After pumping anti-freeze into the cold water side, I briefly open and close the bypass valve to get anti-freeze into the cold inlet side of the water heater. Then I open the hot and cold valves on the shower, but with the push button shut off at the shower head closed. This will force anti-freeze from the cold water side of the shower valve through the hot water side and through the piping back to the hot water outlet side of the water heater.
Gee, I need to remember this for next year! Thanks Brian. Man, it's always something!

Frank
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:06 PM   #14
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Just a word of caution - when running the anti freeze from the fresh water side into the hot water side - in particular the shower head you would be surprised how much water remains in the hot water lines - even after you have emptied out the hot water tank. In particular the shower as its often the longest of the hot water lines from the hot water tank location. I recommend turning on the hot water taps to see the colour of the water running out - you may find that for the first 39 secs or so it is highly diluted anti freeze. Anti Freeze is pretty cheap in comparison of repairing plumping due to lack of anti freeze.
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