It Started as a Kitchen Reno- Project Boler - Page 18 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-31-2014, 05:54 PM   #239
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Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
This molding is called "one piece locking window gasket", a main supplier is TrimLoc. You will need a profile that fits 1/8" edge and 3/16"-1/4" glass.
Here is an example" LK987 - One-Piece Locking Gaskets - Trim-Lok "
Hello Ian, great show off in Oregon I hear!

Question for you on this locking gasket for the fixed front and back windows:

How did you terminate the inside of the trim, if this spec is for 1/8" I assume, did you install the seal "over" your insulation layer and your liner? or how!?

do you have some pictures to show?

I am concerned this is a very Finished spot and the solution needs to be neat...
Much appreciated,
Luis
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:13 PM   #240
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis View Post
Hello Ian, great show off in Oregon I hear!

Question for you on this locking gasket for the fixed front and back windows:

How did you terminate the inside of the trim, if this spec is for 1/8" I assume, did you install the seal "over" your insulation layer and your liner? or how!?

do you have some pictures to show?

I am concerned this is a very Finished spot and the solution needs to be neat...
Much appreciated,
Luis
This molding is a replacement option for the original 2 piece locking gasket used for the front and rear acrylic widows. The fiberglass around the window is about 1/8" thick, you install this molding right over the ensulite insulation attached to the shell, yes this has a total thickness over 1/8" but there are 2 factors to consider; 1) the insulation will compress to almost nothing; 2) the actual window thickness is 3/16" so the wider body thickness is compensated in the thinner window section. With the seal over the insulation the look is excellent and the seal is water tight.

I can take picture tomorrow and post them.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:11 PM   #241
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis View Post
Hello Ian, great show off in Oregon I hear!
Ian (and Joan's) was one of the more "toured" trailers of the Oregon Gathering. Honestly the pics don't do it justice. I went and looked a couple of times!
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Old 08-01-2014, 01:13 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
This molding is a replacement option for the original 2 piece locking gasket used for the front and rear acrylic widows. The fiberglass around the window is about 1/8" thick, you install this molding right over the ensulite insulation attached to the shell, yes this has a total thickness over 1/8" but there are 2 factors to consider; 1) the insulation will compress to almost nothing; 2) the actual window thickness is 3/16" so the wider body thickness is compensated in the thinner window section. With the seal over the insulation the look is excellent and the seal is water tight.

I can take picture tomorrow and post them.
A Pic is worth a thousand words!
thanks.

I follow, and agree, insulation is very compressible thats not the concern.
The question is with the hull liner (carpet like material) installed with tack adhesive on top of the 1/4 high density foam.

do you place the gasket on top of this layer too, or do you install only over insulation and then fishing the liner to match the rubber seal!!!!

...looking forward to your pics.
Luis
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Old 08-01-2014, 04:15 PM   #243
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Yes Lois, I see your view

My Boler does not have Hull Liner, I have left the "Elephant Skin" insulation in.
Here are some shot from both the outside and inside, I think you will agree this looks good from either angle.






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Old 08-02-2014, 12:20 AM   #244
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Hey Luis,

I'm no expert, but I did just put hull liner in my little Boler. We put the hull lining up to the moulding and cut it long enough so I could tack it in with a thin putty knife. So my thought would be to pull the hull liner back a little bit and up the moulding on and then do the same? That said, we were working with some existing insulation my grandpa had put in after the original moulding was in place, so I think the moulding on mine is UNDER the insulating (or the insulation just comes right up to it? Can't recall) and then the hull lining is put on top and tucked in as I described.

Wow. I actually think I might have made this MORE confusing, not less. Sorry. But maybe it makes sense


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Old 08-02-2014, 07:56 AM   #245
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If your unit has insulation under a hulliner I would trim back the insulation where the molding seats but leave the hulliner right to the window opening, The molding would then hold the hulliner completly and it would look good.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:40 PM   #246
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Laser Leveling for your Trailer

One day I thought there has to be an easier way to check the level of the trailer when setting up camp.

We currently use a bubble level on the counter but this requires adjusting one corner or end then running inside the trailer to check the level running to the appropriate corner to make an adjustment running back to check.
This sounds more like an exercise program that the simple task of leveling your trailer.

I came up with this unique solution, by using a self-leveling laser level I set it up so it could be swiveled to aim at the side wall and to the back wall inside the trailer.

Mount the bracket and laser to an appropriate location, one that can allow you to see the laser lines on the inside walls by looking through windows close to your leveling points.

Making sure the trailer is leveled using the conventional bubble levels, and then place small reference marks on the walls that aligns with the laser cross-hairs.
Now when I pull into a campsite I turn the laser on and point it at the side wall, immediately I know how many blocks I need under the tires to get close to level.

With the trailer on the leveling blocks I can look through the back window and adjust the side-to-side level, then I swing the laser to aim at the rear wall and looking through the front window I level the trailer back to front.

More pictures are posted on my blog Proud Canadian

Laser and bracket set-up


Installed on my closet


Showing laser lines and "target" on the side wall
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:24 AM   #247
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Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
I read somewhere that a beaded curtain will keep bugs out, not sure how true it is but I love the way it looks.



Every time I see pics of your trailer, I am more amazed!
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:10 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
If your unit has insulation under a hulliner I would trim back the insulation where the moulding seats but leave the hulliner right to the window opening, The moulding would then hold the hulliner completely and it would look good.
I think this makes a lot of sense.

this is what I am going to be doing. The width (combined width) of FG shell and hull liner is not going to be excessive and the hull liner is going to keep the foam insulation tight and neat at the moulding.

cheers folks!
Luis.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #249
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Originally Posted by sooveroo View Post
Hey Luis,

I'm no expert, but I did just put hull liner in my little Boler. We put the hull lining up to the moulding and cut it long enough so I could tack it in with a thin putty knife. So my thought would be to pull the hull liner back a little bit and up the moulding on and then do the same? That said, we were working with some existing insulation my grandpa had put in after the original moulding was in place, so I think the moulding on mine is UNDER the insulating (or the insulation just comes right up to it? Can't recall) and then the hull lining is put on top and tucked in as I described.

Wow. I actually think I might have made this MORE confusing, not less. Sorry. But maybe it makes sense


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More confusing, no less!
lol
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:09 PM   #250
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Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
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Rear Lights

Hey Ian, I have a question about how you "frenched" (whatever that term actually means!) the lights in the back. Did you first glass in the cups from the inside and then cut off the lip on the outside, or does it make more sense to cut off the lip and then glass in? I would imagine glass-in first could be easier, but I though I'd ask! Thanks!

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Old 08-18-2014, 03:57 PM   #251
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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
Hey Ian, I have a question about how you "frenched" (whatever that term actually means!) the lights in the back. Did you first glass in the cups from the inside and then cut off the lip on the outside, or does it make more sense to cut off the lip and then glass in? I would imagine glass-in first could be easier, but I though I'd ask! Thanks!

Slav
They are actually still fastened from the outside. I ground off the gel coat on the lip to thin it then used a combination if glassing the bucket in and using smaller head countersink stainless steel pop rivets to secure it. Very little filler was needed to smooth out the area arond the narrowed flange.

Does this make sense?
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:29 AM   #252
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Got it, thanks. It looks amazing. I still have to decide which way to pursue...

Slav
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