Karin's Campster Renovation - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2016, 10:02 AM   #43
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I was going to do that with a wooden handle and epoxy but never did.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:47 PM   #44
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I would be interested in a window pull to replace the one that's missing. Duh, Guess that's pretty obvious.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:31 PM   #45
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I am at the stage in a major renovation when the emotional high of getting all the old pieces torn out has worn off.

Now I have entered the emotional stage when there are so many small things as well as big things to be done "biting" at me that it feels like I have walked into a mosquito infested swamp where I am going insane.

Lots of holes and cracks to be filled..... so I had better get to it. Today I took out the old electrical input which left a big hole and I was filling that in using some of the fiberglass material I saved from the old kitchen surround. I will post some photos of that process when it is completed. I started that project because when I work on the doorway I will be using fiberglass cloth and resin and it will save time to put cloth and resin on the interior of electrical hole patch while I am working on the doorway as the areas are very close to each other. Mix and cleanup once instead of twice. Kill two of those mosquitos with a single swat
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:28 PM   #46
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Screen pattern

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Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer View Post
Ironically, I have screens. But the windows aren't opening (again). When I have time I'll clean them out again and now that I store the trailer inside they'll probably stay cleaner. No handles on my sliding glass, though. I was just pushing them from the outside. I just don't need them to open often up here in Washington. But if anyone needs screen pattern or pictures let me know.
I'm definitely interested in a screen pattern and/or pictures... And since I'm on the east side of the cascades, I expect that I'll need the windows to open in the summer...
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:12 PM   #47
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I took a quick glance at them tonight. (I'm leak-testing the new top by having the trailer sit out in the rain and wind- it passed!) The screen appears to be just set into the window frame. It's not a separate screen. I'll get some pictures tomorrow of how it is done.
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:26 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer View Post
I took a quick glance at them tonight. (I'm leak-testing the new top by having the trailer sit out in the rain and wind- it passed!) The screen appears to be just set into the window frame. It's not a separate screen. I'll get some pictures tomorrow of how it is done.
Congratulations on passing the leak test!

I am looking forward to seeing how the screen was originally done. It will be fun to see the photos on the thread for your Campster. I had noticed that on my Campster the interior center, upright, division bar looks to have been made to have a screen spline inserted in it.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:53 AM   #49
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Passenger side window from the inside. The handle/latch is missing from the other side so I'm interested in what you come up with to replace it. It appears to be held on by glue or some such (no rivets or screws in sight)

There is a spring clip that latches into a grove in the vertical bar. The window is NOT latched in these pictures but you can see the grove where the latch fits...

I figure that a piece of wood or some such in the track should be a good enough latch so I'm not obsessing about the latching part. Besides, right now the windows are hard enough to open without messing with the latch.

I'm also really interested about the screens. I tested a piece from one of the build-it-yourself screen kits in the grove outside the sliding part of the windows and its a good fit. Actually maybe a bit tight. I think I'm going to use some old bits from that kit to rig up something temporary if the bugs get bad when I go camping in a couple weeks. Not a big trip but the first time I'll actually get to sleep in my trailer.
Your window framing appears to be somewhat different than mine. I won't be doing anything elaborate in the way of window pulls or locks. The pull will be a piece of aluminum angle attached directly to the glass with VHB tape. For a latch I use a very easy to find item. You just set it over the metal edge of the bottom track and tighten a thumb screw. I like it because you can position it for having the window open just an inch or so for fresh air but it is still secured from a person trying to slide it open from the outside. Cost for two windows, under $4.00. Most hardware stores carry a variation of this product so if you have lost the lock for your window you can get one while running errands today and then install it in less than 3 seconds. It is called a sliding window lock. Even if you still have the original latching window handle it is a nice item to have for extra security.
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:07 PM   #50
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Here are what I believe are the original screen. Screen doesn't move- it is fixed in the frame.
Attached Thumbnails
Window screen campster - 1 (1).jpg   Window screen campster - 1.jpg  

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Old 06-15-2016, 03:50 PM   #51
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Here are what I believe are the original screen. Screen doesn't move- it is fixed in the frame.
It has gotten warm again here, too hot to work without an open window. As I can't slide my windows open because of all the dirt, moss and deterioration in the felt I am going to pull at least one of my side windows out today to replace the glass run felt. We will see how they made that screen installation work

But I will still make removable screens so I can use a window air conditioner in the open window if I want to do so by realizing they will have to remove the clamp ring.

Thanks for posting the photos it did help us understand how the screening was done. Now others can replace theirs if they want screening. Knowing that it takes removing the clamp ring is valuable information to solving the mystery.
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:32 PM   #52
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I need to get mine opening again- I should do that but I'm chicken to take the windows out.

But it stays pretty cool if the top is up and the back screen is up- though I know actually working in it is different than sitting there. Does your door have a working screen?
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:08 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer View Post
I need to get mine opening again- I should do that but I'm chicken to take the windows out.

But it stays pretty cool if the top is up and the back screen is up- though I know actually working in it is different than sitting there. Does your door have a working screen?
My door is still screened, not removable other than by taking out the spline. That sure makes it difficult to clean the glass
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:16 PM   #54
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Campster original window screen

From the evidence gathered with the help of fellow Campster owners we now know how they installed the screens in the factory and what it takes to replace a missing or damaged screen. You will have to remove the inside window clamp ring to do the job.

See photo below showing the clamp ring removed where the hidden spline groove has been revealed. You will need to use individual segments of spline in between the screw locations that hold the clamp ring in place. That big screw head at the lower edge is possibly a previous owner fix.
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:02 PM   #55
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Campster window removal single handed

No helper for me today so I had to devise a belt and suspender removal plan for taking out the windows. This is how I did it.

First step I used a small tool make for removing O-rings to pull out the putty tape all along the lower edge. It works great for hooking out the putty. This is a very inexpensive item available at auto parts stores and hardware stores. Photo below shows this small tool.


Photo below is of my beautiful assistant that volunteered to hold the window in place so it could not fall while I continued to work on removing it.

Take some clamps and a piece of plywood around a foot or so high and clamp onto the belly band where the upper and lower halves are joined. Because it is hollow underneath you can get a clamps in there and over the edge of the wood. I added a soft foam block that was from packaging material between the wood and glass and put barely any pressure on the window. It is just a gap filler. A rolled up towel would also have worked just fine.

Next step is easy too. Go inside and remove the clamp ring. Remove any excess putty tape that might have squeezed out to the inside.

Next go back outside an pull out the rest of the putty tape. I don't have the arm strength to just yank the window out and I did not want to pry it out so I took my time and used the O-ring tool and pulled out the putty. Work from the bottom edge up towards the top center on each side and there will be no danger of the window falling out. I needed a step stool to stand on so I could reach the top edge so if you are vertically challenged have one handy.

Now if you feel you need to you can hold one hand against the window and remove the clamps with your other hand letting the plywood drop out of the way. Otherwise just use both hands and take the clamps off, the window likely is going no where since it is on an inward slant and will most likely have some pull on it from the small amounts of remaining putty tape.

Just pull on the upper edge of the frame and it will begin to come away from the shell. You can change hand position downwards as you work if needed. Hooray, you are done without needing a helper or a lot of physical strength

Every day try to do something you were afraid to do. That is pretty much the attitude it takes to face working on vintage trailer items such as windows. It is perfectly normal to worry about messing up so don't let it hold you back from getting your project done.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:15 PM   #56
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My philosophy is not to do anything that renders the trailer useless if I can't finish it. At least, not in June. But it is good to see how to do it. I may tackle it in the fall.
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