Larger Frig in 13' Scamp and other Kitchen Modifications - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-31-2016, 06:37 AM   #15
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Name: Donna
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy
Florida
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You're just AMAAAZING Jim!!! WOWZA!!! Thank you!!! for the tremendous inspiration AND directions!! I'm gonna NEED those!! ok...a teensy thing buuuut...how did you attach the rods to the "wall"??? I get that they've got to be the tiny, thin rods, but...how do ya make em stick??? to the wall. BAFFLED here! but learning so MUCH!!! Wish there were "like" buttons here for all these incredible great tips!!
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:57 AM   #16
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Trailer: Tote N Tarry
California
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Wow, it looks fantastic! Could you please post some links to where you bought the sink/stove combo, and the cost of such a unit? I like the way it's so easy to clean having it all in one. Thank you!
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:07 PM   #17
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Name: Jim
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Donna,

I did in fact use the real small rods that were on the door window. They are the straight ones with a hole on each end. I also used the hanger that was there and fastened it to the top of each side of the new window frame with a screw. There is a screw at the top end of the window frame that holds it together, so you have to drill the hole for the hanger back a bit to stay away from it.

An important note, you should fasten the hanger first and then measure the length of the curtains, unlike me who made the curtains, then tried to hang them. I turned out they were a little too long. I sure was not going to redo them, so I had to raise the hanger and use only the bottom hole in it. I then bent over the top part. It is soft brass, so no difficulty bending them.

There was one advantage to the mistake though in that the curtains are positioned higher to the very top of the window frame so they fully cover the frame edges and screws. I took a close up of the hanger from the side that kind of makes it look crude, but the curtains actually cover everything well. It is tight up under the top cabinets so nobody will see nuttin.

On the other hand, there is nothing to keep you from using the larger rods and just extending them out to the sides a little further, as with all the other window curtains.

Photos are attached to illustrate the hanger both straight when drilled, and also when the top part is bent back over.

I then replaced the rod on the door with a top and bottom rod of the exact same style as Scamp used for all the other windows. I just cut them to shorten them to fit the width of the door. I now keeps them from flying around when the door is open.
Attached Thumbnails
Curtain rod 1.jpg   Curtain rod 2.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2016, 03:14 PM   #18
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Name: Jim
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Filbert,

Glad you like the changes. It is a very quality unit with nice features. It's easy to clean, the burners are a little closer together so you can use both to cook bacon and eggs without the other end of the pan not being heated as well. YOu can see it in the photo below. It also has a thermocoupler on the knobs so if the flame goes out, the gas flow is stopped. You can also turn the burner all the way down without it going out. It also seems to heat faster than the old stove.

I bought mine from American RV for $283.19 because they advertised theirs as having a Piezo igniter, and shipping was $7.77. Wellll, there is a long story to the order. It turned out to not have the igniter after all, but they did honor the shipping of only $7.77 even though someone probably messed up and they had to ship it from the UK and it took a couple of weeks. Amy in marketing was very good in trying to track down what happened. Their listing now says that shipping has to be calculated. They did send a free seal from SMEV that goes around the bottom edge of the sink to prevent liquids from getting under it. You can see it in the photo below.

https://www.americanrvcompany.com

Dyers RV currently has one at a clearance price of $289.99 plus shipping. Their photo shows it as having an igniter, but is not listed as a feature. Best to check with them before ordering. That is the issue that I had with American RV and they have since corrected that on their site. It appears they had copied the ad from Dometic International's site that has the igniter in Europe, but not on the model shipped to the US. Who know why not?

Dometic Stainless Steel Combination 2-Burner Cooktop with Sink - Kitchen Sinks - Sinks - Sink & Drain - Plumbing


However, perhaps the safest route to buy from is Panther RV, who has one for $367.00 but includes a nice looking fold-down faucet. They are in Washington and were good at answering my questions. Others on this site have also dealt with them and were pleased. I didn't need the faucet as I had the Shur-Flow electric already, and American RV's price was a little cheaper so I bought from them.

http://www.panther-rvproducts.com/ma...m1plqscsfapp05


They have the additional gas regulator installed that is needed to make the stove compatible with US standards, and gas fittings.

Dometic/SMEV is very difficult to work with and doesn't return your emails unless you are an OEM RV manufacturer, and the selection of their products available in the US is very limited, as compared to what they have in Europe. They really need to get their marketing/distribution act together.
Attached Thumbnails
SMEV Burners.jpg   Dometic 0911 - Top view - Grill removed.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2016, 05:31 PM   #19
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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I can't say sewing is easy, but in Aircraft work I have had to learn how to do it.
A good seam ripper is a godsend. If you rip out the seams and layout the fabric on a flat surface and just copy what you found it can be done!
Seat cushions curtains etc. can be copied if not easily expeditiously.
At least in a trailer you don't have to have FAA certified fabrics!
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:36 PM   #20
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Trailer: 1976 Boler 1300
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Wow. That's about all I can say. Nicely done, we've got this one bookmarked.
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:01 AM   #21
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Name: Donna
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy
Florida
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curtain rod how to!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Donna,

I did in fact use the real small rods that were on the door window. They are the straight ones with a hole on each end. I also used the hanger that was there and fastened it to the top of each side of the new window frame with a screw. There is a screw at the top end of the window frame that holds it together, so you have to drill the hole for the hanger back a bit to stay away from it.

An important note, you should fasten the hanger first and then measure the length of the curtains, unlike me who made the curtains, then tried to hang them. I turned out they were a little too long. I sure was not going to redo them, so I had to raise the hanger and use only the bottom hole in it. I then bent over the top part. It is soft brass, so no difficulty bending them.

There was one advantage to the mistake though in that the curtains are positioned higher to the very top of the window frame so they fully cover the frame edges and screws. I took a close up of the hanger from the side that kind of makes it look crude, but the curtains actually cover everything well. It is tight up under the top cabinets so nobody will see nuttin.

On the other hand, there is nothing to keep you from using the larger rods and just extending them out to the sides a little further, as with all the other window curtains.

Photos are attached to illustrate the hanger both straight when drilled, and also when the top part is bent back over.

I then replaced the rod on the door with a top and bottom rod of the exact same style as Scamp used for all the other windows. I just cut them to shorten them to fit the width of the door. I now keeps them from flying around when the door is open.
Brilllliant Scamper Jim!!! Such great up close photo's too...that's going to be SO helpful!!So appreciate your help!!
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Old 06-24-2017, 03:26 PM   #22
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp
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An update on the kitchen project

I have finished making all the changes I could think of to make the kitchen more handy and am posting some pics of what I did last summer.

Removed the upper cabinet, eliminated the rivets, and glassed in short pieces of 1 x 2s for new support.

Cut and modified the openings in the upper cabinet. Changed the cabinet doors to lift-up style and installed roll-out drawers. I left the far right one for taller type food boxes.

Put a metal support bracket on the right side of the upper cabinet

Installed new style lighting fixtures

Made a removable work board for the left end of the cabinet for more food prep area.

Put in the refrigerator door wood insert

Painted all the door in the camper a yellow/gold color
Attached Thumbnails
Kitchen done.jpg   Kitchen Upper cabinet 004.jpg  

Kitchen Upper cabinet 006.jpg  
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Old 06-24-2017, 03:38 PM   #23
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Name: Jim
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Removable Food Prep Work Board

This is a removable cutting board I attached to the end of the counter to serve as a food prep work area. It is cantilevered past the end so there is still easy access to the sink when set up.

It is supported with the locking rail on the counter and a support rod from below that prevents the board from raising up if it is bumped. The rod just folds down and the board placed back over the sink when not in use.
Attached Thumbnails
Scamp 006.jpg   Scamp 005.jpg  

Scamp 036.jpg  
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Old 06-24-2017, 04:46 PM   #24
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Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
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Very nice Jim! Love the slide out upper cabinets!
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