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Old 01-11-2013, 03:15 PM   #1
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Name: Don
Trailer: '79 Boler 1700RGH
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Leaf spring replacements

Hi guys, so on the way home I had the main leaf in my leaf pack break.. What is the recommended weight rating for a replacement? The local parts store that carries trailer springs has 1250lb, 1300lb and 1750lb rated trailer springs. Should I just go with the 1750lb spring or should I think about a softer one for making the ride nicer for my egg?

PS I just drove 5800KM from Vancouver to Tuscon and back.. found lots of neat weaknesses in my trailer
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:56 PM   #2
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I can't answer your specific question, but I'd replace the other side with the same brand new rated spring at the same time. Leaf springs have a tendency to relax and you're liable to be lopsided, if even a little bit. That may cause different wear on your tires. I call this cheap insurance. YMMV
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinslayer View Post
Should I just go with the 1750lb spring or should I think about a softer one for making the ride nicer for my egg?
Get a pair of the 1750's, and replace both sides at the same time. A 17' trailer's suspension should be able to handle 3500 lbs. The lighter rated springs won't be softer or nicer; they'll just break faster.

If you want a nicer ride, consider adding shock absorbers.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:39 PM   #4
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Of course i'm changing both at the same time! That's the only way to do it.. I'm actually replacing the entire axle, springs, perches and brakes. I might consider shocks when I get in there to see if it is viable - I would suspect it would help with sway/rock as well as give a nicer ride..

Fred, nice writeup link, thanks, I might end up doing that!

*edit, except the not replacing ubolts bit.. that's a big no no - for anyone doing this you need to buy new ubolts - they are designed to stretch to fit and can only be used once.

**edit edit, ok he used new ubolts hahah - I was worried when he said he used wd40 to get them off instead of a grinder.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:18 PM   #5
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And shackles and bushings....
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:28 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Kinslayer View Post
PS I just drove 5800KM from Vancouver to Tuscon and back.. found lots of neat weaknesses in my trailer
Hi Don, How was that drive? I was hoping to do it this winter as well but won't do any mountain driving until I get trailer brakes? What's your tug? How were the passes? Do you have AC? Tucson is still daytime hot in the winter.

ps sorry for the thread hijack, good information coming out of this thread.
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:10 PM   #7
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Hi Don, How was that drive? I was hoping to do it this winter as well but won't do any mountain driving until I get trailer brakes? What's your tug? How were the passes? Do you have AC? Tucson is still daytime hot in the winter.

ps sorry for the thread hijack, good information coming out of this thread.


Drive was nice..long.. was raining in washington/oregon both directions.. I would suggest trailer brakes for sure though depending on what you are towing with and what.. at one point I lost trailer brakes and it was still reasonable with the tow rig I was using though - borrowed my Dads Dodge diesel 2500 for the trip - great mileage and power through the hills.

On the way down we went through Grants pass and the Redwood forest, some snow on the sides of the road but nothing major.

It was hot through the desert but tuscon was only warm when the wind stopped, but still a little chilly.. like..15c kind of temps. I COULD have used AC through the desert but the wife is cold blooded so ya heh, wasn't unbearable though.

If you want to tow slowly (sight seeing etc) I'd suggest the coast roads (hwy 101) both directions..winds around quite a bit, some steep grades but if you are doing 30-40mph it doesn't matter much. The diesel was great for the hills but at that speed anything with low end torque would do for an egg..trailer brakes I would suggest in any situation.. pretty sure you could go to princess auto and get a set of brakes and a controller and anything else you need for under 300 bucks.. A full axle is $350 with brakes installed if you wanted to go that route and a decent controller is about $100.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #8
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And shackles and bushings....
Bushings come with the springs so that's a given. As for shackles i'm keeping the factory ones because they are just flat bar with holes drilled in them.. not wear parts. Ubolts are 1 use only as they stretch.

The replacement axle is going to be a straight 3500 unit with new brakes - i'll have to weld up new perches as the factory location is too wide for the under-frame hanger location... I'm hoping that with either sprung under or over config i'll be able to actually have a boler that doesn't drag it's ass on the way out of gas stations and maybe actually sit level when hitched up with my cherokee (6 inches of lift) with a 10 inch drop bracket or maybe maybe maybe even less.

This recent trip showed me some issues that I need to address, so it's going to be a while before I get out again! That being said, I discovered I can live pretty much full time in the 17 footer with wife and dog..3 weeks or 3 months don't make much of a difference besides wear and tear.
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