LED lighting in Casita - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-30-2008, 11:31 PM   #29
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How many campers does it take to screw in a light bulb?

This is getting so complicated that I'm just gonna remain an observer and wait for the next generation of LEDs, or maybe the one after.

And, on that note, I think I'll go to bed. It's getting dark.

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Old 12-01-2008, 12:59 AM   #30
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They claim the bulbs will work on anything from 8 to 30VDC so they can be used in either 12 or 24VDC applications.
The 78xx series of voltage regulators accept inputs up to 30 volts DC, so they probably do have a 7812 built into the circuit. As for the "current limiting resistor," that's part of any well-designed LED circuit. Like I said earlier, an LED circuit is made of a battery, resistor, and one to three LEDs.
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:35 AM   #31
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My first pass at LED substitutes quickly started burning out individual LEDs of the array. I assumed it was due to the high voltage the charger was holding the battery at.

The "buck" driver LEDs have lasted a couple years with all LEDs in the array still working.

I didn't do any rustic camping last summer, but most summers I do a fair amount. I'm a bit of a bookworm and read for hours pass twilight and I felt the LEDs would help defer "generator" time a bit.

LEDs are pretty robust so I'm not worried about them rattling about, but perhaps a very small dab of clear silicone would tidy up the installation.
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:08 PM   #32
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The 78xx series of voltage regulators accept inputs up to 30 volts DC, so they probably do have a 7812 built into the circuit. As for the "current limiting resistor," that's part of any well-designed LED circuit. Like I said earlier, an LED circuit is made of a battery, resistor, and one to three LEDs.
Your right Peter,I suspect that to. It can be a constant courrant buck regulator or some kind of pulse switching voltage regulator circuit .Here some link for reference only http://www.dimensionengineering.com/AnyVoltMicro.htm
http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/datash...27-BuckToot.pdf

My suggestion was for china cheap buy Leds board assembly like the 36 Leds I got for $5 not for those expensive board superbrightlite sold, I didn't check and test them to find out if they already got a regulator circuit but I suspect they only got a resistor and this explain why the dont last long so a cheap not effective solution like a 7812 look more appealing for this task.
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:31 PM   #33
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Hey guys first post. I also replaced all my (exterior) lights with LEDs on my boler.

I'm not sure if it uses a simple resistor circuit internally or a buck/boost circuit. Either way it seems to work very well and has (so far) stood up to a hard summer of camping!

Here is a youtube video I did when I first installed the lights.



And

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3175/274455...8602e8e5c_b.jpg
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:39 AM   #34
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I don't know if this is a good price or not, but I found these on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-Energy-Saving-12V-...%3A1|240%3A1318


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Old 12-12-2008, 05:34 AM   #35
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I don't know if this is a good price or not, but I found these on ebay...
Good price, but: Item location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:52 PM   #36
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[quote]I don't know if this is a good price or not, but I found these on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-Energy-Saving-12V-...%3A1|240%3A1318


Attachment 17154


Well . . . At $1.00 each they sound too good to be true.

Oh, wait, $10.00 for shipping . . .

And no information on power consumption or light output . . .

And "super white" LEDs? I think they're talking about "ultra white" LEDs which are the least expensive white color LEDs on the market and have a distinctly blue-white color. That's a fine color for outdoor lighting, but most people find it's awfully harsh for interior lighting.

And there's no mention of a voltage regulator or "buck" driver to protect the LEDs when you're running on shore power.

None of this says they're a bad deal, but I'd think very carefully before I buy.
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Old 12-13-2008, 12:53 PM   #37
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These look a lot like the ones SuperBright carries -- I wonder if SB subs out the making to an Asian manf...

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Old 12-13-2008, 05:40 PM   #38
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can anyone help us?? we are interested in using less battery power to provide us interior lighting...but also have to consider that our fridge runs on battery and electric only. we do like to boondock but wonder what are our best options ---do we consider switching to LED lights for the interior, or augmenting our lights with dome LEDs as we have now, (the ones that just stick on) ...and how does all this factor in to the amount of battery power we need to run the fridge.?
like glenn, we do enjoy sitting out by the fire at night, and really try to conserve our 12 volt battery "juice"....but are constantly conscious of not using too much. any thoughts or ideas???
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:06 PM   #39
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[quote]I don't know if this is a good price or not, but I found these on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-Energy-Saving-12V-...%3A1|240%3A1318


Attachment 17154


I already got 3 set (6pack) and test them ,my testing result are 12V/264mA/90Lumens with a clear lens, They dont have a buck regulator circuit just 18 SM resistor under the board , they cost about 5 or 6$ each with shipping so nothing to complaint. They will not last forever but if like me you never use more then 3 lights at the same time you got 3 spares!
The wise thing to do is not moding all your inside light ,keep some bulb and use them when you're running on shore power this way your Leds will last very long. You use your light about what? 4Hours per night? They can last 500Hrs or 1000Hrs or... Nobody got a clue...buy 2 and test them next summer It's cheap and they do the job! (lower battery discharge)

Here a picture of the light they produce with a clear lens

Click image for larger version

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PS :G...I forgot Superbrightled are import from China! Almost all led board or assembled there...
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:28 PM   #40
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can anyone help us?? we are interested in using less battery power to provide us interior lighting...but also have to consider that our fridge runs on battery and electric only. we do like to boondock but wonder what are our best options ---do we consider switching to LED lights for the interior, or augmenting our lights with dome LEDs as we have now, (the ones that just stick on) ...and how does all this factor in to the amount of battery power we need to run the fridge.?
like glenn, we do enjoy sitting out by the fire at night, and really try to conserve our 12 volt battery "juice"....but are constantly conscious of not using too much. any thoughts or ideas???
Running a fridge on 12V is the worst scenario possible in dry camping, your best option is to change your fridge for a LP unit it's the cheaper one to(I assume you got a 3 cubic feets fridge in your trailer) a generator (2000W+gaz) or a solar system setup
(panel/regulator/twinT105battery) will cust you more. No mather how conscious you are your fridge will alway's require to much power.
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