LED lights in Original light sockets - tail lights - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-03-2009, 07:57 PM   #57
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Frederick -

HOW did you manage to get a "Permanent trailer" license?
Link to previous California PTI discussion

I think your Scamp 19' 5th wheel may not qualify.
The trailer must be no longer than 16' from ball socket to back wall, and my Fiber Stream qualified.
However, someone in that past thread DID get a 5th wheel Bigfoot into the program...
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:02 PM   #58
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[quote]As you can see our light fixtures are horribly rusted. I was thinking of removing the main center bulb, and hard wiring the led light in it's place, and gluing it to the center of the backing. Has anyone else done this?

Attachment 17749

If it were me, I'd change out the entire fixture like Greg A did, and not try to retrofit components into the old housings.
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:15 PM   #59
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Thanx for the link.. read it ALL... VERY VERY interesting. And, no, I don't think the 19'er would qualify as 16' or less. UNLESS I could somehow work it as some kind of Metric Conversion.




Quote:
Link to previous California PTI discussion

I think your Scamp 19' 5th wheel may not qualify.
The trailer must be no longer than 16' from ball socket to back wall, and my Fiber Stream qualified.
However, someone in that past thread DID get a 5th wheel Bigfoot into the program...
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:08 PM   #60
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On the 19 isn't the "ball Socket" set back in a couple of feet under the overhang and not out on a tongue. If you measured from the "ball socket to the back wall" you might be pretty close. Maybe that is how the one fella got it through.
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Old 02-04-2009, 12:32 AM   #61
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April,

Just an oddball thought on your two bulbs. Is the small one is a single filament and the larger one a two filament 1157? You have 3 wires running to the bulbs plus the white to the ground.

If so the small bulb might be wired as your tail or running light - always on when your lights are on. And the larger bulb is for your brake and turn signals. If it was wired that way all 3 could be on at the same time. Your brakes would show as being brighter without affecting the signal. Adding the signal would make it even brighter. (I don't know if I explained that right)

It would give you the following light patterns:

none
tail
brake
signal
tail + brake
tail + signal
brake + signal
tail + brake + signal
(signal could be 4 way emergency flasher too)
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:16 AM   #62
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Certainly worth a quick measure what ELSE is there to do over the winter. hahahaha.

And from what I recall reading last nite, it is ball socket to the END OF THE COACH, ##NOT## to the end of the bumper - which COULD be the small but oh-so-important difference.

Not to mention that if i am REALLY close, there is the metric conversion thing....


Quote:
On the 19 isn't the "ball Socket" set back in a couple of feet under the overhang and not out on a tongue. If you measured from the "ball socket to the back wall" you might be pretty close. Maybe that is how the one fella got it through.
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Old 02-04-2009, 11:40 AM   #63
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Quote:
If it were me, I'd change out the entire fixture like Greg A did, and not try to retrofit components into the old housings.
I think we are going to try hard wiring the LED panel and bypass (or remove)the main socket all together. If all goes well, it should look something like this photoshop image...

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I am hoping to make do with what we already have on hand before we go buy new light fixtures. I also like the idea sticking with the original look. I will report back when we get the work done, which should be soon because we can't take any trips until this is fixed. Thanks for all the advice!!
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:26 PM   #64
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April, et al... for what it's worth, this information found on this page at SuperBright LEDs

Quote:
Which Color LEDs should I use ?
For best results the LED color should be the same as the lens color. As an example: a red lens will filter out all but the red portion of the light so if the light is all red, none or very little light will be blocked by the lens. The light from a White LED contains very little light in the red portion of the visible spectrum so most of the light would be filtered out by a red lens.
I had friend that ended up replacing his white light LEDs to red, and there was a huge difference.
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:34 PM   #65
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Quote:
On the 19 isn't the "ball Socket" set back in a couple of feet under the overhang and not out on a tongue. If you measured from the "ball socket to the back wall" you might be pretty close. Maybe that is how the one fella got it through.
Don't have it anymore so not able to measure it for you but from this picture I would say the hitch is 12 - 18 inches ahead of the front wall.
Don

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Old 02-09-2009, 01:53 PM   #66
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Update,
we ordered the correctly wired 36 "super white" led to install in the tail lights, and they were a big let down.

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They looked blue, instead of super white as shown in the picture, and they were dimmer than the regular 1157 bulb. So we are having to scrap our plan and start again. I did find the wire that leads to the other upside down bulb is not connected to anything, so when we upgrade our pigtail, we will hook that wire up to see if those lights work. At this point we are thinking of just replacing the socket with a new one and going with this style red led bulb...

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Old 02-09-2009, 10:31 PM   #67
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I have an extra socket in mine as well which wasn't hooked up. I connected it into the signal/stop wire and added a cheap 12 led red bulb to boost the 1157 bulb, but it didn't help much either.

I've added a direct ground wire by soldering a new wire directly to the outside of the socket so it's not relying on the riveted connection through the base. I even ran a temp. wire outside the trailer directly from the van back to the bulb to double check the ground. I think I've narrowed the problem down the the tail light converter, it's only reading about 11.8 volts so I'll double check it's wiring or get a new one.

One thing to note with those white superbright LED lights, the wavelength of LEDs is very narrow and white leds have very little red so once the red lens filters out the rest, you just have a dim light. They recommend you get actual red LEDs to go behind a red lens.

This photo is before I added the extra ground wire.

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Old 02-10-2009, 12:10 AM   #68
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Someone previously posted using a stock round 4" LED tail light inside the wedding cake with pictures. Supposedly an almost perfect fit. I bought some but still have to get a round tuit.

Alternatively others have stated the 7" is a straight bolt on.
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:33 PM   #69
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Quote:
Someone previously posted using a stock round 4" LED tail light inside the wedding cake with pictures. Supposedly an almost perfect fit. I bought some but still have to get a round tuit.

Alternatively others have stated the 7" is a straight bolt on.
I was looking at those, thanks for the idea! I might just have to go that way.
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:13 PM   #70
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I just put in the red LEDs shown in April's message for our lights this past weekend. They are at least as bright as the old bulbs. I also put in the amber LEDs at the same time and put small red and amber LEDs in the running lights. It also helped to use a plastic lens restorer to get more light through the tail lens.
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