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04-05-2016, 05:00 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Let's talk drain pumps
Morning guys & gals! Since starting our restoration project/modification last year, along the way I find something about our design that needs improving upon or tweaking as many others fiberglass rv owners have also. So to our design we added a bathroom to our '71 Boler with a large utility tub as a multi-purpose shower, sink, tub, washing machine all in one wonder ....
The drain initially I intended to be a gravity drain but out of several trips and testing, on 2 occasions we had drain issues. The first was with connections to the RV park sewer, as our RV was not high enough above the rv drain hookup to promote efficient draining and the second was with our portable gray tank with similar issue but maybe more affected by not having a vent in the gray tank to expel air inside the tank as the water filled it. So, I am back at the drawing board, adding a P-trap and looking at a pump solution to maximize drain efficiency. Couple of things, 1 our camper to ground clearance makes me worry about a sump pump type box under the shower of being to close to the ground, prefer the 12v pump be low amp draw for off grid use and cost is also a factor and would like to keep the pump on the low budget side.
I considered a macerator pump but don't think it will be necessary since we have a porta pottie that has its own black tank. So I was thinking of adding just a small SeaFlo water pump on the drain line with its own switch so we can turn it on only when needed. Since it will be below the shower pan priming should not be an issue and it should work with either the portable gray tank or rv sewer hookup. I would like any feedback and to know what others have done.
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04-05-2016, 08:01 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
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There are pumps to drain showers on boats that connect directly to the floor drain with a hose .No sump pan or float switch necessary. You just turn the pump on when the shower pan starts to get full. I think a small marine bilge pump would also work with a container for a sump if you want to go that way. A float switch might be necessary with a sump tank. Check a marine parts web sight like West Marine.
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04-05-2016, 08:30 AM
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#3
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Member
Name: Sands
Trailer: Escape
Arizona
Posts: 92
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My 2003 Scamp has an in line Shurflo pump mounted under the floor of the shower, on/off switch on the shower wall just below the light. Works fine. Helps the water get from the shower pan to the waste tank. Turn pump on; take shower; turn pump off. Shurflo can run dry without damage, so don't need to worry about the amount of water going down the drain. I think this was factory installed (I didn't do it), but it would be a very simple installation.
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04-05-2016, 09:30 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M
I considered a macerator pump but don't think it will be necessary since we have a porta pottie that has its own black tank. So I was thinking of adding just a small SeaFlo water pump on the drain line with its own switch so we can turn it on only when needed. Since it will be below the shower pan priming should not be an issue and it should work with either the portable gray tank or rv sewer hookup. I would like any feedback and to know what others have done.
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If you wanted to keep it VERY simple get yourself a portable tank that has more than one hose attachment on it - mine came with an attachment for a garden sized hose or the large slinky hose. If filling with the garden hose attachment just open the larger hose attachment up a bit for air.
The other option is to add a pump under the trailer similar to what Scamp uses to pump water from the front shower to the rear grey tank. A read of the thread Relocating Shower Pump on Scamp 16 may be worth a read - it has some pictures of how it is done.
BTW my Scamp has a pump on the underside that is much smaller than what Scamp puts on the trailers today and sells on their website so can not comment on how variable it might be to being hit. Mine has a switch on the inside bathroom wall to turn on and off.
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04-05-2016, 05:32 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands
My 2003 Scamp has an in line Shurflo pump mounted under the floor of the shower, on/off switch on the shower wall just below the light. Works fine. Helps the water get from the shower pan to the waste tank. Turn pump on; take shower; turn pump off. Shurflo can run dry without damage, so don't need to worry about the amount of water going down the drain. I think this was factory installed (I didn't do it), but it would be a very simple installation.
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Would love to see a picture of the pump, might help with my mod.
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04-05-2016, 05:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
If you wanted to keep it VERY simple get yourself a portable tank that has more than one hose attachment on it - mine came with an attachment for a garden sized hose or the large slinky hose. If filling with the garden hose attachment just open the larger hose attachment up a bit for air.
The other option is to add a pump under the trailer similar to what Scamp uses to pump water from the front shower to the rear grey tank. A read of the thread Relocating Shower Pump on Scamp 16 may be worth a read - it has some pictures of how it is done.
BTW my Scamp has a pump on the underside that is much smaller than what Scamp puts on the trailers today and sells on their website so can not comment on how variable it might be to being hit. Mine has a switch on the inside bathroom wall to turn on and off.
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Thanks Carol, we have and use the Zebra covered bucket, a collapsible portable gray water tank made for that purpose, the cap is suppose to let the water drain in, but I think in our case the shower drain line is not high enough above the bucket when it is on the ground to properly drain, air flow maybe an issue but a pump I think would solve the issue for that and rv sewer hookups as well. I considered a hard type gray water container, seen one that would work in Walmart for about $12 (gray color) in camp isle, but top would need modifying for my use and doesn't solve the rv sewer hookup unless I just manually dump it down. A pump sounds the easiest but maybe not the cheapest solution. I will check out the link too, maybe that will give me an idea...thank you!
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04-05-2016, 06:10 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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Here is one way, but I couldn't get the sump low enough to work correctly.
If you look carefully you can see the drain for my shower and the filter ahead of the pump which is not visible on the other side of the pan
The problem with the white sump and sump is that you also need access to the top so that the lint filter can be cleaned.
These are used on many boats and is usually installed in the bilge. Not an option on the Scamp the way I built it.
I actually think that if the shower pan was modified to have a drain slot added on the side that connected to a slightly lower sump with the pump and an access panel above this would work good.
If you want to try the sump outfit I will give you a good discount on the one I did not use.
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04-05-2016, 06:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55
Here is one way, but I couldn't get the sump low enough to work correctly.
If you look carefully you can see the drain for my shower and the filter ahead of the pump which is not visible on the other side of the pan
The problem with the white sump and sump is that you also need access to the top so that the lint filter can be cleaned.
These are used on many boats and is usually installed in the bilge. Not an option on the Scamp the way I built it.
I actually think that if the shower pan was modified to have a drain slot added on the side that connected to a slightly lower sump with the pump and an access panel above this would work good.
If you want to try the sump outfit I will give you a good discount on the one I did not use.
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JD I was looking at those sump pumps last night on eBay and Amazon, but I think I may do something similar to what you did. Does yours work on a manual switch or an automatic switch or sensor? What are you asking for the sump pump in case I change my mind?
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04-05-2016, 06:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M
Would love to see a picture of the pump, might help with my mod.
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There are photos of the Scamp pump installed in the link to the thread I shared with you.
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04-05-2016, 06:34 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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The white sump and pump has a level switch built into the pump. The pump is a repurposed bilge pump and the strainer was added in the sump.
My guess is that if you built a sump for the water to flow into then the sump could be made to work, but you need to be careful to keep the ground clearance for protecting the stuff down below.
If a slot were made in the side and the pan were sloped towards it then you could use that to feed the pump.
The sump pump could ne placed in a shallow sump and t could work.
The setup I ended up with is almost the same as the Scamp setup and it seems to work pretty good.
I used the Scamp drain setup (the white drain with the side outlet.)
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04-05-2016, 06:35 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Thanks Carol H
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04-05-2016, 06:37 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55
The white sump and pump has a level switch built into the pump. The pump is a repurposed bilge pump and the strainer was added in the sump.
My guess is that if you built a sump for the water to flow into then the sump could be made to work, but you need to be careful to keep the ground clearance for protecting the stuff down below.
If a slot were made in the side and the pan were sloped towards it then you could use that to feed the pump.
The sump pump could ne placed in a shallow sump and t could work.
The setup I ended up with is almost the same as the Scamp setup and it seems to work pretty good.
I used the Scamp drain setup (the white drain with the side outlet.)
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That's a P trap correct?
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04-05-2016, 06:39 PM
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#13
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Member
Name: Sands
Trailer: Escape
Arizona
Posts: 92
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pics of Scamp shower drain pump install
Attached is what the pump on my Scamp looks. Hope it helps.
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04-05-2016, 06:49 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Sands yes that helps a lot thank you!
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04-05-2016, 07:01 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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My setup is very similar except that the shower pan s even with the lower edge of the frame so that there is more headroom.
The pump is on the underside of the closet floor by the door.
The pump has plenty of lift to drain the shower pan.
The short P trap and the hose ekkp the pump from sucking air with any water in the pan.
I use the pump as the anti drain back valve and the shower has a foot operated seal that clicks open and shut.
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04-06-2016, 11:52 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55
My setup is very similar except that the shower pan s even with the lower edge of the frame so that there is more headroom.
The pump is on the underside of the closet floor by the door.
The pump has plenty of lift to drain the shower pan.
The short P trap and the hose ekkp the pump from sucking air with any water in the pan.
I use the pump as the anti drain back valve and the shower has a foot operated seal that clicks open and shut.
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can you post a picture of the foot operated seal? How much do you want for the sump pump?
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04-08-2016, 06:01 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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If you want to see one go the Lowe's and look at the tub drains. You will find several that you push down to seal and push on one side to open.
It seems to work OK.
I have not seen and need as yet to close it since the check valves in the pump keeps the water from flowing back into the shower pan.
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04-08-2016, 06:36 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55
If you want to see one go the Lowe's and look at the tub drains. You will find several that you push down to seal and push on one side to open.
It seems to work OK.
I have not seen and need as yet to close it since the check valves in the pump keeps the water from flowing back into the shower pan.
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Thanks, I am sure I will be there sometime this weekend so I'll check it out...
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