Lots of scamp modifications - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-07-2003, 08:17 PM   #15
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Hi Tom,
Thank you for explaining. It sounds like it's working well for you. I had pictured something like it to put a solar panel on the roof without touching the shell. I think I'll probably support my roof from the inside somehow. You've done a great job bringing that egg back from the brink.
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Old 06-08-2003, 11:47 AM   #16
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I LOVE your trailer! The paint job makes it unique and special. How cool! Thanks so much for posting the pictures of it.

Nancy
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Old 06-08-2003, 02:10 PM   #17
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Thank you Nancy

For the nice compliments.

Also Maggie, I pondered for weeks on how to support or lift the roof from he inside. I couln't think of anything that didn't cut down on the interior headroom or make a visual space barier. If everyone ou know is a little less tall then that wouldn't be an issue.

I think it is a good question for you to post
I won't post it because I have it solved for me.

PS
Am plannig to mount my solar on the rack like you are thinking.
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Old 06-08-2003, 03:46 PM   #18
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saggy roof. as I've mentioned before, My roof is drooping. or I should say WAS drooping. when I measured the first time I had a wash tup upside down (vent had a hole in it) over the vent. = 1.5 inch drop = water puddle
removed tub = 1/2 inch drop
remove vent = no drop at all.
now I have to decide. vent or no vent and plug the hole.
I'm still working on a solution, I want that vent.
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Old 06-09-2003, 07:25 PM   #19
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I know what you mean.

A roof vent is where all the heat goes out....can't imagine not having one.

In your case I believe that the sag is primarily caused by inadequate roof structure. And the vent being firmly attached IS structure.

I have no doubt that if you were to push up your roof with a 2x4 from the inside while you firmly rivet in your new vent that it would hold the roof up in place.. adding the rigidity that is now lacking

I also have no doubt that it is not the extra couple ounces of the weight of a vent that is causing the sag. It is surely that the hole leaves the ability to flex.

My sag was really bad. Unlike the sound of yours
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Old 06-15-2003, 11:36 PM   #20
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more paint yet

Just in case anyone wants more pictures, here's another. I need one of those "TV artists" to help me make the rocks look real<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eed495fa038bt giraffe.jpg/>
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:21 AM   #21
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Too, too cute. That door and those hinges are a crowning touch.

Good job! :)
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:11 PM   #22
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Mods

I think that since you painted all those flowers with shadows etc, you
can also do the rocks very well, without any help. That is a very unique idea to paint it in a cottage style. Very nice, neat and tidy looking
"Art Project". "you know you can do it!!"
Willma
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Old 06-16-2003, 08:35 PM   #23
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redone rocks

Thanks Willma, for the encouraging words...

I've already tried numerous times to get rock shading... I must be missing some trick...

If you were to see the flowers up close you wouldn't necessarily think they are well done. The shadows there is just a black sharpie marker.

A marker doesn't work well for rock shading, and my brush strokes are wrong.

I may just leave it as is. It's better than anything else I've been able to do.
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Old 06-17-2003, 09:24 AM   #24
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Rock issues

I have had some luck in the past with using a pallet with two or three colors on it. Perhaps try working on a piece of scrap wood so you can see the effects. My technique usually involves putting three coordinating colors (say light tan, dark tan and a light brown) close to each other on the pallet, then using a sea sponge to dip a little of each. You want the colors to run together but not completely mix. Then dab on the "rock." Get a little more and dab on some more. Use more of the darker colors on the bottom and edges of the "rock." Keep your shadows consistent (shadow the same side of adjoining rocks. If you want the ricks to be different colors and textures, then do every fifth rock with one mix of paint. Then go back and do every other fifth rock with a slightly differnt mix, etc.

If you can't find or don't have a sea sponge, you might try a regular kitchen sponge. Gently tear off the edges and take a few pieces out of the middle in an irregular pattern so you don't get straight lines in the paint. In either case, rotate the sponge with each dab so you don't create identical shapes in the rocks.

For coordinating rock colors, you might need to start with one small can of tan, one cream and one brown and mix lighter and darker shades to suit your needs.

Good luck!
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Old 06-17-2003, 01:05 PM   #25
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Great hints

:ola Dear JR, Those were just the kinds of hints I needed. I was attempting to put one color on at a time. I wasn't getting the blend. Also the sea sponge sounds much better than a brush.

Thanks a million. I will post the results one day.
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Old 06-18-2003, 03:58 PM   #26
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Glad to help

All those hours I spent watching craft and decorating shows on tv weren't a complete waste. :lol2

A friend of mine is trying to talk me into staying with her until her military husband comes back in November. She is attempting to lure me with the promise of all the cable I can watch. Just what I need, no job and unlimited access to the Learning Channel!!!

Hey, Jana, where's the couch potato watching tv smilie? All I can find is the smilie who lost the remote. :hiding
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Old 06-19-2003, 05:09 PM   #27
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:wave Love your little cottage. I saw the picture of the dolly mounted on the front of your trailer. How is is mounted? I just bought one from Habour Frieght. It is $49, free shipping, of anyone is interested.
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Old 06-19-2003, 06:14 PM   #28
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Got mine there too....

:wave :wave

Hello Mary,

I got my dolly at Harbor freight too. There are times I want to move the unit around and the car isn't attached. So I thought best to always have the dolly with the Skimp. (My name for the egg)

Mounting it was easy. I bought a strip of metal, bent a couple of U's from it and welded them to the top of the frame. then I drilled a hole through each U so that I could put a pin through that would hold the dolly axle from lifting out of the U's.

If you do the same but don't want to weld, PLEASE remember that you should NEVER drill into the top or bottom of the frame to put bolts into.
You can however, drill into the sides of the frame without the loss of strength. It is a compression/tension thing. It is prefered though to NOT drill. That is why I welded.
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