Making a voltage/current control panel... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-09-2010, 05:00 PM   #15
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
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Originally Posted by Terry G View Post
Here's the schematic for the system.
Great job. I would make one suggestion, put a .1ufd ceramic capacitor across the shunt. This should eliminate the possibility of ground noise getting into any audio/video equipment you might want to use.

Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:04 PM   #16
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1996 Casita Freedom Deluxe 17 ft
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Originally Posted by Dave Bese View Post
Fine job; could you list part numbers? I checked the site and there are several variants of parts.
Dave, This is a suggested parts list using 4 1/2 digit red panel meters from Stock and availability seem to fluctuate a bit so I would suggest calling the company and asking them about what you want to do before you order. Different sizes and LED colors are available but not always listed on the site. The meters I used are no longer available.

4 1/2 digit red 20A current meter EPM-8145R20A
4 1/2 digit red 20V voltage meter EPM-8145R20V
20A Shunt (Must match meter.) ES20A
12V to 12V isolation module EPS-1212CSW2

And some other notes:
1) The panel is a 10" x 4" piece of .032 brass available at many hobby and hardware stores. The meters snap in place, so I had to use a nibbler to rough cut the openings and then a file get the exact fit.
2) The frame for the panel is a simple box out of 1 x 2 stock. I fastened it to the partition with small "L" braces.
3) The wire from the battery to the shunt and power switch should be fairly big. 8 gauge is recommended.
4) The current meter will be destroyed if it is not isolated. Make sure you use the module.
4) Electronic parts hate to be wired wrong and this will usually turn them into useless hunks of smoking junk. Check your work carefully.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any more questions, let me know.

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