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07-10-2014, 06:19 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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either way Butyl tape is great stuff!
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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07-10-2014, 06:47 PM
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#22
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Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: '75 Trillium 1300
Arizona
Posts: 92
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We're currently having some major trouble drilling out the rivets in the existing vent. I might start a new post asking about our rivet issues.
We can drill thru them, but they're not budging.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-10-2014, 07:35 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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I feel your pain! Mine was over-zealously riveted in place as well. I started with a small bit and went slowly larger till the head popped off onto the drill bit(then i knew what size bit to use). It was a scary job in a way, afraid to make the holes too large. But if it makes ya feel any better mine has survived many hard downpours with no leaks! I Love my MaxxAir fan, and I pretty much always leave it open to keep heat rising out of my ParkLiner...even when it is just sitting in the driveway.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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07-14-2014, 11:35 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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I started with a huge bit. The head pops off when you get through the cap. I didn't drill all the way through. When using a huge bit, it is important to keep the bit centered on the rivet.
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07-14-2014, 02:31 PM
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#25
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Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: '75 Trillium 1300
Arizona
Posts: 92
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The rivets were all crooked and poorly installed. DH had to drill thru from the top to break them because they were all coated with some white goop. After, he changed to a larger bit and drilled them thru while I pulled them off the bit from the inside. Not sure if it was the best way, but we got them all out once we figured out a system.
On Saturday, he epoxied and and used butyl tape for the painted frame. It's still in the garage with c-clamps holding it on. We'll try to drop the vent in and screw it down tonight if the weather cooperates.
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07-14-2014, 02:52 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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I'm a bit confused. You both epoxied, and butyl taped it? Should be one or the other, not both.
I would recommend building the frame on a flat surface with 45° corners epoxied together. Then, epoxying the frame to the trailer, after sanding the gel coat, either down to the fibreglass, or just to rough it up to assist adhesion. Then butyl tape between the frame, and the fan. Then rivets through the holes in the flange on the fan, into the hollow frame.
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08-18-2014, 10:24 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Clayton
Trailer: 1975 Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 238
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Hey David, did you do the install on your MaxxAir fan yet? I just received mine today from Amazon and wondering what you used for the spacer?
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08-26-2014, 01:09 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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No install yet. The kid has not coughed up the cash. I guess I am going to save it for when I find a front dinette 4500.
I found a source for the 1" fiberglass square tube, in Canada:
Maple Leaf Communications - Fiberglass Products
At $7 per ft, they are comparable to Graingers price.
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09-05-2014, 09:29 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Clayton
Trailer: 1975 Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 238
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Awesome! Thanks for the link, I am going to order the square tube on Monday.
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