MaxxFan Installation

[Brian B-P]

I replaced the front roof vent in my Boler a couple of years ago. Here's the story...

Removal of the old vent

The existing vent may not have been original, but it was in the original style. It worked, but was very noisy, the small fan was ineffective, and it couldn't be left open in rain.




I don't have any photos of the orignal vent installation on the inside, but removing four screws allowed the inside trim to pull off.

On the outside, I scraped off piles of various sealants, removed the self-tapping screws which held the vent flange to the fiberglass, and pulled it off.




The next job, of course, was to clean up the area, inside and out. On the inside, there was a set of four plywood strips as some sort of spacer, which were delaminating and garbage. Some of the screws even forced the spacer down, splitting it; I suppose they were supposed to be screwed into the spacer.

[Brian B-P]

Preparging for installation of the new vent

I test-fit the MaxxFan's mounting flange in the opening, and realized that even the four corner screw holes would not line up. I used a couple of them, and re-drilled the rest.




From the inside, the test-fit with the whole vent in place showed that it would protrude as expected, and gave me a chance to look at how the spacer might fit in.




The wide flange on the MaxxFan would hang out over the front of the raised mounting area, so I positioned it as far back as practical in the existing opening.




I measured the protrusion of the inside face of the MaxxFan from face of the mounting flange, which will be above the outside surface of the roof, by the thickness of the sealant. The first photo is the assembled vent, complete except for the inside trim, sitting upside down with a ruler in place. The second photo is a closer detail; the vent is still upside-down but I rotated the photo to show it the way it sits in the trailer.

[Brian B-P]

Installing the new vent

The vent area in my B1700 is sloped and curved, and shaped to provide a level and flat mounting area for the vent, with very little space around the opening in the raised area. I needed spacers move the interior trim down to fit the fan properly, and to fit the spacers into this shape, the one closer to the roof is deliberately smaller; with a simpler roof shape, a simple single spacer of the desired thickness would work fine. Both are plywood, of different thicknesses. The photos show the MaxxFan mounting flange with the two spacers, then the spacers stacked on the flange, as they will be when mounted (except that they're updside down, and of course the roof is missing from the stack!)


[attachment=9341:attachm
ent]

I ran two side-by-side strips of butyl putty on the flange, and placed it into the hole. After bolting it down, I removed the extra putty which squeezed out.

Rather than screw into the fiberglass (like the original installation) or even into the wood spacer (which would be better), I embedded tee nuts into the lower spacer, and used machine screws (not self-tapping screws). The screws are stainless steel, but as I recall the tee nuts are not. This is just a detail from the previous photo:




And here it is at last: the flange is screwed into the spacers, and the fan is dropped into the flange.

[Brian B-P]

Finished installation

The interior trim goes on with some screws, in my case into the lower plywood spacer. I pinned the interior lining material between the spacer and MaxxFan trim piece; it was more than flexible enough to make the transition. This is the soft vinyl-faced polyfoam typically used in 17' Bolers; other lining materials might not be soft enough to do this. I made the spacers thick enough that the knobs don't protrude; they could be thinner (leaving the trim higher) if desired. The second image shows the surrounding area - you can see how it fits into the curves of the ceiling.




From the outside, at a point of view at the same height as the vent, here are the final results, open and closed. The rear vent (replacement, but stock style) is visible for comparison. Yes, the roof does sag in the middle - the mounting areas for the vents would be level if not for the sag.

[Bolero1780]

This is great Brian! This is exactly what we need to see to replace our cracked vent.

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Finished installation

The interior trim goes on with some screws, in my case into the lower plywood spacer. I pinned the interior lining material between the spacer and MaxxFan trim piece; it was more than flexible enough to make the transition. This is the soft vinyl-faced polyfoam typically used in 17' Bolers; other lining materials might not be soft enough to do this. I made the spacers thick enough that the knobs don't protrude; they could be thinner (leaving the trim higher) if desired. The second image shows the surrounding area - you can see how it fits into the curves of the ceiling.

Attachment 7477


From the outside, at a point of view at the same height as the vent, here are the final results, open and closed. The rear vent (replacement, but stock style) is visible for comparison. Yes, the roof does sag in the middle - the mounting areas for the vents would be level if not for the sag.

Attachment 7479

[Mike Magee]

I'm sure you will enjoy that new fan. Nice job!

[Brian E Moon]

Great job! Thanks for the pictures. I was looking at the same Maxx air vent for out 13' Boler to replace the original Herr 12"

Cheers!

[Hambone]

Basically did same install on mine ( spacers ect.) simply love it.. able to keep vent open, is sturdier when opened than others, various speeds, reversing........

[Kelly H]

Has anyone installed one of these on a Trillium? We have a '75 1300. I'm assuming the roof is just as thin in all of these, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. We already have a 14"x14" hole, not the 9"x9" I've read that some have.

[deryk]

Worse comes to worst you have to add a spacer ring which wouldn't be a big deal to make.

Im very happy with mine. For example, since the rain doesn't get in I leave mine open in the driveway....well saturday it was in the mid 80's and I had a project to work on...well the garage was pretty hot but when I stepped inside my ParkLiner the trailer was pretty comfortable with the hot air rising out the open vent. Its worth it for that alone imho.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Kelly H

Has anyone installed one of these on a Trillium? We have a '75 1300. I'm assuming the roof is just as thin in all of these, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. We already have a 14"x14" hole, not the 9"x9" I've read that some have.

I just picked up exactly the same fan on kijiji. I will install in essentially the same way, but I hope to use a synthetic material for the spacer. Fibreglass ideally. I just wish we Canadians could get this stuff:
DYNAFORM Sq Tube,ISOFR,Gry,1/8 Tx1 In OD Sq,10 Ft - Fiberglass Square Tube Stock - 4ATP5|870920 - Grainger Industrial Supply

[FTTRV]

I have installed two of the Max/Air fans in a Bigfoot 19 and 21.
Chuck

[Kelly H]

We have no experience in glassing and it feels a little overwhelming, so if we have to make a spacer, it'll have to be on the inside. Maybe we'll do that LED light mod I saw someone do to remind my 6' tall husband not to bump his head.

[David Tilston]

Kelly, The install by Brian used wood spacers, no glassing required. The fibreglass square tube that I linked to is also just a spacer. I would make a frame that fits the 14" vent, then glue it to the fibreglass. The fan would install into that frame.

[Kelly H]

I had to re-read the entire thread. I didn't realize he made spacers on both the inside and outside. I guess the fiberglass tube from Granger will have a longer life than the wood.
Brian made two spacers on the outside... One a wood spacer and the other a frame. Would the one fiberglass tube replace both of these? And then still have a wood spacer on the inside?

[David Tilston]

No spacer on the inside. the tube would replace all the wood. Like I said, the frame would be glued, with resin, to the top of the trailer, (no leaks). Then, I would drill into the frame and use rivets to attach the fan to the frame. Don't forget the butyl tape.

[Kelly H]

I bought the fiberglass tube y'all recommended and it's on it's way and I just ordered the Maxxair fan w/o remote when it dropped to the lowest price it's ever been on amazon today! Only $195 shipped! (Just a heads up for anyone else in the market.)
Maxxair 00-05100K MaxxFan Ventillation Fan with White Lid and Manual Opening Keypad Control by Maxxair http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/..._VxCQtb01NXCM5

[Kelly H]

Tomorrow might be the big day to begin the install and I wanted to make sure I have all my ducks in a row.
The fiberglass tube is cut and marine epoxy is currently drying on the mitered corners. Tomorrow I'll remove the old vent and then the Grainger fiberglass tube frame is epoxied straight to the roof or do I use butyl tape between there too? Also, I read in another thread about a Fantastic Fan install, does the fiberglass tube need to be painted?
I bought some 2" stainless steel screws to replace the shorter ones that came with the hood hoping they'll be long enough to go thru the top of the vent and tube and into the roof. I hope that'll work instead of rivets.

I'm nervous to start this... I'll take pictures of the progress but I'm worried about botching the whole thing. :/

[deryk]

Kelly I used Butyl tape to seal my MaxxAir Fan in place.

[Kelly H]

Originally Posted by deryk

Kelly I used Butyl tape to seal my MaxxAir Fan in place.

So just between the MaxxAir and the spacer? I don't need it between the spacer and the fiberglass?


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV