Mod diliema need suggestions - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-03-2016, 08:09 PM   #1
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Mod diliema need suggestions

We are trying to finish up the bathroom I've built in our '71 Boler we are restoring. While most front baths in Scamps and Casitas are on the driver side, I made ours on the curb side so we could have a single bed/bunk on the driver side (took out the kitchenette counter to do so). I have the shower stall in the center cutout with the porta pottie next to the door. Not sure how to finish it out it came to me today from another suggestion made by my wife. I am making a cover that wraps around the porta pottie so that only the upper portion of the porta pottie shows and allows for concealment of the shower water lines below. It also allows for storage above and below the cover as this cover meets the top of the shower pan. It will be anchored to the tabs that the original lower bunk attached to for strength. The cutout for the porta pottie is approximately 14"x16" square and the handles to unlatch the top of the pottie from the black tank will be below this trim/cover as well as the handle to lift out the black tank. The cover will be 5/32" plywood covered with 1/16" plastic panel for a finished wet bath look. The problem I am faced with is whether to make 3 hinged doors on each side of the opening that can flip open to access the porta pottie for servicing. Or should I use 3 individual panels with cabinet knobs that just lift out. Either way I don't want any support bracing underneath the cover or the doors to interfere with lifting out the tank. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:15 PM   #2
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Hi John, if I'm reading right, you have some of the framing in ? I think I know what you want to do but any chance you could post a few pics ?
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Hi John, if I'm reading right, you have some of the framing in ? I think I know what you want to do but any chance you could post a few pics ?
Dave,
The shower is in place and the plywood cover is cut that wraps around 3 sides of the toilet but I have not yet cut the access hatches/doors on the 3 sides of the toilet yet, nor do I have any framing for that other than the original glassed tabs under the window for the front lower bunk and the bathroom wall I made for the door frame (has an accordion door). I stopped there until I figured out what to do so I don't end up with a wasted piece of cut wood...so with that said I don't have any pictures to show. Until now the water connections were behind the shower pan in between the outer shell making it almost impossible to reach for servicing or visually checking connections for leaks. I am relocating them to underneath the toilet cover for easy access (except for the last two connections to the hot/cold tap)...

In my mind, the easiest access for both water lines and toilet servicing would be narrow hinged doors that could flip open so the toilet tank could be removed except any framing under the lip of each door could potentially interfere with removing it. The next best thing would be lift out panels with cabinet knobs, but I have the same problem with the supporting frame. So I thought I would study on it some more and see if anyone had any ideas here too. Hope my response was clear enough to understand?
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:26 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Dave,
The shower is in place and the plywood cover is cut that wraps around 3 sides of the toilet but I have not yet cut the access hatches/doors on the 3 sides of the toilet yet, nor do I have any framing for that other than the original glassed tabs under the window for the front lower bunk and the bathroom wall I made for the door frame (has an accordion door). I stopped there until I figured out what to do so I don't end up with a wasted piece of cut wood...so with that said I don't have any pictures to show. Until now the water connections were behind the shower pan in between the outer shell making it almost impossible to reach for servicing or visually checking connections for leaks. I am relocating them to underneath the toilet cover for easy access (except for the last two connections to the hot/cold tap)...

In my mind, the easiest access for both water lines and toilet servicing would be narrow hinged doors that could flip open so the toilet tank could be removed except any framing under the lip of each door could potentially interfere with removing it. The next best thing would be lift out panels with cabinet knobs, but I have the same problem with the supporting frame. So I thought I would study on it some more and see if anyone had any ideas here too. Hope my response was clear enough to understand?
Well John I understand what you're looking to do but just from the drawing I don't know where you are with construction. So I'll make some comments/suggestions for what I think you're trying to do. Laughing at me is fine , I'm better with pics.
You want a box surround that allows the seat of the PP to be above the top of the "deck" along with access to servicing the PP & any water lines. First question, is the PP the standard type that you remove the top off to empty the tank? Second, how often do you see having to have access to the water lines? To me, if it's a standard PP it doesn't have to be "bolted down". Just adding some 3/4" x 3/4" ply strips around the base would keep it from moving around during travels. Sounds like you're saying the curved top that you want to lam finish is in. If it was me, I would make the cutout for the PPies working area, then make a cut about 2" away in a rectangle like you show that could be lifted out to give you the room to remove the PP and access to the water lines. You would have to add some wood under the permanent top for the filler to sit on but the filler piece isn't having to really support any weight. Actually, if the whole top was removable the same thing is done. MMMM, a couple dowel pins along the edge framing would keep it from moving. OK, let the chucking begin .
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:59 AM   #5
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Yes the PP is removable top type and I agree I was planning on putting strips around the base to keep it from moving. I should not need to access the water lines often but when I do relocating them there would simplify that and save my neck and back from trying to twist around to see behind the shower pan . The curved top is cut and I test fit it but it is not secured in place yet. I thought about making the whole top removable like you mentioned and I may end up going that way with it but then I will have to make some minor adjustments so the insulation/headliner layer on the inside shell sits behind it instead of on top of it as I had in mind a tight fit where the two meet. Although your idea of the 2" rectangle was more what I had in mind to lift up and out of the way. Originally I was thinking a rectangle cut piece on each of the 3 sides, but now you gave me an idea, I could cut a 2 to 3 inch wide squared horseshoe shape around it so that the whole horseshoe piece lifts out and the remainder is still secured in place...then that could eliminate any bracing directly up against the potty that might hinder removal, with only a lip around the outer edge of the horseshoe. I think that will work. Thanks Dave, I knew someone here would help spark an idea. I will post some pics when I get it finished...
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:02 AM   #6
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Hey, 1 point for me, glad I could help a bit . I'm sure others will have other ideas for you too. I'll be looking for the finished pics of what you decide to do.
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:17 AM   #7
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One other thing John with the dowels. I was thinking of say 1/4" wood dowels that would only go into the top wood maybe 3/4s of the thickness of it. Your wall covering should be down far enough and the top deck doesn't have to be a "water tight" fit against it. I would think you'll have a shower curtain installed to keep the shower water from spraying on the PP.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:04 AM   #8
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Yes there will be a shower curtain also. The shower curtain rod will be made of small diameter pvc hanging on 2 heavy duty hooks above the bathroom door and 1 hook screwed into a wood tab above the front window so it will be slightly lower than the ceiling (more so on the window side) so some water could potentially splash out, hence the need for the plastic panel/wet bath approach to protect the wood as well as for looks. The plastic paneling is suppose to be very durable so it should be easy to clean and maintain.
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:10 PM   #9
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Okay I think I got it, now just to finish up the trim work, insulation and wall covering...I made the squared off horseshoe that wraps around the toilet and is removable for servicing with plenty of room for removal of the black tank and accessing handles, only I wish I had radius rounded the inner corners but don't have a router yet...other than that I think this works pretty good, plenty of storage area below plus storage on top of the cover around the toilet too, now if only the toilet was white to match...so what do you think?
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