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10-27-2013, 08:17 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Mud dauber screens for our ParkLiner?
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10-27-2013, 08:58 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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The last two items can be bought at the $1 store for a $1 look at the stainless sink strainers, some even come with 2/$1. All you need is a spring to hold it on the furnace. Save yourself some $$.
__________________
Jim
Never in doubt, often wrong
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10-27-2013, 09:47 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Be careful what you put over the furnace openings. The ones at made for the furnace openings are designed to NOT restrict the air flow, that's why they're rounded out from the opening. When using something that's not designed for the purpose the results could be pretty bad.
My furnace manual warns against using something will restrict the air flow. A flat or almost flat screen with reduce the air flow.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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10-27-2013, 10:34 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 312
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Now you tell me!
Jim, Jim!,
I really didn't need to hear that idea of using Dollar store strainers. You just put me off my feed. I spent $18 for a set of those this summer.
Jim
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10-27-2013, 11:12 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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Sorry, they also will fit the side light on U-Haul as a lo-tech grill guard light protector.
__________________
Jim
Never in doubt, often wrong
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10-27-2013, 02:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: 2013 ParkLiner
Upstate New York
Posts: 370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
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I used the JCJ screens for our furnace. On the refrigerator, I had some 1/8" galvanized hardware cloth and made my own using ty-wraps to hold the mesh in place. It won't last as long as stainless but the price was right. Don't forget your water heater. I'm pretty sure I used the Amazon.com: JCJ W-100 Mud Dauber Screen for RV Water Heater: Automotive.
We do have mud daubers that occasionally build nests on the side of the house, but I'm more worried about mice.
It's amazing how small a space a mouse can get into.
__________________
Brian M.
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
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10-27-2013, 03:21 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Thanks Brian, that was what I was looking for. Water heater is already screened, so ordered the stuff for the frig and furnace. That should wrap it up.
Winterized the trailer today, but there is NOT a water tank drain. How would I do that? Drill up from underneath into the tank with like a 1/4" bit, then pull the tank, install the proper size fitting and drain, then drill out the plywood to the right size, re-install with 3M 5200?
Next year I may install a marine RV plug, so there's no opening when I'm hooked up to power.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Frank
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10-27-2013, 04:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY
I used the JCJ screens for our furnace. On the refrigerator, I had some 1/8" galvanized hardware cloth and made my own using ty-wraps to hold the mesh in place. It won't last as long as stainless but the price was right. Don't forget your water heater. I'm pretty sure I used the Amazon.com: JCJ W-100 Mud Dauber Screen for RV Water Heater: Automotive.
We do have mud daubers that occasionally build nests on the side of the house, but I'm more worried about mice.
It's amazing how small a space a mouse can get into.
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The JCJ Mud Dauber Screen is designed to NOT reduce air flow. However putting screens, hardware cloth over the refrigerator vent reduces air flow, at best it will reduce the efficiency of refrigerator, at worst it'll cause the burner to overheat with all sorts of undesired results. I don't know about the hot water heater, but I suspect it is more like the refrigerator than different.
I know many of you don't seem to believe that a screen will restrict air flow, but it does or you don't believe restricting air flow is a bad thing. I hope you don't find out the hard way.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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10-27-2013, 04:45 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: 2013 ParkLiner
Upstate New York
Posts: 370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
Thanks Brian, that was what I was looking for. Water heater is already screened, so ordered the stuff for the frig and furnace. That should wrap it up.
Winterized the trailer today, but there is NOT a water tank drain. How would I do that? Drill up from underneath into the tank with like a 1/4" bit, then pull the tank, install the proper size fitting and drain, then drill out the plywood to the right size, re-install with 3M 5200?
Next year I may install a marine RV plug, so there's no opening when I'm hooked up to power.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Frank
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I believe there is a tee installed between my holding tank and pump with a valve on the side leg. It's kind of hidden under the pump but I'll try to take a picture tomorrow and post it for you. It may require pulling the tank to install the pex but sure beats the idea of drilling into the tank.
__________________
Brian M.
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
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10-27-2013, 05:26 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Ya know Brian, don't kill yourself trying to get a picture if it isn't easy, that's all. I got by today, but it's a pain without a drain. In my old Sunline, the drain was integral to the tank.
Here's what that area looks like in 006:
I could always ask ParkLiner to do the drain when we visit next year too. We're looking at May right now, but I'm not too worried about schedule at this point. I just want to fix this before I winterize it next year!
Also, the clear PEX I had that I joined to the Sharkbite tubing clearly shows the pink antifreeze!
Thanks again for the help,
Frank
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12-01-2013, 12:49 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: Parkliner 2013
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5
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In my PL curbside compartment beneath the pump is a well hidden lever valve for draining the water tanks via a drain line at that rear corner of the trailer. There's PEX running from the curbside fresh water tank to a T with one line going to the pump (inlet) and another going rearward under plywood decking. Hand-following that rearward PEX is the lever valve (it is hard to get to). I have the 2 water tanks, and they're cross-connected, so opening this single valve did drain the tanks.
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12-01-2013, 07:23 PM
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#12
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Member
Name: Aaron
Trailer: Parkliner
North Carolina
Posts: 58
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Frank don't worry about the drain when you Parkliner comes it it will have a drain when it leaves you water pump will be moved to where the batts are and the drain gets installed as the relocation is done
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12-01-2013, 08:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmcGee
Frank don't worry about the drain when you Parkliner comes it it will have a drain when it leaves you water pump will be moved to where the batts are and the drain gets installed as the relocation is done
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Thanks Aaron, sure do appreciate it!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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12-01-2013, 09:08 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 14
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I spoke to a guy at camping world when I was looking for one for the fridge & hot water tank cover- he suggested(said lots do this) buy dog flea collars - can get them fairly cheap- activate them put them inside the cover - the dauber s won't go in
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