My 1991 Scamp renovation - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-28-2012, 03:25 PM   #57
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Name: jim & mary
Trailer: scamp 13 1999
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If you do not mind changing tires.I bought a set of 8" tires and rims to put on my scamp,so can move it in and out of garage.


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Old 03-26-2013, 01:50 PM   #58
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The work continues

I used the camper a LOT last year so I decided to make a few improvements over the winter. First my cabinet doors were a little heavy and one broke a hinge while driving. Second, the fiberglass of the kitchen was a pain in the ass to clean, so instead of fixing all the holes the previous owner drilled in it to replace things like hinges on the cabinet doors, I decided to cover it up with wood and formica. Nothing says home like faux granite tops! More of a pain in the ass then I thought it would be because the sink had a raised area in the fiberglass which I had to grind out to make the surface flat for the formica. I found that holding the vacuum cleaner with one hand and the grinder with the other worked pretty well to keep the dust down. I still managed to coat the inside of the camper with a thin layer of toxic gel coat and fiberglass dust. That took a while to clean up.

I also fixed the cutlery drawer from bouncing around by screwing a piece of wood underneath it and replacing the piece of plywood that Scamp uses as sliders. While the stove was out I also spray painted the metal box around the stove black so it would not rust (not that anybody besides me will ever see it). In stead of cabinet doors I put a locking mechanism to keep the cooler in place while driving and put a stop at the front of the other shelf to prevent things from falling out. Cabinet doors are a nice idea, but in such a small space, I would much prefer to just be able to see things and pick them up rather then having to maneuver myself around each door as I open it up to find the thing I lost.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:52 PM   #59
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I used the camper a LOT last year so I decided to make a few improvements over the winter. First my cabinet doors were a little heavy and one broke a hinge while driving.
Instead of hinges, why not bolt the door to the front of the icebox and put the handle on that...
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:18 PM   #60
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I am going to.... someday. I have a piece of thin plywood that matches the cabinet facing that I will glue and screw onto the front of the icebox.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:20 PM   #61
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Or triangulate the door support with both hinges on one side and a blind catch on the other for support. works well for mine and instead of a wood panel in the center, I have a light mesh screen that you can see through. Works even better when back lit with LED.
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:09 PM   #62
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Don't have a link for them but they sell small adjustable expansion rods for use inside refrigerators that can make nice hold back rods for shelves.

Some really nice work there. I really like how you did your front dinette, and the shelves in the closet. By like mean I may borrow much from those two.

What did you use to attach your rails to support the shelves in the closet? I had been thinking of using epoxy on the inside and rivets into the wood from the outside to hold them while the epoxy set up.
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:27 PM   #63
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Don't have a link for them but they sell small adjustable expansion rods for use inside refrigerators that can make nice hold back rods for shelves.

Some really nice work there. I really like how you did your front dinette, and the shelves in the closet. By like mean I may borrow much from those two.

What did you use to attach your rails to support the shelves in the closet? I had been thinking of using epoxy on the inside and rivets into the wood from the outside to hold them while the epoxy set up.

If you want to borrow the front dinette see what I said about tabing in supports rather than trying to use the existing supports for the existing bench which were really low. This would have saved me a lot of head aches.

I don't rivet and have nearly eliminated every single rivet from my camper. I dress up the bolts with finishing washers. I think they actually look really sharp. I used stainless steel bolts to attach pieces of wood on the inside of closet on each side. The shelves are just placed onto the supports. Technically there is nothing actually holding them down besides piles of food and crappolla. I suppose I could screw them down to the supports.
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:52 PM   #64
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If you want to borrow the front dinette see what I said about tabing in supports rather than trying to use the existing supports for the existing bench which were really low. This would have saved me a lot of head aches.

I don't rivet and have nearly eliminated every single rivet from my camper. I dress up the bolts with finishing washers. I think they actually look really sharp. I used stainless steel bolts to attach pieces of wood on the inside of closet on each side. The shelves are just placed onto the supports. Technically there is nothing actually holding them down besides piles of food and crappolla. I suppose I could screw them down to the supports.
I noticed that about the original supports and tabbing in some where really needed.

I think SS bolts can look really nice but am 100% rivets right now so for consistency... but sounds like your saying the bolts alone handle the weight so I could skip the epoxy which is attractive in it's own right.

Why screw the shelves down? If it ain't broke then there's not much point in fixing it. Always enough stuff that needs to be done without looking for problems.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:13 PM   #65
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Rattling glass jars.

Try putting a few wide-ish rubber bands around each bottle: one near the top and bottom and one near the middle. Not only will it buffer the sound it'll also improve your grip when trying to open the bottles. And of course its readily available and relatively inexpensive. :-)
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