My ambitious Boler restoration - '79 Model - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-09-2013, 09:23 PM   #43
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Fiberglass, Here we go!

Disclaimer: I have never ever worked fiberglass except for some minor jobs when involved with R/C planes back in the 80's,...
But as I said before, I have been called an ambitious man by some.

Hence, I went to the depot and bought myself a starter kid:

Some resin and accelerator and FG cloth,
gloves and respirator,
grinder and #50 grit sand paper,
small brushes, etc.

I also removed the PO screws and bolts and bought SS replacements.

Tomorrow will be FG virgin day, wish me luck! (Better still, send me advise...)
I plan to close down all holes in the floor prior to cutting out a 1/2" plywood floor sheet.

Cheers,
L
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis View Post
Disclaimer: I have never ever worked fiberglass except for some minor jobs when involved with R/C planes back in the 80's,...
But as I said before, I have been called an ambitious man by some.

Hence, I went to the depot and bought myself a starter kid:

Some resin and accelerator and FG cloth,
gloves and respirator,
grinder and #50 grit sand paper,
small brushes, etc.

I also removed the PO screws and bolts and bought SS replacements.

Tomorrow will be FG virgin day, wish me luck! (Better still, send me advise...)
I plan to close down all holes in the floor prior to cutting out a 1/2" plywood floor sheet.

Cheers,
L
Hi Luis,
You got a good collection of stuff here. I highly recommend goggles because that FG gets everywhere when you're sanding/grinding and it will irritate your eyes for a while. Also have saline solution for your eyes if you do get some FG in them. Another thing that is amazing is a Tyvek disposable body suit with a hood (they're about $15). You can use it a bunch of times and don't have to worry about FG getting in to itch you and your clothes getting ruined.

I'm using Nitrile gloves and use two sets. I tape the first set with painter's tape to the Tyvek suit so nothing gets up the sleeves. Then the 2nd set over those is the working set that can be disposed of when torn or sticky.

By the way, make sure you are using FG mat, not cloth. The mat is thicker and strong, full of FG fibers, while the cloth is weak and thin.

Slav
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:45 PM   #45
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FG repairs

Thanks Slav. FG is itchy indeed....

I tried a few spots to calibrate the grinder/sander operation, and boy! do I need to buy that hooded vest you mentioned.

Thanks again.
L
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:01 PM   #46
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Change of plans- layout

I have been looking at Eriba Puck and Eriba Faum traditional layouts and have decided to make a change in my plans.

Originally, my bathroom was located at the entrance of the Boler, and the original closet was extended to be wider (2 ft.) so that a slider door could make up a enclosed bath.

Now, I have decided not to install the closet in the original position, but rather in the front left (street side) corner of the trailer. This way I can extend the bunks forward and when set up as bed, actually gain a respectable bed size, almost a King size (72" x 65"). The Galley counter is will be 16" shorter, but still at 5' more comfortable that most.

I will make a layout plan with my original idea and my revised one for you to comment. I think I'll gain a cleaner sleeping area, a more comfortable dinning and dinette tables, and a convertible closed bathroom might allow me to shower inside, we'll see.

Today I managed to finish the 1/2" plywood flooring sheets from foam templates I had made before. BTW Why not leaving the 1/2' insulation in place below the plywood? Any concerns anyone!!!

Well enough, thanks
L
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:20 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Luis View Post
Thanks Slav. FG is itchy indeed....

I tried a few spots to calibrate the grinder/sander operation, and boy! do I need to buy that hooded vest you mentioned.

Thanks again.
L
Not sure you got acetone, but you'll want to wipe it all down with acetone before glassing or applying Bondo. There are also thicker rubber gloves you should get that can resist acetone (and wear Nitrile ones underneath).

There is a pretty good thread from the past on You Can Repair Fiberglass that is worth a look.

By the way, cool idea to use Styrofoam to make templates...I was wondering how to best deal with getting the corners right. Thanks for the tip!

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:43 PM   #48
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New layout mocked in

Hello all, Please take a look at my pictures of the new set up:

I am using "Styrofoam" as a mean to cut templates for the plywood curves.

It works pretty well with an Exacto saw, and its reasonable cheap for this purpose.(about $7 for each 8' x 2' sheet@ Home Depot).

Closet is now in the front left corner, 5' counter/galley, two longer benches and a 1/3-2/3 length table set up.

Cheers,
L
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:22 PM   #49
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Floor underlay done, work moves along fine

Hi,

I managed to complete the 1/2 " plywood flooring cuts today, working with the foam help this task considerably.

I am done mocking in the closet, the left bench (same cutoffs for right side), and the forward galley,

here some pics of today's progress for my journal and for you if you wish to comment,

Good night all,
L
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:26 AM   #50
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Got some good ideas from you- thanks. (like the sytrofoam idea better than my cardboard) I have been kicking around to "oven or not oven" for awhile now. I see some nice layouts with ovens. On my layout I was going to make space for a larger convection oven or maybe a microwave/convection combo. Not sure yet. I am just concerned whether or not I would use an oven inside a egg that much. Of course that is a personal preference for most people and how they cook. At home here I use one of the TV NuWave devices. Being single now I tend to throw stuff in,heat it and eat it and be done with it. I really would like to have a Tee off of my propane and cook outside when its nice under a screened in Awning. Good luck on your restoration. You are much ahead of me.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:47 AM   #51
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Hi Luis

It is taking shape

I would suggest that you check your door fit at this time. I guarantee that with all the internal structure removed, especially beside the door, that the walls have sagged and bowed out. At this time if you check the door fit you will find a HUGE gap at the bottom. Carefully lift on the roof the walls will straighten and if done correctly you will have perfect door fit. Once "jacked up" you will need to hold the walls at that state by either using cabinetry connected to the walls or you could use what I did and build curved support members and epoxy them to the walls.

Here is what I did
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:34 AM   #52
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I like the curved support. I was trying to avoid putting my cabinets back up on that side like yours but know that I need arch support on the roof and door area. This might be the answer. It now gives me another option to work with.
Thanks
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:24 PM   #53
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Roof suppourt

Hey Ian, Mike, thanks for pitching in.

I have been thinking about roof sagging/ door fitting issues and I believe its not a function of the FG sagging, but rather crumpling/bending chassises (Chassis Plural!) and how that deformation impact the door fit.

My model is a 79', the bottom half includes an integral floor and its all supported by the exterior frame. Since my frame is mint, I think the bottom half holds well and that the top half is well supported.

I do not think the roof sags! the egg shape is very efficient transferring loads that is.

Regardless I tink your advice (Ian) is worth a try. I will install the door and check, make some measurements and be proactive instead of being surprised later.

Cheers,
Luis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
Hi Luis

It is taking shape

I would suggest that you check your door fit at this time. I guarantee that with all the internal structure removed, especially beside the door, that the walls have sagged and bowed out. At this time if you check the door fit you will find a HUGE gap at the bottom. Carefully lift on the roof the walls will straighten and if done correctly you will have perfect door fit. Once "jacked up" you will need to hold the walls at that state by either using cabinetry connected to the walls or you could use what I did and build curved support members and epoxy them to the walls.

Here is what I did
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:32 PM   #54
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Your right the egg shape is very efficient, trouble is our eggs are cracked at the door. Simple test is to simply push up on the roof with your hand at the roof profile where it bumps up. As you push up watch at the doorway opening and see how the curvature changes, the walls will straighten some. This change in curvature is the sag that will impact door alignment.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:19 PM   #55
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Wow Luis, you're just jamming on this thing!

Question for you. When you built up the corners of the windows with fiberglass, are you building from both inside and outside, or do you mask off one side and only build from one side? I would think that one would need to do it from both sides to attain the most strength, but not sure if it is necessary. Thanks.

Slav
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #56
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Good question Slav, I have been watching a ton of YT videos on FG repairs -lots of stuff I am learning on there for sure. I am hoping to just be able to patch from the inside but I just saw one where he did if from the outside since he couldnt get inside that area and it looked great. He must have had about 5 or 6 layers of FG over his epoxy and then did Bondo over that in several layers to achieve a smooth surface.
[FG disclaimer to the experts -I only relate to what I see on YT, I dont know if those guys are doing it correctly or not]
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