My ambitious Boler restoration - '79 Model - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-27-2013, 07:50 AM   #71
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Dave, Just one more stupid question to make sure I am on the same page with you. I will patch the two or more big vent areas with salvaged FG from my old galley. BUT for the outside restoration. How much of a gap would you leave around the perimeters? Do you then take some 220 or smaller grit and rough up that area without breaking the Gelcoat and then fill the ditch in with Bondo and then finish it out? The inside repair I can visualize but I want to do the outside correctly. It will be painted after all my FGing is done.
Hope that made sense
Mike
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:17 AM   #72
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Dave, Just one more stupid question to make sure I am on the same page with you. I will patch the two or more big vent areas with salvaged FG from my old galley. BUT for the outside restoration. How much of a gap would you leave around the perimeters? Do you then take some 220 or smaller grit and rough up that area without breaking the Gelcoat and then fill the ditch in with Bondo and then finish it out? The inside repair I can visualize but I want to do the outside correctly. It will be painted after all my FGing is done.
Hope that made sense
Mike
No stupid questions.....you need to use a grinder or at least 80 grit to make a ditch around to patch from both sides when you can and never use bondo over seams...only use resin and mat, then grind or heavy sand, then bondo....never put anything over anything unsanded is the rule here. Don't try to save your gelcoat or anything else, as you will need to feather the patch beyond the small ditch anyway...So to recap, ditch both sides, (1 at a time of course) and resin and mat both sides, then heavy sand the areas for the filler. Done this way, your patch will be as strong or stronger than the original glass....oh, and don't forget the safety gear...Dave
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:52 PM   #73
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But if I were to patch with resin and mat and then grind and feather it out smoothly would I even need Bondo? To me it would be ready to prime and paint. I've seen several threads about using Bondo but I think if I were to smooth out my resin correctly then putting Bondo over it would be superfluous. Also I have seen/read comments about some resins not curing until they are actually totally covered with wax or some other agent otherwise it stays in a tacky mode. You mention using a polyester resin and nothing else. Will that cure w/o being covered? Not sure I understand all of that yet and w/o wasting your time maybe there are some reference books I can bone up on. I am 99% there and aligned with you now after re-reading your original thread over and over.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:28 PM   #74
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But if I were to patch with resin and mat and then grind and feather it out smoothly would I even need Bondo? To me it would be ready to prime and paint. I've seen several threads about using Bondo but I think if I were to smooth out my resin correctly then putting Bondo over it would be superfluous. Also I have seen/read comments about some resins not curing until they are actually totally covered with wax or some other agent otherwise it stays in a tacky mode. You mention using a polyester resin and nothing else. Will that cure w/o being covered? Not sure I understand all of that yet and w/o wasting your time maybe there are some reference books I can bone up on. I am 99% there and aligned with you now after re-reading your original thread over and over.

I know this procedure sounds intimidating and you want to learn everything possible so you don't screw up your project. Everyone feels the same way...Just try it, the worst thing that can happen is that you grind out the repair and do it over...but if you do it right, your repair the first time will be as strong and long lasting as mine would be after 35 years of doing it...so here's some rules to live by designed for the first time user to do cheaply with pro results....
1. never apply anything over unsanded surface
2. Wear safety gear
3. Mix according to can instructions and work in well ventilated area
4. Never use cloth, use weave (strands hooked together randomly)
5. Bondo (filler) is necessary to fill imperfections from grinding and sanding
6. High build primer (polyester) is necessary to fill sand scratches from sanding bondo and to feather repair to adjoining areas.

Try the repair following these instructions while following the instructions on the can and you will be amazed...YOU CAN DO IT....as you do some of this, you can use some other procedures to refine the process, but start simply and gain experience...It's fun, rewarding to do yourself, and easy.
Trailer Dave
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:09 PM   #75
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FG repairs started

Mike, Dave, others....
Well, weather permiting and available time, finally.
Got started with FG sanding and am planning preping all the shell for paint job in short order.

Thanks all for tips on FG repair will post pictures of advance as I progress trough.

Cheers,
L
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:24 PM   #76
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Frame and Shell parted

Some pics of the shell on sleeper (!!) and the frame taken apart.

The frame is really clean, some design flaws i will try to fix before re installing, and am also planning to install the spare tier assembly where the water tank originally was, under the dinnete, outside the cabin.

Also I need to re install the axle under the springs and add a damper/shock absorber . No rust, paint is good.

As for the cabin underside, lots of scratches and dents from flying pebbles/ rocks. Think i Will make sure there are no leaks by clothing/matting affected areas and then apply a rubber (rhino lining) or similar to help protect the FG and bondo surfaces....

Cheers all,
L
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:28 PM   #77
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underside FG

Some pics of the FG in the leading edge and underside of cabin showing dents and damage (minor.)

Comparing to plywood floor models, this '79 Boler, with the fllor all in FG is a great deal...
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:49 PM   #78
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Nice Pixs. I am 99.99% done with my fiberglassing now and I feel confident enough that I am going to get a bit creative but wont share what I am going to do yet. It will be unique to say the least thanks to Dave's support (may start a new trend).
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:25 PM   #79
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Luis, good to see you continuing the project. You won't regret coating the underside...these things are old and it is worth going the extra mile to get them looking better than when new!

I just started working on ours again after a few-week break...

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:15 PM   #80
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first FG repair

Well, I also managed to take time to work on the Boler, finally.

Patched a large hole in the side (former Dometic fridge exhaust) with a flat sheet of FG, and applied two layers of fiber mat on the inside.

The finishing on the outside is still pending.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:30 PM   #81
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Well, I also managed to take time to work on the Boler, finally.

Patched a large hole in the side (former Dometic fridge exhaust) with a flat sheet of FG, and applied two layers of fiber mat on the inside.

The finishing on the outside is still pending.

Well Done.........Trailer Dave
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:06 PM   #82
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Looks good. How are you going to take care of the external groove? Will you only Bondo, or grind a groove and lay down glass, then Bondo?
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:58 PM   #83
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Looks good. How are you going to take care of the external groove? Will you only Bondo, or grind a groove and lay down glass, then Bondo?

Resin and glass MUST be applied to the outside also....trailer Dave
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:05 PM   #84
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Resin and glass MUST be applied to the outside also....trailer Dave
Dave, so what's the best procedure to get the outside looking perfect when you're faced with patching-in sections like Luis has here? Thanks.
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