My ambitious Boler restoration - '79 Model - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-21-2013, 05:57 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
Dave, so what's the best procedure to get the outside looking perfect when you're faced with patching-in sections like Luis has here? Thanks.
From the picture the patch surface looks lower than the original surface, which is perfect, so, I would grind a 2 inch tapered area around the patch in the gel coat, also grinding the patch so nothing is put over an unground surface and put some resin fiberglass slightly bigger than the patched area, and then put another piece bigger than that, kind of bringing the surface even or slightly above. Sand to level with original surface or below, and apply filler (bondo) to feather into the surrounding surface...then polyester primer to finish blending the patch into the surrounding area............I feel the biggest mistake beginners make is the "I want to keep the repair as small as possible idea" as if a smaller repair shows less....it doesn't...make the repair as large as needed to blend into the surrounding area, and it won't show....try to keep it smaller than is needed, and it will show.........Trailer Dave
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:30 PM   #86
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From the picture the patch surface looks lower than the original surface, which is perfect, so, I would grind a 2 inch tapered area around the patch in the gel coat, also grinding the patch so nothing is put over an unground surface and put some resin fiberglass slightly bigger than the patched area, and then put another piece bigger than that, kind of bringing the surface even or slightly above. Sand to level with original surface or below, and apply filler (bondo) to feather into the surrounding surface...then polyester primer to finish blending the patch into the surrounding area............I feel the biggest mistake beginners make is the "I want to keep the repair as small as possible idea" as if a smaller repair shows less....it doesn't...make the repair as large as needed to blend into the surrounding area, and it won't show....try to keep it smaller than is needed, and it will show.........Trailer Dave
Thanks Dave! These are good tips and I'll plan to put them to good use.
Slav
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:02 PM   #87
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Glad I read this Dave as I was going to Bondo in the areas around my "patches" which contradicts what you said. But you do use Bondo it appears just in the thinnest of amounts to bring everything together. I am used to the old car body man who looks inside a fender well and there is a Bondo patch the size of a basketball holding things together. I really only have the two patches from the fridge vents that I did. So I will duplicate what you told Slave above. I thought I was through with FGing now and onto Bondo but seems I have a bit more external work to do.
Thanks
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:44 PM   #88
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I did two layers on the outside, but may have missed the boat on grinding enough on the outer gel coat.

THe FG mat adhered well to the patch (Sanded) but left some areas of the "gap" unfilled.

I am concerned with leaks, and stress points, so will grind away again and apply more mat and resin...

Regards,
L
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:52 PM   #89
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I did two layers on the outside, but may have missed the boat on grinding enough on the outer gel coat.

THe FG mat adhered well to the patch (Sanded) but left some areas of the "gap" unfilled.

I am concerned with leaks, and stress points, so will grind away again and apply more mat and resin...

Regards,
L
Good plan, best now than after you paint and get a leak!
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #90
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Hey Luis, how is the project coming along?

I got a sub-floor question for you. Considering our floors are completely fiberglass with no wood planks imbedded, what are your plans for attaching your plywood? I have 6 locations where the body will be bolted to the frame, but I think this probably won't be enough for the rest of the floor...but then again, maybe that would be sufficient?

I would imagine putting in extra bolts in a few places to get the floor boards nice and tight and prevent any bounce during driving or buckling (?). What do you think?

Slav
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:34 PM   #91
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Plywood floor anchors

Slav, great FG on those wheel wells BTW!!!

Re. floor anchoring I am thinking about this issue as well. I am concerned with the whole cabin attachements to the frame too. four litte 1/4" screws its all I have now. Also the plates are welded to the frame very poorly (not poor welding but poor design - flat plate welded to frame tube.)

I think a solution for both the cabin to frame anchoring, and also the floor to cabin requirement is to run an U bolt under the frame tube and through FG bottom and Plywood under lay flooring.

(U bolts I mean like tha ones that hold the axle to the springs, but square not round... sorry most terminology gets lost in translation for me)

I am also installing hard foam insulation under the plywood and above the FG.

Does it make sense?
Cheers,
L
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:33 AM   #92
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My Casita only has standard 3 inch screws spaced about 20 inches apart and going across each of the support beams. The most I can see is about 25 or so holding down the OSB to the channels below. All mine are rusted out and I am going to remove them and replace but I will have a flat washer on top where as Casita was just the screw head. I thought I read that these screws were the only thing holding my body on as I dont see bolts anywhere. There is another thread with some good pictures. You might want to consider that. I was trying to find the link but cant. IF you do the internal Google search on "floor Screws" there are a ton of suggestions on the Boler.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:29 AM   #93
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Slav, great FG on those wheel wells BTW!!!

Re. floor anchoring I am thinking about this issue as well. I am concerned with the whole cabin attachements to the frame too. four litte 1/4" screws its all I have now. Also the plates are welded to the frame very poorly (not poor welding but poor design - flat plate welded to frame tube.)

I think a solution for both the cabin to frame anchoring, and also the floor to cabin requirement is to run an U bolt under the frame tube and through FG bottom and Plywood under lay flooring.

(U bolts I mean like tha ones that hold the axle to the springs, but square not round... sorry most terminology gets lost in translation for me)

I am also installing hard foam insulation under the plywood and above the FG.

Does it make sense?
Cheers,
L
Hi Luis,

I agree with you about the original body anchor tabs being weak. We had the same kind but when we had the new frame fabricated, we decided to stick with the tabs but make them super awesome! They are about 3/8" thick, super welded on and have side tabs welded on...they are not going anywhere. We have 4 of these (2 at each end) and then we had two put in the middle. The 4 main ones are getting 1/2" bolts. The others will get 3/8" bolts. This should take care of the body attachment. I'll just need to figure out attaching the plywood with additional screws thru the floor.

The U bolts sound like a good option for you, unless you can get new tabs welded on or reinforced.

***
Mike,

Wow, you're going to have some work removing and replacing all those screws. I had about 14 such ones and it wasn't fun. Get a good electric bolt cutter.

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:29 PM   #94
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hiatus its over

back to Boler reno after a few months off line...

Update:

-Most fiberglass work is complete on bottom half, specially under the shell and all perforations closed off.

-Top half is waiting for new HERH windows for final cut offs and FG work.

-New vents and services access opened on the front side. THESE will be the only two perforations to the FG other that Windows, door and Fan.

-Furnace will vent to the front. Water fill (gravity) and city water and electricity to be accessed on the front right side. Vents for cooler/freezer on the front left side.

-Storage for hoses, and electric city connection wire to be accessed from the outside on the same front right side opening

-....
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:18 PM   #95
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And I thought my pool table was going overboard..
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:44 PM   #96
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Luis, good to see you back! Keep the project coming and let's see more pics!
Slav
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:33 AM   #97
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Winter update

Disclaimer:
I have no heat nor insulation in my garage! So work progresses on chinook schedule.
Chinooks winds bring warm drier air down from the Rockies on their leeward side, and into Calgary. Sometimes we have Warm week of over 30 degrees Celsius difference in the midst of winter.

This year weather has been CRAZY, most of the east and Midwest is buried in this article vortex system, south alberta have been enjoying spring weather....

Sorry I digress...

Work continues, slow progress great expectations!
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:37 AM   #98
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More pics

Trying my new iPad to upload pics, learning again.
Can't get to upload more than one pic pert post...
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