My Boomerang 1971 Compact Jr. - Fiberglass RV
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View Poll Results: What color should I paint my Compact Jr.?
Brilliant White 1 2.44%
Navajo White 10 24.39%
Silver Gray 2 4.88%
True Black 1 2.44%
Firetruck Red 1 2.44%
Pepto-Bismol Pink 1 2.44%
Safety Orange 2 4.88%
Lemon Yellow 3 7.32%
Forrest Green 1 2.44%
Cyan 3 7.32%
Dodger Blue 2 4.88%
Lavender 1 2.44%
Majenta 1 2.44%
2 Tone with White on top (explain which combo in a post) 4 9.76%
Partridge Family Bus 3 7.32%
Something I didn't think of (explain in a post) 5 12.20%
Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-01-2011, 10:37 PM   #1
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My Boomerang 1971 Compact Jr.

I sold this in 2005 after I bought my Fiber Stream. In the interim, I told the guys that if they ever wanted to sell I would buy it back.
It's Ba-a-a-ack.

I bought it the 1st time in 2000 (before FiberglassRV existed). It was nothing more than an empty shell with a rotten floor. I removed the 1/2 inch plywood floor that only ran down the center between the wheel wells and replaced it with 3/4 inch plywood extending out to the side walls. I laid sheet vinyl flooring. I "flipped" the axle to raise the body 4". I had a bumper installed with integral screw jacks that I designed. I bought a prefab bathroom base cabinet and countertop and prefinished closet shelving all made out of particle board to build the interior. Bought foam and covered it with denim for the cushions. I used it on 2 cross-country trips.

Now it is a little damaged, and I am going to do it over. All of the particle board interior will be removed, though I may save the countertop. The floor is in good shape and I want to keep it. I am thinking of also cutting off the heavy bumper and fashioning something lighter. I'll need to rebuild the door as the upper glass was broken and replaced (poorly) with thin Plexiglas. Yep, the canvass needs to be replaced too... All of the windows and the door will be pulled and resealed with butyl tape. THIS TIME it will also get repainted.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:41 AM   #2
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As we said we are glad it's back with you. I will always remember that trailer as my first "Oh another fiberglass trailer owner that needs to know about fiberglassrv.com" moment!

Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:34 AM   #3
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. I "flipped" the axle to raise the body 4".

What do you mean by "flipped"? I would like some ground clearance,but had thought that I would have to use a straight axle to get it.
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don'n'Deb View Post
What do you mean by "flipped"? I would like some ground clearance,but had thought that I would have to use a straight axle to get it.
Leaf spring suspensions are factory installed "Spring Under" meaning the axle is clamped on top of the leaves so it passes through the space between the frame and the leaves of the springs. Flipping (or inverting) the U-Bolts allows the axle to be mounted "Spring Over" putting the springs between the axle and the frame. I started with 7" of clearance between the road surface and the frame and now have 11". I also have a drop axle, and the axle clearance stayed the same; only the frame and body of the trailer is higher.
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:26 PM   #5
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Cool Step 1 = YES, you can get a new Title

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
I wasn't aware before yesterday that the price had been reduced.

*note on edit: This is only available as an option if the trailer already has a title. Once the trailer has been enrolled into the PTI program without exercising this option a title is no longer available for it. That's because PTI trailers are not registered, they have identification.

When I sold my Compact Junior it was in the PTI program, but I still had a title for it. My buyer and I conducted the transaction at the AAA office. The AAA clerk offered my buyer the option because the Compact Junior had an existing title, and warned him of that once the title was declined, it could not be reinstated. He declined anyway...
I re-registered the Compact Jr. (at the AAA office) in my name today. It did not have a title. I used This online California DMV form, paid all of the fees, and my PTI registration is in hand, and the new title will be mailed to me from Sacramento.

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Old 12-31-2011, 07:36 PM   #6
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Red face Trailer Weight Loss Clinic

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
I bought it the 1st time in 2000 (before FiberglassRV existed). It was nothing more than an empty shell with a rotten floor.
Once again the Compact Jr. is an empty shell; and it had leaked enough over 6 years to rot out a patch of the floor in the back street-side corner under the "kitchen" cabinet.

Starting total weight = 1420 pounds

I don't have pictures of today's work, but right now the Compact Jr. consists of the undercarriage (frame/axle/wheels), Fiberglass shell (including Pop-top roof), 3 windows, 1 door, and an extended 3/4" plywood floor. The fabric has been removed from the Pop-top to be a pattern for its replacement. The next thing I did was to weigh the trailer!

Axle weight = 800 pounds
Tongue weight = 60 pounds
Total gutted weight = 860 pounds

I removed 560 pounds so far, most of it particle board. That includes the reflectix insulation and vinyl wall covering which weighed only 15 pounds. I think I can justify replacing it for that small amount of weight; instead if just painting the inside of the fiberglass. Since about 3 sq. ft. of the 3/4" plywood floor has to be replaced, would it be justified to pull out the whole extended floor and go back to 1/2" plywood only down the middle between the wheel wells to remove more weight?
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:47 PM   #7
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Weight loss

I guess if it were me doing it, I'd go back to the 3/4 inch ply for a good solid feel under foot and I'd then put some really good rot-proofing on the underside of the ply, and a good paint on the top. Or add yet another couple of pounds back in and 'glass over the top of the ply.

Weight loss is not a bad goal, but strength and utility would be my prime focus. I'd rather wind up 50# heavier but sturdy than be lighter & potentially flimsy underfoot.

Then whatever floor finish you want, before putting any cabinets etc into it.

That said, it is NOT my trailer, so.......
<_<
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Old 01-01-2012, 01:18 PM   #8
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Ahhh, the mythical 900lb trailer is just a shell on wheels!

On the floor I guess it depends on what your goal is and how much work you want to do. Does the rest of the floor look ok? How much work would each choice be? How would either choice work with the proposed floor plan and intended use of the trailer? I personally don't like a springy floor underfoot.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:24 PM   #9
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Would it be feasible to use pressure treated plywood for the floor? Seems like it would be a good idea since houses are built using it for basement walls.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:39 PM   #10
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizbeth View Post
Ahhh, the mythical 900lb trailer is just a shell on wheels!

On the floor I guess it depends on what your goal is and how much work you want to do.
My original goal was to try to build the Mythical 950 LB trailer. To that end I would have to take out the full (6' wide) 3/4" floor (almost 2 sheets, but significant waste) and replace it with the original size 1/2" partial floor down the center between the wheel wells (4' wide, only 1 sheet plus a small scrap), and depend on the fiberglass body in the corners. I would also have to cut off the rear bumper that I had welded on for the last rebuild.

Alas, I have a major case of the lazies. I only need to cut out a 1' x 3' piece of the floor at the back left corner and patch it, the rest is in good shape. Since the Compact Jr. is similar in floor-plan to the Little Joe, I'm going to see if I can buy the molded fiberglass bench pieces from them.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:42 PM   #11
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Lightbulb

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Would it be feasible to use pressure treated plywood for the floor?
I was kicking around the idea of using Trex for the 1' patch across the back.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:30 AM   #12
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Cool I added a poll to this topic

Please help me choose a paint color. I will reserve the right to follow or ignore your advise. Please have fun with this!
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:34 AM   #13
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDave View Post
I guess if it were me doing it, I'd go back to the 3/4 inch ply for a good solid feel under foot and I'd then put some really good rot-proofing on the underside of the ply...
I coated the bottom of this trailer with a spray-on Rhino-Liner type product when I first rebuilt it. It still rotted out in the corner, making me think the source comes from above; not below.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:45 AM   #14
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I'm first!!

Wow, I'm first to vote! I feel so special!

I think since the world is going to end this year on 21 Dec 2012, you should paint it camouflage color to make it easier to hide. This seems to be my favorite color but I already seen a post where people were picking that apart. My one trailer is camouflage and someday I will repaint it.

On a serious note, I would paint it white with some nice graphics like blue.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:54 PM   #15
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I voted lucky number 7. I'm with Steve. Navajo White, but visable frame parts, wheels and decals whatever color of the towing tug.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:48 PM   #16
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I voted for brilliant white. I would also do some stripes of color or some graphics to match the tow or the inside decor of the trailer.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:09 PM   #17
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i opt for firetruck red. why?? well, there are sooooo many white and off-white trailers. and this one has HEART. yours. if it didn't, would you have wanted it back????
therefore, i HEARTILY suggest red. the colour of love. the colour of passion. and not only that, but i saw a red T@B and it was truly beautiful.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:55 PM   #18
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I've always liked the idea of painting the trailer to match the color and design of the tow vehicle.
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:54 AM   #19
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White over red, to coordinate with your Fibrestream. I have always liked this combo since seeing "The Big Bobber" at the OG.

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Old 01-03-2012, 06:25 PM   #20
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Pictures of an empty shell

Ah, memories. This is about what the Compact Jr. looked like inside when I 1st saw it 10 years ago. Right now the street side window has leaked badly, and I need to track down the source of the leak that damaged the corner of the floor next to the entry door.
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