My Broken Back 16ft. Casita - Page 12 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-03-2020, 09:30 AM   #221
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 338
Another project was to fix the door. The wood that was glassed into interior of the door panel had rotted out causing the door to lose its curve and the carpet on the door was stained and mildewed beyond cleaning. After reading over Eric's struggles with his door repair, I decided to try a different approach which is the simplest that I could come up with. I simply added a 1X 6 wooden rib on either side of the door that had the correct curve cut on one edge. Each piece of wood is attached by one #10 stainless through bolt. cross pieces were added just below the window and at the bottom of the frame. 1/2 inch rigid insulation was added to that and enclosed by a 1/8" door skin panel which itself was covered by a piece of vinyl sheet left over from another project that will be shown next.

Pics







The plastic insert that houses my locking mechanism is a cut down plastic tray whose original purpose is long forgotten. I chose it because it happened to be close the right depth and dimension for this purpose



The fiberglass door surface not covered by my new door frame was simply cleaned and painted white along with the rest of the door frame. I chose to do this for simplicity. I see this as a boondocking trailer not a show piece.



This trim piece was cut from a piece of 1/4 inch lexan painted white to match. It trims in the cut out needed to make clearance for the door lock assembly which extends through the frame.
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Old 05-03-2020, 09:52 AM   #222
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 338
The last project that I will show today is the mod that I did to my side dinette area. Originally this was the galley side. It was reversed during the rebuild of the Broke Back Casita two years ago. The original carpet was extremely funky from cooking grease and age stains. I cut out all of the carpet in this area and attempted to piece in carpet that I had left over from the new galley rebuild on the opposite side. I wasn't happy with the results.



If you go back to my galley build, you will notice the white vinyl surface that I applied to horizontal 1X2 furring strips that were attached between the two galley side bulkheads made of 3/4 inch plywood. I did the new dinette in much the same way.







I think there is much improvement in the new dinette. I think I will extend this vinyl treatment all of the way down. But that is a project for later. I have other project in mind to complete before then.
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Old 05-03-2020, 10:02 AM   #223
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Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,174
Registry
Great work!
Your whole build is inspiring.
I really like that size of trailer and
what you have done with it.
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I'd rather do it myself, done right or not. Isn't that what a hobby is all about?
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ler-55601.html
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Old 05-03-2020, 11:59 AM   #224
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 338
Thank You Fred!
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Old 01-17-2022, 08:39 AM   #225
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Name: Frank
Trailer: Currently Shopping
Missouri
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I just found this old thread. I'm interested how you attached the plywood to the wall? Did you glue furring strips to the fiberglass then glue and screw the plywood to the furring strips?
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:05 PM   #226
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 338
Quote:
Originally Posted by frthompson View Post
I just found this old thread. I'm interested how you attached the plywood to the wall? Did you glue furring strips to the fiberglass then glue and screw the plywood to the furring strips?
Hello Frank,
This was an old gutted trailer that allowed me a blank slate in which to build from. It was swayback when I got it due to it sat for many years without any cabinets installed. To bring the body back into shape I built four 3/4 plywood bulkheads that support the ceiling and force the bulging walls back into shape.

Basically in the photo you refereed to, the panel framing attaches to the bulkhead you see on the left side and the bathroom partition wall on the right. There also are screws through the exterior of the aluminum window frames into a plywood window frame that encircles the window and holds it tight around the window. There also is a small 3/16" stainless carriage bolt going through the ceiling and through frame to support the upper edge and prevent sagging. This bolt is hidden by an LED light fixture over the dining table. The carriage bolt is sealed from the weather by a small amount of high grade caulking. I debated whether I wanted to penetrate the outer fiberglass roof. I deemed that my carriage bolt is no greater risk than the plethora of pop rivets used to support the original cabinetry by the factory. I removed all of those original pop rivets and permanently sealed their holes so I think my small number of penetrations I have now is at least as water tight if not much greater than the original. It has now been over four years and no leaks have developed.
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