My Broken Back 16ft. Casita - Page 16 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 02-25-2019, 04:44 PM   #211
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 283
Rethinking my last post. The size of the angle iron used is actually 3/16", 3"X3". Each piece was 3" long. Sorry for the misinformation. I was on the road when I made the reply and recalled those numbers from memory. My memory ain't what it once was
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:12 PM   #212
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Name: David
Trailer: Casita
Arkansas
Posts: 15
Thanks for the reply! Depending on which floor covering the wife chooses, I could be going back with 1/2" or moving up to 5/8". The 1/2" ply would be too thin for any kind of countersink. It's good to know that 10 bolts will hold it all together instead of the seemingly endless number of self tappers I'm dealing with now.

Thanks again for your input!!
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:04 PM   #213
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 283
I used 5/8 T&G. I feel a little sag in the floor between the cross members as I walk across it so I wouldn't recommend 1/2". I installed the T&G so that I didn't have to worry about making my joint over a cross or framing member below the floor. In a lot of the projects that I read about in these pages, folks coated the underside and ends of the plywood with epoxy. I did not due to cost. Instead, I used 2 coats of spar marine varnish on the underside and the ends. I brushed the varnish lavishly on the T&G joints just before I drove them together during installation. Since it will see no sunlight to break it down, I hope the varnish will protect the wood nearly as long as epoxy. We will see.
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:58 PM   #214
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Name: Eric
Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
Illinois
Posts: 450
When I had the frame in the trailer shop for frame strengthening and axle replacement, I also had the weld in the corners of the frame six places for me to put bolts. They also are in the cabinets so they are not seen. I used 3/8" bolts with large washers on top and bottom, and bolts that have the insert to keep them from coming loose. I have checked them several times and they have stayed tight. I also took them off once, when I needed to put in the grey water tank, and noticed the first time I mounted the shell, I didn't get it pushed all the way back, so got it aligned correctly the second time. That meant I had a set of holes that needed filled, so did that from the top, with foil tape on the underside to hold the rosin. One think I noticed is that the frame does flex a little more since there are not as many points of contact. But I feel better being able to take it off and on, and do things to the frame as a move along with changes.
My goal is also to have something that camps well, and in the way we want to use it. Changes as we work with it are important.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:10 PM   #215
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 283
Come to think of it, I used 3/8 bolts too. My memory was pretty fickle this morning.
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:10 PM   #216
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Name: David
Trailer: Casita
Arkansas
Posts: 15
Michael, I appreciate the responses from both you and Eric. 10 bolts, 6 bolts... I may be somewhere in between. This one has a grey water tank already installed, so that won't be a reason to remove the shell in the future. Of course, there may be something else that comes up, but I have NO intention of enjoying this experience again. If it happens, rest assured I was forced into it.

The T&G 5/8" ply sounds like a pretty good idea to me, and I'm thinking of having a center brace welded in between the frame cross members (right down the waking space) to stop any subfloor flexing. Even though that portion of my floor was not damaged, it certainly felt as though it was, and was one reasons I pushed on the point that I am.

Uhhhh, what's a "memory"?
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:31 PM   #217
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 283
Accoeding to my doc, I am supposed to be getting a cpap machine any day. Hopefully that will help my memory issues. Of course, that will create my next project which will be to install enough solar power and battery storage to power the thing reliably off grid. Based on the Youtube videos I have been watching that should be doable.
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:31 PM   #218
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Name: Eric
Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
Illinois
Posts: 450
Mike,
Haven't been on in a while, but noticed the CPAP comment. Mine works well with the solar. They really don't take a lot of power, it is really just a small fan, controlled to up the air pressure to whatever number you need. It will also stop the snoring. When we camped out of the car I could run it all night on the car battery and never even worried about the battery being lower in the morning. I also got a 12V cord from the company but they sent the wrong one and I never did use that.
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:16 PM   #219
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
Posts: 283
Hi Eric,
It's good to hear from you again. It is serendipitous that you replied regarding the CPAP because I just did my first test run my Phillips Dreamstation machine on directly from 12vdc today. It purred like a kitten. I got the Phillips brand cord for running directly off of 12vdc for about $35 from an online CPAP dealer. From what I have read, if you don't use the humidifier and run directly on 12v eliminating the inverter loss, the machine will draw less than half an amp. I haven't bought a solar panel yet but we use so little power in our trailer, I can keep up with the battery pretty well while it is hooked up to the tow while traveling based on our average maximum of 3 day stays in one location. I also have one f those power stations with a Li-ion battery that should run the machine for 5 days according to what I have learned watching youtube.

Mike
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