My Broken Back 16ft. Casita - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 11-28-2017, 06:11 PM   #43
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
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Lousy pic I know but it is the only pick I have of the "before" the jacking started.
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:30 PM   #44
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Ouch. That's an intimidating greeting for the half-hearted isn't it?
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:37 PM   #45
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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yes!!!!!

pretty darn slick

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Old 12-02-2017, 05:25 PM   #46
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
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I got the new floor in today in the lower section. I went with 5/8 T&G plywood. I coated the edges and bottom side with marine spar varnish. Just before I plugged the T&G joints together I painted a coat of varnish before I drove I drove her home. I figured the varnish will act as an adhesive to make the sheets work together. I hit the edges along the door and the vents an extra time with the varnish to give her a little extra protection. I plan to attach a little fiberglass lip at about 45 degrees and an 1 1/2 high on the body inside of the vent to help catch any water than might make its way through the louvers. I may post a picture later after I get the loose ends all buttoned down.

From the stains in the old flooring, it looks like the front and back windows are leaking. Will take them out to reseal them. Do any of you have any advice on what sealer works best?
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:32 AM   #47
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Name: Eric
Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
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I took out the A/C in the back window and put in all lexan. Used the rubber to s3eal in the lexan, and butyl caulk to seal it up. But I haven't had it in the rain yet, so can't say about leaks. I also used a 1/2" piece of aluminum and used bolt/nut (3/4" #6) so that I could tighten it if needed. The FG holes were really close to the edge, and I wanted to make sure they wouldn't create issues. I'll post how it works when I get in weather that lets me know.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:46 AM   #48
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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mike looking at your striker does your latch close centered on it?


thanks


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Old 12-04-2017, 09:06 AM   #49
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
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Thanks guys for your replies.

On the subject of the AC in the window, I will likely follow your lead Eric. Are the windows set up similar to fixed windows in the automobile applications the the body has a flange and the rubber seal slips between the flange and the window?

Bob,

I think the latch is hitting the striker pretty close to center. The problem with the door is that:

a) the door latch body is hitting striker as it closes.

b) currently the door has more curve than the body do it is engaging the top and bottom before the center, which is where the latch is.

I think the answer to (a) is to wait until the bulkhead goes in next to the door and then adjust either the curve of the wall, or the door to match. My number one hunch is that the body is currently still jacked up too high causing the sides to flatten. Because when I bought the trailer, t body was distorted by lack of support and the original closets or other bulkheads are missing, I don't have an original shape to pattern from. There is a homemade wooden bulkhead piece that came in the trailer (you can see it in the pic of the bulging body) but I have no faith that this piece actually was taken from an original pattern piece and this is the correct shape. Time will tell.

My theory for (b) is that even though I can't see back and forth movement when I lift and release the door, I think the pin of the top hinge is loose which is allowing the door to sag at the top hinge. I think the answer is going up a size on the pin and drilling out the hinge to match.

Yesterday I started replacing the rotted OSB wood stiffeners in the fiberglass seat body at the rear bed area of the trailer. I am using leftover 5/8 plywood from the floor replacement. I got one side completely finished yesterday and the other side is halfway done.

I still must replace all of the screws through the floor to the crossmembers in the chassis.

I will try to get a few photos today.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:12 AM   #50
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Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
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I don't know if all the screws are necessary, they may have been more about trying to get the wood to bond to the FG. Just a guess. I am thinking about using a couple of bolts front and back, and adding welded flanges on the frame so that the bolts (and a steel backing plate in the closets) will be the things that hold it to the frame. I know that there are a number of FG campers that are held on this way, and I think I may be taking it off the frame several more times during the next 10 years. I am putting a larger grey tank in, and if it gets hit by stuff on the road, it might crack and I'll have to change it. Since the frame is getting a new axle, I thought now would be the time.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:13 AM   #51
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One other thought on the door. I think a little tightness in the middle might be good, it would certainly help make the seal better all the way around the door.
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:01 PM   #52
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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reason

mike reason why I asked is my 13f scamper I look at the door latch after it closes and it is hitting the striker quite a bit off center down low matter of fact.

I look at the door and it is adusted about right some gap at the bottom I don't think I am going to mess with anything yet I do have the rebuilding kit from ian but not yet.

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Old 12-04-2017, 05:47 PM   #53
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
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Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
mike reason why I asked is my 13f scamper I look at the door latch after it closes and it is hitting the striker quite a bit off center down low matter of fact.

I look at the door and it is adusted about right some gap at the bottom I don't think I am going to mess with anything yet I do have the rebuilding kit from ian but not yet.

bob
Bob, If your door is well centered but the strike is off center, my money is that is probably how it was installed originally. And as my dad used to say, "why fix something that ain't broke?"


I made great progress on my door today. I now have the door closing easily and firmly against the rubber seal. Here are the details

I didn't like how far the strike extended past the trim. It doesn't look right for one and the fact that my latch is hitting it isn't right. I can't find any back and forth in the door hinge so I think the pin is tight. I decided to remove the strike to see what was going on underneath. This pic shows the strike location as was installed.


When I removed the strike, I saw that there were another set of holes that were wallowed out too much. Someone had slid the strike and drilled new holes to find firm material. I drilled new holes into the strike plate that were as far away as from the original two sets of holes as possible and after drilling corresponding holes in the body, reinstalled the strike plate with the edge flush to the trim.



Here is a view from the inside. Note that have begun to reinstall the bulkhead that had been started by the PO.



The last shot shows my new floor. Note that I still have props in place to support the roof. I have backed off the pressure on the ceiling to let the body settle a little bit to allow enough curve in the body that looks right. I am just doing this by eye since took over someone else's mess, I don't have original dimensions to go by. I am happy to report that my wheel boxes have straightened up quite a bit. No doubt that having her strung so tight on the jacking posts for the past week and a half was a success.

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Old 12-04-2017, 09:03 PM   #54
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Name: John Michael
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Madison, Wisconsin
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If I were to replace a floor in a FGRV I would definitely use plywood, preferably marine grade. I believe plywood is much more resistant to water and rot than OSB. It also holds fasteners better. Lastly its lighter weight than OSB so you can replace ⅝ OSB with inch plywood and have more strength, rigidity with same approximate weight.

If you prevent leaks from above from happening either material will last for decades. Floors do not rot from road spray, but from leaky plumbing, windows, vents, etc.

John

Pic while camping at Arches National Park (I think)
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:20 PM   #55
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
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Originally Posted by EricAllyn View Post
Just a guess. I am thinking about using a couple of bolts front and back, and adding welded flanges on the frame so that the bolts (and a steel backing plate in the closets) will be the things that hold it to the frame.
I was thinking about that too. One of the PO's drilled two holes all of the way through the front crossmember to install two, 5/16" bolts which I think is OK. But here is the kicker, they also drilled holes all of the way through the main frame rails in that location to install long 5/16 bolts all of the way through the rails. That doesn't leave a lot of meat in the rails given their small width which I think weakens the frame laterally in a critical location; near the tongue. I really don't want to pull the body off to weld batch plates on the top side. Since the weakness induced by drilling these holes is laterally, welding a 3-4" long flange spanning across that location, would strengthen it. While you are down there with the welder in hand, you could also weld a patch plate over the hole at the bottom of the rail too.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:04 PM   #56
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Casita 16ft.
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Linck View Post
If I were to replace a floor in a FGRV I would definitely use plywood, preferably marine grade. I believe plywood is much more resistant to water and rot than OSB. It also holds fasteners better. Lastly its lighter weight than OSB so you can replace ⅝ OSB with inch plywood and have more strength, rigidity with same approximate weight.

If you prevent leaks from above from happening either material will last for decades. Floors do not rot from road spray, but from leaky plumbing, windows, vents, etc.

John

Pic while camping at Arches National Park (I think)
I agree with you regarding plywood. I think it is a superior product to OSB. Marine plywood isn't in my budget on this go around. I went with a common T&G subfloor product. I didn't take this trailer apart so am getting acquainted with the attachment methods as I fit things back in. I can see that they are pretty simple. Being simple means that I can take it apart later easily if I don't bury the flooring under glued down carpet or linoleum. As mentioned before I painted the edges and the bottom of the plywood with spar varnish. I think I will sand the top and do the same there and just leave it as is. Indoor/outdoor carpet runners or some easily removable laminate type flooring might finish her off. Ease of repair and easy to see a problem is the goal. I guess the word minimalist would be applicable.
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